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Hey Guys, new stock 09' G37S Coupe owner here. Is there enough clearance between the oil pan drain plug and the access panel to allow me to use the Fumoto F-103N extended nipple version, or am better off with the regular model? I'd hate to install the thing and find out that the access panel won't shut. Thanks!
I just installed the F-103N 2 days ago, it doesn't make any contact with the under tray. This is assuming you only unzip the 4 rear screws and bend the plastic panel at its crease.
OK, I have used many Fumoto valves and I am trying to install one on my 2014 Q60,
Car only has 16,000 miles on it, always serviced at Infiniti Dealer, I take plastic pan off, already missing the 3 plastic tabs and remove oil filter. Then try to remove the oil pan plug with 14mm socket...I could not make it budge using up to a 1/2" breaker bar! I have had this problem with some idiot cranking the plug and filter so tight to start the stripping of threads, hence my use of Fumoto along with the ease to take mid pour sample for Blackstone.
I know the MAX torque of oil pan plug is 29 ft lb but a 16" breaker bar will not budge it. It does have the blue paint on it confirming torqued, BUT!!! I called dealer who has done all servicing and their response was "It is supposed to be tight". No argument there but there is a difference between "tighten snug and friction welding it". I told Dealer I was not comfortable trying to remove this plug as it may already be friction welded to the pan as I could see the pan starting to distort as I beefed on the breaker bar.
The Fumoto has rubber O ring seal but it really does not protrude much past the valve housing. Have any of you all had any issue with leak, as I don't think the crush washer should be used against a rubber O ring. I think my M's and maybe the old G had cast pans but still used crush washer don't recall but never had a problem. The original plug on my F-150,000 had a permanent washer on original plug, if I recall I just removed and installed Fumoto more than 300,000 miles ago with no problem.
Has anybody had this type problem taking plug out? I'm tempted to just have dealer take it out...Never checked, in all these years,does a torque wrench work backwards?
Can you read/set torque to remove rather than tighten? The max torque to tighten factory drain plug with new crush washer is 29 inch pounds. What is the torque to remove the same?
I know the MAX torque of oil pan plug is 29 ft lb but a 16" breaker bar will not budge it. It does have the blue paint on it confirming torqued, BUT!!! I called dealer who has done all servicing and their response was "It is supposed to be tight". No argument there but there is a difference between "tighten snug and friction welding it". I told Dealer I was not comfortable trying to remove this plug as it may already be friction welded to the pan as I could see the pan starting to distort as I beefed on the breaker bar.
The Fumoto has rubber O ring seal but it really does not protrude much past the valve housing. Have any of you all had any issue with leak, as I don't think the crush washer should be used against a rubber O ring. I think my M's and maybe the old G had cast pans but still used crush washer don't recall but never had a problem. The original plug on my F-150,000 had a permanent washer on original plug, if I recall I just removed and installed Fumoto more than 300,000 miles ago with no problem.
Has anybody had this type problem taking plug out? I'm tempted to just have dealer take it out...Never checked, in all these years,does a torque wrench work backwards?
Originally Posted by 1971442w30conv
Can you read/set torque to remove rather than tighten? The max torque to tighten factory drain plug with new crush washer is 29 inch pounds. What is the torque to remove the same?
If you are talking about measuring breakaway torque, AFAIK you can but not with modern click type or digital ones that most mechanics use, you have to use the dial type that used to be used a long time ago and are currently used in engineering/lab type environments or the super cheapo ones which in my experience arent particularly precise...the only mechanics I have seen using them still are drivline ppl use them to set up FD gears...
couple things...a 16 breaker bar isn't that long...try something longer.
if you damage the threads on the pan use a thread chaser to fix them...
not trying to sound mean or anything but I'm a bit at a loss for all the trouble/concern...its just an oil pan, its not a precision engineered internal engine component... you can replace the whole pan for 50 dollars and it comes with a new drain plug if you're really worried....either way good luck
No offense taken, but this usually happens on Sunday afternoon. 29 pounds is not 290! Car is under warranty until 2025 but that does cover abuse or stupidity!
My point was it should not take a breaker bar with a 2 foot pipe extension to remove the plug. I went thru this with Ford years ago, and after they had changed the oil on one of my fleet trucks approx.10 times they informed me that the oil pan needed to be replaced due to the fact that pan plug hole was stripped. I had saved a video of one of my guys, a Carpenter but a gear head at heart like me trying to remove oil plug and filter using correct cup socket for filter and 16mm for plug, neither would budge. In fact the filter started to twist and deform. This on the truck that had to go in for pan replacement. I had purchased 12 work trucks from this dealer over several years, I told the GM" last purchase, last service".
Back to the Fumoto, use copper crush along with rubber o ring on Fumoto or not?
i like the design (no petcock, machined cap) better. ordered two, but they are backordered/sold out ... was told 6-8 weeks, but oil was recently changed in both cars, so i don't mind waiting.
also ordered and received the oil drain bag, and alredy used it to change oil on my riding mower.
I have the extended nipple on my fumoto on my 2012, it;'s fine. Used the washer/gasket that came with it, I did not torque it down hard.
Tight drain plug? Make them take it off. They put it on there so tight, they can deal with it. Then in the parking lot, see if you can break it free before you leave, if not tell them to do it again... to spec. I hate stealerships. They do this $hit on purpose to keep you from working on your own car.
Valvomax? Eh, kind of negates the point doesn't it? I am looking for a faster toolless solution (fumoto), and that thing requires a wrench to get the draining potion on. And I'm not a fan of the plastic retention strap. After a few hundred heat/freeze cycles it may get brittle and break.
02-23-2010, 07:24 PM
