The OFFICIAL "I have a wheel offset / tire fitment question!" thread
09-10-2014, 01:55 PM
#376
The main obstacle is the stretched rear tire, having the tire stretched will change the diameter compared to a standard mount and determining the adjusted diameter is hard to do without actually buying the tires and
running them. A variance over 1% from your front tires will most likely cause issues w/ your AWD system. Running a square setup is easier, and you can see a few setups over in this thread that are still quite aggressive
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...post-here.html
running them. A variance over 1% from your front tires will most likely cause issues w/ your AWD system. Running a square setup is easier, and you can see a few setups over in this thread that are still quite aggressive
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...post-here.html
Thank again for the all the help & info
09-11-2014, 12:22 AM
#377
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So I came across this article about the Q50 "Performance Wheel Package." Basically Infiniti has packaged a wheel and tire setup with the following specs: 19x9 all around with
(2) Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 245/40R19 94Y Max Performance front tires, (2) Bridgestone REO50A 265/35R19 94W Max Performance rear tires, and the updated tire pressure placard.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/performan...s-t587721.html
My question is: Do you think this means that engineers have found that this is the optimal setup for the Q50? (Along with the abs control re-tune...) Or would you guys have reason to think that the marketing guys just slapped a wheel and tire package together to sell more products?
I would imagine that the same would apply to our G sedans despite the minimal platform differences.
(2) Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 245/40R19 94Y Max Performance front tires, (2) Bridgestone REO50A 265/35R19 94W Max Performance rear tires, and the updated tire pressure placard.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/performan...s-t587721.html
My question is: Do you think this means that engineers have found that this is the optimal setup for the Q50? (Along with the abs control re-tune...) Or would you guys have reason to think that the marketing guys just slapped a wheel and tire package together to sell more products?
I would imagine that the same would apply to our G sedans despite the minimal platform differences.
09-16-2014, 09:14 AM
#378
So I came across this article about the Q50 "Performance Wheel Package." Basically Infiniti has packaged a wheel and tire setup with the following specs: 19x9 all around with
(2) Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 245/40R19 94Y Max Performance front tires, (2) Bridgestone REO50A 265/35R19 94W Max Performance rear tires, and the updated tire pressure placard.
Performance Wheel Package for the All-New Infiniti Q50S : Infiniti Q50 / Q60 Forum
My question is: Do you think this means that engineers have found that this is the optimal setup for the Q50? (Along with the abs control re-tune...) Or would you guys have reason to think that the marketing guys just slapped a wheel and tire package together to sell more products?
I would imagine that the same would apply to our G sedans despite the minimal platform differences.
(2) Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 245/40R19 94Y Max Performance front tires, (2) Bridgestone REO50A 265/35R19 94W Max Performance rear tires, and the updated tire pressure placard.
Performance Wheel Package for the All-New Infiniti Q50S : Infiniti Q50 / Q60 Forum
My question is: Do you think this means that engineers have found that this is the optimal setup for the Q50? (Along with the abs control re-tune...) Or would you guys have reason to think that the marketing guys just slapped a wheel and tire package together to sell more products?
I would imagine that the same would apply to our G sedans despite the minimal platform differences.
I'm sure the driving force behind this is to generate some buzz for a vehicle that hasn't been very well received
09-16-2014, 09:51 AM
#379
Registered User
What is optimal setup? For daily driving, for racing? I think this is mostly a marketing to allow customer to get a "performance" wheel package from the factory. Any quality wheel from a 3rd party manufacturer will be just as good, if not better than their wheel.
A quality forged wheel will definitely reduce rotating weight like BLNewt posted. Im not sure I fall for the whole engineering bit. I will keep using aftermarket wheels with the proper fitments over what the factory provides
A quality forged wheel will definitely reduce rotating weight like BLNewt posted. Im not sure I fall for the whole engineering bit. I will keep using aftermarket wheels with the proper fitments over what the factory provides
09-16-2014, 01:25 PM
#380
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Thanks the for the responses!
I guess I may have worded my question wrong. I was primarily concerned about the tire and wheel size from the performance perspective.
I've read that people like to run 245\275 wide tires on their 19 inch wheels but I was wondering why infiniti would decide to package these sizes together.
I'm mostly just asking since I have a square set of 19x9 wheels coming soon and want to figure out a nice tire size...
I guess I may have worded my question wrong. I was primarily concerned about the tire and wheel size from the performance perspective.
I've read that people like to run 245\275 wide tires on their 19 inch wheels but I was wondering why infiniti would decide to package these sizes together.
I'm mostly just asking since I have a square set of 19x9 wheels coming soon and want to figure out a nice tire size...
09-16-2014, 04:20 PM
#381
Registered User
I've been searching for this answer for two days, so forgive me if this is common knowledge. But do you guys know if the fronts or rears "poke" out more? What I mean is, if you put the same wheel width and offset on the front and rear, which one will be sticking out more, and by how much?
The reason I'm asking is because I'm going to be getting wheels for my G37S sedan 6MT (that I just bought), and I want it to be as flush as possible. But I also want the front and rear poke (or lack of it) to be the same. I can use the calculator just fine (great idea by the way), I just need to know what the difference is (if any).
Lastly, I'd like to try 19's and possibly 20's without lowering the vehicle (I know it's unpopular but I've had lowered cars and it's a PITA with driveways and bumps/potholes). Without any camber, what is the best offset to be flush with the wheel wells, but not rub? And I'm just talking about the wheel itself, I realize that the tire width plays a big role. For arguments sake, let's assume 9 inch front and 10.5 inch rear.
The reason I'm asking is because I'm going to be getting wheels for my G37S sedan 6MT (that I just bought), and I want it to be as flush as possible. But I also want the front and rear poke (or lack of it) to be the same. I can use the calculator just fine (great idea by the way), I just need to know what the difference is (if any).
Lastly, I'd like to try 19's and possibly 20's without lowering the vehicle (I know it's unpopular but I've had lowered cars and it's a PITA with driveways and bumps/potholes). Without any camber, what is the best offset to be flush with the wheel wells, but not rub? And I'm just talking about the wheel itself, I realize that the tire width plays a big role. For arguments sake, let's assume 9 inch front and 10.5 inch rear.
Last edited by Furlow; 09-16-2014 at 04:21 PM. Reason: *width not diameter
09-16-2014, 04:39 PM
#382
Registered User
I've been searching for this answer for two days, so forgive me if this is common knowledge. But do you guys know if the fronts or rears "poke" out more? What I mean is, if you put the same wheel width and offset on the front and rear, which one will be sticking out more, and by how much?
The reason I'm asking is because I'm going to be getting wheels for my G37S sedan 6MT (that I just bought), and I want it to be as flush as possible. But I also want the front and rear poke (or lack of it) to be the same. I can use the calculator just fine (great idea by the way), I just need to know what the difference is (if any).
Lastly, I'd like to try 19's and possibly 20's without lowering the vehicle (I know it's unpopular but I've had lowered cars and it's a PITA with driveways and bumps/potholes). Without any camber, what is the best offset to be flush with the wheel wells, but not rub? And I'm just talking about the wheel itself, I realize that the tire width plays a big role. For arguments sake, let's assume 9 inch front and 10.5 inch rear.
The reason I'm asking is because I'm going to be getting wheels for my G37S sedan 6MT (that I just bought), and I want it to be as flush as possible. But I also want the front and rear poke (or lack of it) to be the same. I can use the calculator just fine (great idea by the way), I just need to know what the difference is (if any).
Lastly, I'd like to try 19's and possibly 20's without lowering the vehicle (I know it's unpopular but I've had lowered cars and it's a PITA with driveways and bumps/potholes). Without any camber, what is the best offset to be flush with the wheel wells, but not rub? And I'm just talking about the wheel itself, I realize that the tire width plays a big role. For arguments sake, let's assume 9 inch front and 10.5 inch rear.
Regarding which is going to stick out further depends on each vehicle. With the sedan, a 9.5" with +28 offset would stick out 2mm further than a 10.5 +45 would in the rear. The +28 offset is moving the wheel further out even though the 10.5 is a wider wheel. So a wheel that was 9.5" and +28 would stick further out in the rear than the front. Just the way the car is designed.
To have the flush look, I think the "safe" route in a 9.5" +35 for the front and a 10.5 +45 for the rear. These offset seems to be safe from what I have seen here. The front offset may be right but maybe someone else can verify.
09-16-2014, 05:48 PM
#383
Registered User
"Poke" comes from a combination of offset and wheel width. The lower the offset the farther the wheel is going to be (or past) the fender. These two variables go hand-in-hand.
Regarding which is going to stick out further depends on each vehicle. With the sedan, a 9.5" with +28 offset would stick out 2mm further than a 10.5 +45 would in the rear. The +28 offset is moving the wheel further out even though the 10.5 is a wider wheel. So a wheel that was 9.5" and +28 would stick further out in the rear than the front. Just the way the car is designed.
To have the flush look, I think the "safe" route in a 9.5" +35 for the front and a 10.5 +45 for the rear. These offset seems to be safe from what I have seen here. The front offset may be right but maybe someone else can verify.
Regarding which is going to stick out further depends on each vehicle. With the sedan, a 9.5" with +28 offset would stick out 2mm further than a 10.5 +45 would in the rear. The +28 offset is moving the wheel further out even though the 10.5 is a wider wheel. So a wheel that was 9.5" and +28 would stick further out in the rear than the front. Just the way the car is designed.
To have the flush look, I think the "safe" route in a 9.5" +35 for the front and a 10.5 +45 for the rear. These offset seems to be safe from what I have seen here. The front offset may be right but maybe someone else can verify.
I've heard a few times that the width and offset that you're recommending is best for a flush look. But I feel like every time I see that set up on here, the wheels are poking out from the fender (at least the rears). Only when the vehicle is lowered does it bring the top of the tire flush with the fender, but that's because there is negative camber.
Since my goal is 19's or 20's without lowering (no camber), I'm worried that the 10.5 +45 will have a bit too much poke.
09-16-2014, 05:58 PM
#384
Registered User
With calculator then, that difference is the rears poking out 6 mm more, so can I safely assume that is the difference between the front/rear? In your example, you gave a 9.5 wheel with +28 offset. Let's just say I put those on all 4 corners - you're saying the rears would poke out more? And if so, by how much?
I've heard a few times that the width and offset that you're recommending is best for a flush look. But I feel like every time I see that set up on here, the wheels are poking out from the fender (at least the rears). Only when the vehicle is lowered does it bring the top of the tire flush with the fender, but that's because there is negative camber.
Since my goal is 19's or 20's without lowering (no camber), I'm worried that the 10.5 +45 will have a bit too much poke.
I've heard a few times that the width and offset that you're recommending is best for a flush look. But I feel like every time I see that set up on here, the wheels are poking out from the fender (at least the rears). Only when the vehicle is lowered does it bring the top of the tire flush with the fender, but that's because there is negative camber.
Since my goal is 19's or 20's without lowering (no camber), I'm worried that the 10.5 +45 will have a bit too much poke.
When I do the calculation between the 10.5 +45 and the 9.5 +28 it shows that the 9.5 +28 would stick out 2mm further than the 10.5 +45. Now will this be past the fender? In this scenario, most likely. This is only true since I know the 10.5 +45 is pretty much as flush (in the rears on a sedan) as you can get without and rubbing or clearance issues.
Will this always be the case? It will depend on the wheel specs. Are you looking to have "poke" when you are finished? I would recommend against it if you are. Poke will quickly ruin a set of tires on bad roads of it the car gets loaded down.
I hope I didnt missed something from an earlier post. Like I said, Ive been at work for too long.
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Furlow (09-16-2014)
09-16-2014, 07:36 PM
#385
With calculator then, that difference is the rears poking out 6 mm more, so can I safely assume that is the difference between the front/rear? In your example, you gave a 9.5 wheel with +28 offset. Let's just say I put those on all 4 corners - you're saying the rears would poke out more? And if so, by how much?
I've heard a few times that the width and offset that you're recommending is best for a flush look. But I feel like every time I see that set up on here, the wheels are poking out from the fender (at least the rears). Only when the vehicle is lowered does it bring the top of the tire flush with the fender, but that's because there is negative camber.
Since my goal is 19's or 20's without lowering (no camber), I'm worried that the 10.5 +45 will have a bit too much poke.
I've heard a few times that the width and offset that you're recommending is best for a flush look. But I feel like every time I see that set up on here, the wheels are poking out from the fender (at least the rears). Only when the vehicle is lowered does it bring the top of the tire flush with the fender, but that's because there is negative camber.
Since my goal is 19's or 20's without lowering (no camber), I'm worried that the 10.5 +45 will have a bit too much poke.
You can surely run a bit more aggressive especially if you may eventually lower your G, but the 9"+35/10"+45 would allow a bit more room for error, and definitely won't poke.
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Furlow (09-16-2014)
09-16-2014, 11:31 PM
#386
Registered User
Are the wheels you're interested in available in 10" widths? My 20x10" +45s are a nice flush fit w/out any poke and I'm running 295s with under 1 degree of neg camber, so I think without a drop that may be a better option and run up to 285s (I think the 295s would poke a couple mm at stock height. I have 8.5" +40 in front, but since I'm dropped to zero gap I wanted my fronts inside the fenders a bit more since the front fender edges aren't flat-rolled like the back. I think a staggered 9" +35 w/ 245s and a 10" +45 running 275 or 285 width would be a pretty well matched setup. Also be sure to check for adequate clearance for your big front brake calipers.
You can surely run a bit more aggressive especially if you may eventually lower your G, but the 9"+35/10"+45 would allow a bit more room for error, and definitely won't poke.
You can surely run a bit more aggressive especially if you may eventually lower your G, but the 9"+35/10"+45 would allow a bit more room for error, and definitely won't poke.
Your answer is what I'm looking for, and about what I figured. I know that 10.5" rear +45 is flush with a drop and about 1 degree of negative camber. I can probably live with that, but only if I eventually drop it (who am I kidding I'm sure I will).
On my last car (2004 Accord Coupe) I ran very aggressive offsets for the drop (Eibach/Koni) and camber (none) that I had. No rub issues, but the wheels and tires were dead flush with the body and it looked great. That's what I'm shooting for here. Except I'd like to not have to go through 5 different sets of wheels to get there like I did with my Accord haha.
I really appreciate the responses, fellas. Once I figure out what I'm going to do I'll be sure to post some pictures in the "show off your sedans" thread. I got the moonlight white, and I'm planning to do tint, blacked out trim, vinyl grill and rear diffuser area, Stillen G2 intake, and Tanabe axle back exhaust. Just need to figure out the wheels and whether or not I'm going to lower it. If I do I'm leaning towards the Swift/Koni combo as there seems to be a lot of positive reviews with that setup. Plus it'll probably a familiar ride for me since I had something similar on my Accord.
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Furlow (09-17-2014)
09-17-2014, 08:43 AM
#388
Bravo's Tire/Wheel Build Final Two Picks. I have a 2008 G37, Coupe, Journey on an OEM set-up now. I'm down to these two picks from my original 32 picks.
1) Gram Light 57xtreme's
Matte Graphite
19x9.5 +35 255/40 R19
19x10.5 +35 285/35 R19
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Drop: Swift Sport Springs
2) Rennen CSL-2
Chome Lip, Hyper Silver Finish
19x8.5 +20 245/40 R19
20x10 +30 275/35 R20
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Drop: Swift Sport Springs
I am open to any all fitment suggestions to bring me to a flush look, with correct drop, and tire sizing opinions/recommendations. I was going to do a poll but I wouldn't gain knowledge like with a discussion. Trying to get my G set before possibly going back down range. ~Dan.
1) Gram Light 57xtreme's
Matte Graphite
19x9.5 +35 255/40 R19
19x10.5 +35 285/35 R19
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Drop: Swift Sport Springs
2) Rennen CSL-2
Chome Lip, Hyper Silver Finish
19x8.5 +20 245/40 R19
20x10 +30 275/35 R20
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Drop: Swift Sport Springs
I am open to any all fitment suggestions to bring me to a flush look, with correct drop, and tire sizing opinions/recommendations. I was going to do a poll but I wouldn't gain knowledge like with a discussion. Trying to get my G set before possibly going back down range. ~Dan.
Last edited by Bravo at; 09-17-2014 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Change tire size from 245/275 to 255/285
09-17-2014, 02:29 PM
#389
Bravo's Tire/Wheel Build Final Two Picks. I have a 2008 G37, Coupe, Journey on an OEM set-up now. I'm down to these two picks from my original 32 picks.
1) Gram Light 57xtreme's
Matte Graphite
19x9.5 +35 245/40 R19
19x10.5 +35 275/35 R19
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Drop: Swift Sport Springs
2) Rennen CSL-2
Chome Lip, Hyper Silver Finish
19x8.5 +20 245/40 R19
20x10 +30 275/35 R19
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Drop: Swift Sport Springs
I am open to any all fitment suggestions to bring me to a flush look, with correct drop, and tire sizing opinions/recommendations. I was going to do a poll but I wouldn't gain knowledge like with a discussion. Trying to get my G set before possibly going back down range. ~Dan.
1) Gram Light 57xtreme's
Matte Graphite
19x9.5 +35 245/40 R19
19x10.5 +35 275/35 R19
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Drop: Swift Sport Springs
2) Rennen CSL-2
Chome Lip, Hyper Silver Finish
19x8.5 +20 245/40 R19
20x10 +30 275/35 R19
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Drop: Swift Sport Springs
I am open to any all fitment suggestions to bring me to a flush look, with correct drop, and tire sizing opinions/recommendations. I was going to do a poll but I wouldn't gain knowledge like with a discussion. Trying to get my G set before possibly going back down range. ~Dan.
09-17-2014, 06:42 PM
#390
Drop: Swift Sport Springs; Front: -1.3" and Rear: -1.0".
Last edited by Bravo at; 09-17-2014 at 06:46 PM. Reason: Added drop measurements.