Taking apart Volks. Torque Pressure Tool. And avoiding death.
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Taking apart Volks. Torque Pressure Tool. And avoiding death.
Couldn't find any info with the search (or maybe i just fail at keywords) so I apologize if this has been answered.
Wheels: VOLK GT-7
Fixing curb rash I stripped the anodized coating.
Now I need to strip all of it from the barrel and polish it.
I got the supposed torque pressure for the center part (spokes)
Questions
How do I measure the torque pressure as im screwing the screws in, and where can I get one online? (I'm in Chile and we dont have walmart or any US stores)
Can someone explain to me in detail how to take the rims apart, and put them back together?
And also special tips on stripping and polishing if possible please?
Thanks
Wheels: VOLK GT-7
Fixing curb rash I stripped the anodized coating.
Now I need to strip all of it from the barrel and polish it.
I got the supposed torque pressure for the center part (spokes)
Questions
How do I measure the torque pressure as im screwing the screws in, and where can I get one online? (I'm in Chile and we dont have walmart or any US stores)
Can someone explain to me in detail how to take the rims apart, and put them back together?
And also special tips on stripping and polishing if possible please?
Thanks
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Mackin Industries does not release these specs to the public for whatever reason.
To remove just put a socket in the back to hold it in place and use the allen head key. They are small bolts so you should be able to break them all by hand with ease.
For reassembly repeat the steps in reverse order but
1) Make sure to use locktite
2) Tighten in a star pattern
3) ~10lbs of tq to tighten
Be aware to not over tighten or you might end up snapping a bolt or two. If that happens then you are so outa luck in getting another set from Mackin
GL op.
-Tom
To remove just put a socket in the back to hold it in place and use the allen head key. They are small bolts so you should be able to break them all by hand with ease.
For reassembly repeat the steps in reverse order but
1) Make sure to use locktite
2) Tighten in a star pattern
3) ~10lbs of tq to tighten
Be aware to not over tighten or you might end up snapping a bolt or two. If that happens then you are so outa luck in getting another set from Mackin
GL op.
-Tom
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks again for the response, Tom.
When you say ~10 lbs of torque.. Am I supposed to estimate that force when tightening, or is there some sort of tool that measures how much torque youre applying? I REALLY do not want to mess this up, lol.
Also how did you get into the small holes, and did you use steel wool at all after wet sanding at 2000 grit (assuming you did that)?
When you say ~10 lbs of torque.. Am I supposed to estimate that force when tightening, or is there some sort of tool that measures how much torque youre applying? I REALLY do not want to mess this up, lol.
Also how did you get into the small holes, and did you use steel wool at all after wet sanding at 2000 grit (assuming you did that)?
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Once I get around to doing it, I'll take a video. That way people can learn what to do (or not do in case I screw up, god forbid)
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Thanks again for the response, Tom.
When you say ~10 lbs of torque.. Am I supposed to estimate that force when tightening, or is there some sort of tool that measures how much torque youre applying? I REALLY do not want to mess this up, lol.
Also how did you get into the small holes, and did you use steel wool at all after wet sanding at 2000 grit (assuming you did that)?
When you say ~10 lbs of torque.. Am I supposed to estimate that force when tightening, or is there some sort of tool that measures how much torque youre applying? I REALLY do not want to mess this up, lol.
Also how did you get into the small holes, and did you use steel wool at all after wet sanding at 2000 grit (assuming you did that)?
You set your torque wrench to 10lbs. I used a digital one and it beeped when i reached the set pressure.
If you plan to take to face of the wheel off then you should have no problem reaching any area on the lip. Plenty of room to work.
So basically what i did after the wheel was apart was
1) Remove anodized layer with oven cleaner. Just spray on and let sit for a couple minutes. The lip will looked stained (milky/hazy)
2) Sand with dry 300-800 grit (Lip will have scratches)
3) Sand with wet 1000-2000 grit (Lip will begin to look better)
4) Polish with aluminum polish (Preferably with Mothers polishing ball)
Voila! Now just put some wax to protect all your hard work.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Boynton Beach, FL
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Np man.
You set your torque wrench to 10lbs. I used a digital one and it beeped when i reached the set pressure.
If you plan to take to face of the wheel off then you should have no problem reaching any area on the lip. Plenty of room to work.
So basically what i did after the wheel was apart was
1) Remove anodized layer with oven cleaner. Just spray on and let sit for a couple minutes. The lip will looked stained (milky/hazy)
2) Sand with dry 300-800 grit (Lip will have scratches)
3) Sand with wet 1000-2000 grit (Lip will begin to look better)
4) Polish with aluminum polish (Preferably with Mothers polishing ball)
Voila! Now just put some wax to protect all your hard work.
You set your torque wrench to 10lbs. I used a digital one and it beeped when i reached the set pressure.
If you plan to take to face of the wheel off then you should have no problem reaching any area on the lip. Plenty of room to work.
So basically what i did after the wheel was apart was
1) Remove anodized layer with oven cleaner. Just spray on and let sit for a couple minutes. The lip will looked stained (milky/hazy)
2) Sand with dry 300-800 grit (Lip will have scratches)
3) Sand with wet 1000-2000 grit (Lip will begin to look better)
4) Polish with aluminum polish (Preferably with Mothers polishing ball)
Voila! Now just put some wax to protect all your hard work.
Perfect, thanks again !
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
djdiskino
Private Classifieds
1
10-07-2015 08:31 PM
SuicidalG37SGuy
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
8
09-10-2015 06:01 AM