Driveshaft Upgrade
#91
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
^+1. You changed two things that could cause that specific noise. I would put the stock driveshaft back on to rule out the diff. You might also want to double check the torque on the half-shaft bolts that connect to the diff output. These cars are already extremely sensitive to small changes in the rear axles/diff (rear axle click if it's not installed just right), so changing the diff, WHILE reassembling the whole system, WHILE changing the driveshaft, introduces a lot of variables all at once.
Weirdly, when I changed my diff, I first had a slight vibration, but it smoothed itself out in a few miles. I basically slapped it back together, drove it lightly for a few miles, like 30 miles or so, and then a couple hard launches. Then I double checked all the bolts, and it's perfectly smooth now.
Weirdly, when I changed my diff, I first had a slight vibration, but it smoothed itself out in a few miles. I basically slapped it back together, drove it lightly for a few miles, like 30 miles or so, and then a couple hard launches. Then I double checked all the bolts, and it's perfectly smooth now.
#92
Premier Member
Just placed an order with a local DriveShaft Shop in Seattle area I will let you all know about my experience and feedback on the product.
#94
Premier Member
#95
Premier Member
iTrader: (4)
When I switched to 17 inch rpf1 and changed tires lost a good bit. I can definitely feel it on the top end. At least 10lbs on each corner.
Wondering if 10-15lbs saving on the rear driveshaft is worth the $1000....I lost that with each wheel at $220 per rim...
had as a shop out here in Georgia give me an estimate and said they could do it but just having a hard time with the money.
It makes cents though. Wish i could get both driveshafts for around $1000 or so installed.
Also not a fan of the idea of the aluminum breaking and it going crazy at 120mph... maybe that doesn’t happen but no matter the money I would have to have cf just because of that. It would be the only carbon fiber I would ever put on my car lol
Wondering if 10-15lbs saving on the rear driveshaft is worth the $1000....I lost that with each wheel at $220 per rim...
had as a shop out here in Georgia give me an estimate and said they could do it but just having a hard time with the money.
It makes cents though. Wish i could get both driveshafts for around $1000 or so installed.
Also not a fan of the idea of the aluminum breaking and it going crazy at 120mph... maybe that doesn’t happen but no matter the money I would have to have cf just because of that. It would be the only carbon fiber I would ever put on my car lol
The following users liked this post:
Calg37USMC (01-20-2018)
#98
Premier Member
DriveShaft is done! I’ll post pics later and review.
The following users liked this post:
Bravo at (01-25-2018)
#99
Premier Member
Some pictures for you guys. I’ll post a review later when I actually drive the car.
Went with a local shop called NW drivelines. 3.5” Aluminum with 1350/1355 yokes. I forgot to weigh the DS but it is significantly lighter then the stock 2 piece.
Went with a local shop called NW drivelines. 3.5” Aluminum with 1350/1355 yokes. I forgot to weigh the DS but it is significantly lighter then the stock 2 piece.
#101
Premier Member
1350+ are truck u joints but can also be used for high power applications. It may be over kill but if I’m spending money might as well do it right the first time.
Hopefully that explains it. I honestly hate typing but love the site and you guys so Please bear with me
Hopefully that explains it. I honestly hate typing but love the site and you guys so Please bear with me
The following 2 users liked this post by Calg37USMC:
RMB5190 (01-26-2018),
slartibartfast (01-26-2018)
The following users liked this post:
Calg37USMC (01-26-2018)
#103
Premier Member
Yea man I had no choice I blew the stock one so I had to replace it and the cost for OEM DS from Infiniti is far more expensive than this aluminum piece.
The following users liked this post:
Calg37USMC (01-27-2018)