Review Lowered '10 G37x (AWD) Coupe
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Lowered '10 G37x (AWD) Coupe
Hey Everyone. So before I dropped and choose wheel fitment I searched this forum thoroughly and couldn't find much useful info for x's out there.
Just thought I would share this to help others looking for some info.
Lowered on Eibach Prokit
The drop achieved is pretty significant and still OK for winter driving. I think, haven't drove on em through the winter yet. It's obviously a little more stiff than stock and you can definitely feel the road more, being almost 1.5-2" closer to the ground. Way less roll on turns, like off ramps on the highway. The handling has improved 10 fold. No joke.
Wheel Fitment and Tires
I chose the Vossen CV1 wheels in matte graphite and Hankook v12 tires
20x9+32 245/35 Front
20*10.5 +42 285/30 Rears
I didn't have to disconnect the AWD system for those who are curious. If you go online and find a wheel diameter calculator the rolling diameter of both front and rear are within 3% of each other and both within 3% of the stock rolling diameter therefore it does not mess with your AWD system.
I do not have the camber kit and found out after that I probably should have purchased it for the rear (at least). My front camber is maxed out at about -1.6 and rear is about -2.6. The alignment shop suggested that I get the rear kit at least or my tires are gonna wear out quickly. I am looking to get the rear kit asap. After speaking with a few people they all insist that this amount of camber is still OK, but with soft summer tires I don't really want to risk wearing them out quickly and I am also going to buy new winter tires and want those to last as well.
These wheels are a bit heavy and I noticed that my power from start is not as good as with the stock wheels. I'm not a race car driver, although sometimes I behave like I am, soo its still OK for daily driver. If I had to choose again, I would probably go with lighter wheels. Don't get me wrong, it still looks sexy... hehehe but looks aren't everything are they??
Hope that info is helpful for some of you that are looking for guidance before lowering your AWD coupe.
Feel free to leave your questions/comments.
Some after photos....
Just thought I would share this to help others looking for some info.
Lowered on Eibach Prokit
The drop achieved is pretty significant and still OK for winter driving. I think, haven't drove on em through the winter yet. It's obviously a little more stiff than stock and you can definitely feel the road more, being almost 1.5-2" closer to the ground. Way less roll on turns, like off ramps on the highway. The handling has improved 10 fold. No joke.
Wheel Fitment and Tires
I chose the Vossen CV1 wheels in matte graphite and Hankook v12 tires
20x9+32 245/35 Front
20*10.5 +42 285/30 Rears
I didn't have to disconnect the AWD system for those who are curious. If you go online and find a wheel diameter calculator the rolling diameter of both front and rear are within 3% of each other and both within 3% of the stock rolling diameter therefore it does not mess with your AWD system.
I do not have the camber kit and found out after that I probably should have purchased it for the rear (at least). My front camber is maxed out at about -1.6 and rear is about -2.6. The alignment shop suggested that I get the rear kit at least or my tires are gonna wear out quickly. I am looking to get the rear kit asap. After speaking with a few people they all insist that this amount of camber is still OK, but with soft summer tires I don't really want to risk wearing them out quickly and I am also going to buy new winter tires and want those to last as well.
These wheels are a bit heavy and I noticed that my power from start is not as good as with the stock wheels. I'm not a race car driver, although sometimes I behave like I am, soo its still OK for daily driver. If I had to choose again, I would probably go with lighter wheels. Don't get me wrong, it still looks sexy... hehehe but looks aren't everything are they??
Hope that info is helpful for some of you that are looking for guidance before lowering your AWD coupe.
Feel free to leave your questions/comments.
Some after photos....
#2
I have a question y would your tires wear out is it because you drop with springs?? I have 37x coupe also and we have winter here more then summer. Another question what if I lower it with coilover does that mean I wont need camber kit?
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Camber kit can be required to correct the -ve camber and bring the wheel closer to straight. If you have excessive -ve or +ve camber this can wear the tires unevenly. Imagine its on an angle so one part of the tire is taking more weight/force and will wear faster. Mine isn't too bad as stated above. I've heard many saying that the -ve camber will not really affect my tires much and its more related to the toe. I'm not convinced about that. In any case you want to adjust your toe closest to 0 as possible. I'd recommend waiting about 1-2 months after lowering to allow the springs/coils to settle before going for your alignment.
I don't know the answer to your question about the camber kit with coil overs. That shouldn't matter if you're AWD or not, so do a search about camber kits on the forum and see what you find.
I don't know the answer to your question about the camber kit with coil overs. That shouldn't matter if you're AWD or not, so do a search about camber kits on the forum and see what you find.
#4
Also you said you get winter there right. What do you do then when winter come? I'm pretty sure you put the 20" away and put your original back on. Will there be a issue since is low or you just drive it lower like that is okay?
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
I don't forsee any issue being low in the winter. I'm not slammed. The ride height if you can see in the pics still is about .5" wheel gap in front and rear.
Thanks buddy!!! Let's be friends lol
Last edited by Sinfiniti; 08-26-2013 at 09:53 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Coupe looks great, nice wheel choice and the drop looks real good and something that you can ;live with much easier on a daily basis. Regarding your camber, you will need to address the rear for sure, the front at -1.6 will be OK but only if your toe is in (which I assume it is, both F&R). If your camber was at -2 or better you could probably get by w/ regular tire rotations and no rear kit, but at -2.6 you'll get noticeable inner tread wear
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Coupe looks great, nice wheel choice and the drop looks real good and something that you can ;live with much easier on a daily basis. Regarding your camber, you will need to address the rear for sure, the front at -1.6 will be OK but only if your toe is in (which I assume it is, both F&R). If your camber was at -2 or better you could probably get by w/ regular tire rotations and no rear kit, but at -2.6 you'll get noticeable inner tread wear
Is this a good price from Tire Rack (Eibach part #5.72280K, $155 for rear arms + Eibach part 5.72265K, $55 rear bolts)? Since I'm in Canada, I'll need to buy local to avoid huge shipping and duty fees but I want to know the basic price.
After about how many km's/miles do you actually start to see the wear on the tires. I think I've only put about 2500 kms on since I got these tires.
Toe was close to 0, but I can't recall exactly at this time. Is 'toe in' +ve or -ve toe? Also, I wish I could rotate, but I'm staggered fitment with directional tires. Now I will I bought non-directional
The following users liked this post:
Sinfiniti (08-26-2013)
The following users liked this post:
farmurr (08-27-2013)
#12
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Thanks so much for the info! I suppose I need to get on it and order that rear kit!
Is this a good price from Tire Rack (Eibach part #5.72280K, $155 for rear arms + Eibach part 5.72265K, $55 rear bolts)? Since I'm in Canada, I'll need to buy local to avoid huge shipping and duty fees but I want to know the basic price.
After about how many km's/miles do you actually start to see the wear on the tires. I think I've only put about 2500 kms on since I got these tires.
Toe was close to 0, but I can't recall exactly at this time. Is 'toe in' +ve or -ve toe? Also, I wish I could rotate, but I'm staggered fitment with directional tires. Now I will I bought non-directional
Is this a good price from Tire Rack (Eibach part #5.72280K, $155 for rear arms + Eibach part 5.72265K, $55 rear bolts)? Since I'm in Canada, I'll need to buy local to avoid huge shipping and duty fees but I want to know the basic price.
After about how many km's/miles do you actually start to see the wear on the tires. I think I've only put about 2500 kms on since I got these tires.
Toe was close to 0, but I can't recall exactly at this time. Is 'toe in' +ve or -ve toe? Also, I wish I could rotate, but I'm staggered fitment with directional tires. Now I will I bought non-directional
The following users liked this post:
Sinfiniti (10-08-2013)
#13
I run 2.4 neg rear camber, I have 20k km on supersports no uneven wear. Its not the camber arms that are going to kill your tires its the toe-in. You can safely run 2.6 without wearing anything as long as you get toe arms instead.
#14
Registered Member
Yes, I live in Toronto, Canada area (GTA) so we definitely have snow. I am going to use the stock wheels and buy winter tires for them, although its probably overkill for an AWD. I was in love with my Toyo Garit kx winter tires on my old car so I will probably get those again.
I don't forsee any issue being low in the winter. I'm not slammed. The ride height if you can see in the pics still is about .5" wheel gap in front and rear.
I don't forsee any issue being low in the winter. I'm not slammed. The ride height if you can see in the pics still is about .5" wheel gap in front and rear.
People seem to ignore or forget that Stopping is often more important than getting the car rolling.
I had an X, four years (07 to 11). One winter with AS tires (mistake) and three winters with Snow tires. The driving control experience is twice as good and the stopping even more-so.
Being lowered 1.5-2" (like myself) you will not find it easy to plow through 5-6" of snow with slightly worn AS tires. With Snow tires you'll get through 8-10" of fresh snow. I can now, with RWD.
#15
Registered User
This is what happens when the rear camber is compromised by lowering and you don't correct it...driving in the left lane of the 407 doing a little over the limit.
Worst thing is, I was losing traction even when changing lanes at speed, and In thought it was lack of air in the tires...
Next spring, I am DEFINITELY investing in a camber kit!!
Worst thing is, I was losing traction even when changing lanes at speed, and In thought it was lack of air in the tires...
Next spring, I am DEFINITELY investing in a camber kit!!