Stanced370Z

Yup, in less than 3 months i went through both rear Falkens I was running. I would say I put 3,000-3,500 miles on them, and that's thanks to my alignment. I procrastinated it and ignored it until today when I saw the inside of my tires worn to where the threads are coming out. I was in shock.

My question is: I'm not going with the Falken's again cause they are the biggest piece of sh*t tires i've ever ridden on. Now I'm running stretched setup and wanted to see if I should run Hankook's and if they are any better than the Falkens? What other "affordable" tire options are there in 255/30/20?

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Yokohama S drives. Please fix your rear camber and toe before you waste more money on tires.

SOLISIMO

iTrader: (7)

Thats why I switched to Hankooks, the best tire to stretch, flakens suck and i just got rid of all of them, dont believe me call autoglitz, they had to cut the falkens off my rims

heff

if ur runnin mad camber ur tires are guna be shot no matter the brand

SOLISIMO

iTrader: (7)

your incorrect, my tires had less than 1000 miles on them and I drive the car once a week, do ur research on Falkens

jran76

iTrader: (2)

I had the same issues with the Falken's, and I would go with the Hankook's if I had it to do over. I was not impressed with the 452's beyond the wear issues. My Falken's lasted about 4500 miles. I actually did get an alignment the day before I put them on, but something changed after the alignment. Cobb (who did my alignment) attributed it to the different wheels/tires. I had my stock wheels/tires on when I got the alignment, and installed the Volk's with the Falken's the next day. I am not so sure about what changed, but it was really the toe that chewed through the tires. My toe was at .2-.25 when I checked the alignment again. Camber was around -1.6. Needless to say, the Falken's are not very forgiving. I have run more negative camber, and had worse toe settings, and not gone through tires like that.... This was around my tenth set of "high performance" tires, and I would put them near the bottom. I am back to running BFG KDW2's now, but I am going to try the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo's next time

jran76

iTrader: (2)

Toe will cause a lot more problems than camber. Excessive negative camber will cause uneven wear, but toe will cause tires to prematurely wear out (like what the OP describes). Excessive toe kills tires. I would try to keep the toe as close to 0 as possible....

gan78mao

iTrader: (1)

i had no issues with my FK 452s at all except the grip suck like no other
im not running as stretched as u guys are but minor stretch and i have negative 3 camber in the rear with no toe which lasted me over 18k with flipping them twice. and i dont drive like a grandma, i take my turns pretty hard and i drive my car pretty hard.

as to tire tread life wise i would say its decent, ive heard numerous things like them exploding but so far mines are great and i just recently swapped them after 18k.
u guys better check ur toe, negative camber is not the only thign u should fix.
ive learned the toe problem from my last car and that kills the tire more than the negative camber!
hope this helps!

pfizzle

iTrader: (2)

I have had over 15k miles on my Invos, they still look legit. lol -3.9 rear.

TheLocNar

iTrader: (5)

So your alignment is shot, and you're blaming the tires? Really?

soundmike

iTrader: (6)

I'm sure to be in the minority here, but i've had my Falken's for 20k+ miles now. It has also seen two HPDE days, the first of which was in 100+ degree weather. It performs nothing short of admirable for what they cost. I will be replacing it soon, likely with the same.

Interestingly, there's more pro's posted on the 452's from the sedan guys.

BocaIvan

Can someone school me on why Toe affects tire wear and not Camber?

jran76

iTrader: (2)

If you are looking at the top of your tires (down from the top/above your car):

/ \ = toe in (positive number)
\ / = toe out (negative number)

RWD cars will typically maintain some toe in; especially in the rear. Excessive toe in will "scrub" the tires, leading to excessive wear. I can't think of a real easy way to explain the affect other than to think about the fact your car is moving in a strait line, and the tires are essentially at a slight angle in which has a scrubbing affect on the tires (the tire is moving slightly sideways as the vehicle is moving in a strait line). Camber will cause uneven wear (side-to-side) on tires, but excessive toe will cause premature/excessive wear on the entire tire.

The stock range for the front is 0 to 0.08 degrees, and the rear is 0 to 0.22. Excessive toe will reduce oversteer, and aid turn-in and high-speed cornering. It will decrease wet weather handling, and increase tire wear. For minimal wear you want to keep the front as close to 0 as possible, and the rear below 0.1 or lower.

Some tires are more forgiving than others. As I mentioned above, I was running -1.5 degrees of camber, and (unknowingly) about 0.25 to 0.3 degrees of toe in, and it destroyed my Falken FK-452's in about 4000 miles. I have intentionally run -2 degrees of camber, and 0.25 degrees of toe-in, and had tires last in the 10k mile range. Numbers like this are not uncommon on a more performance oriented setup. Race cars run more camber, and more toe in most cases....

BocaIvan

Thanks for the response.

These are my numbers after my drop:
Front
Camber -1.5 -1.5
Caster 4.9 5.0
Toe 0.06 0.05

Rear
Camber -2.2 -2.1
Toe 0.11 0.09

I think I'll be alright...

jran76

iTrader: (2)

You'll get some uneven wear due to the negative camber, but overall your toe is pretty good.