20" Wheels w/Stock Suspension??
01-10-2010, 11:21 AM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, so if I add the Eibach Pro Kit with the below tires, I should be good with a rub free ride?? What about offsets?
245 30 20 fronts
285 35 20 rear
245 30 20 fronts
285 35 20 rear
01-10-2010, 01:15 PM
#18
255/35/20 with +35 front
285/30/20 with +45 rear
I m dropped on Tanabe NF210 with Zero rubbing. Most likely will be adding the Eibach fronts as soon as I can find a used pair. Worst case scenario I'll just buy the full kit in early spring.
01-10-2010, 02:11 PM
#19
Registered User
I'm dropped on Tein S-Techs with Vossen 085's, and I'm running 255/30/20's with a 38 offset up front and 305/25/20's with a 45 offset in the rear, and I have zero rubbing except for going over big speed bumps.
Going to be going down to a 285/30/20 tire in the rear with a 10MM spacer so I'll be essentially at a 35 offset.
Going to be going down to a 285/30/20 tire in the rear with a 10MM spacer so I'll be essentially at a 35 offset.
01-10-2010, 02:37 PM
#20
Registered User
As far as rubbing, you can't just say there will be rubbing for a few factors.
1. You never stated the widths of the wheels.
2. The offsets weren't mentioned either.
3. Tire size was never mentioned.
The first step is to figure out what size wheels in width you'd like to run. Once you determine that, then figure out the offset. The closer towards 0 and the higher the negative number you get into, the lower the offset, the more the wheel will stick out from the car.
Quick example: A 20 x 10 +50 will be more tucked than a 20 x 10 +40. With the +40 offset, you're wheels are going to be closer to the the fenders.
As for tire size, it's all a matter of the size of the barrel and the look you're going for. If you want a lot of meat, there are more chances of rubbing. You can go with a stretched tire or semi stretched tire if you want to reduce that chance.
I recommend lowering the car, at least on springs with the most drop possible for two reasons.
1. You'll look like a 4 x 4 if you don't. The car would look ugly no matter what wheels you have and how much they cost.
2. When you lower the car, it cambers naturally and that will help you quite a bit. You're probably thinking tire wear from camber now. Don't worry. It's not camber that affects your tires, it is the toe. You can't adjust front camber unless you spend nearly half a grand on upper A arms, but thankfully the factory toe can be adjusted quite a bit, so you'll be ok there and have some minimal inner tire wear possible (all depends on how much camber there is, but I don't presume it to be more than -2.5 degrees...that'll be quit a bit.
As for the rears, invest in toe bolts first. $50 bucks and it allows you to get the toe in spec better than the OEM bolts. If that's not enough, then invest in camber arms. I always recommend Battle Version, best on the market IMO for several reasons. If you need some lemme know. I don't think you'd have to go that route, but that's a worst case scenario.
Basically, get the car lowered, then buy the wheels and determine what specs to get, whether you want something that is aggressive or normal and you can choose tire size from there.
1. You never stated the widths of the wheels.
2. The offsets weren't mentioned either.
3. Tire size was never mentioned.
The first step is to figure out what size wheels in width you'd like to run. Once you determine that, then figure out the offset. The closer towards 0 and the higher the negative number you get into, the lower the offset, the more the wheel will stick out from the car.
Quick example: A 20 x 10 +50 will be more tucked than a 20 x 10 +40. With the +40 offset, you're wheels are going to be closer to the the fenders.
As for tire size, it's all a matter of the size of the barrel and the look you're going for. If you want a lot of meat, there are more chances of rubbing. You can go with a stretched tire or semi stretched tire if you want to reduce that chance.
I recommend lowering the car, at least on springs with the most drop possible for two reasons.
1. You'll look like a 4 x 4 if you don't. The car would look ugly no matter what wheels you have and how much they cost.
2. When you lower the car, it cambers naturally and that will help you quite a bit. You're probably thinking tire wear from camber now. Don't worry. It's not camber that affects your tires, it is the toe. You can't adjust front camber unless you spend nearly half a grand on upper A arms, but thankfully the factory toe can be adjusted quite a bit, so you'll be ok there and have some minimal inner tire wear possible (all depends on how much camber there is, but I don't presume it to be more than -2.5 degrees...that'll be quit a bit.
As for the rears, invest in toe bolts first. $50 bucks and it allows you to get the toe in spec better than the OEM bolts. If that's not enough, then invest in camber arms. I always recommend Battle Version, best on the market IMO for several reasons. If you need some lemme know. I don't think you'd have to go that route, but that's a worst case scenario.
Basically, get the car lowered, then buy the wheels and determine what specs to get, whether you want something that is aggressive or normal and you can choose tire size from there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
04G35NYC
Private Classifieds
13
12-24-2015 01:00 AM
