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Are you running a 275/40 in the rear? I'm planning on doing 275/40 square on my 18x9.5 Weds Sports if I can manage to make it fit. If not, 265/40.
275's out back, but they are 19's and I think 35's instead of 40's. (I just went to check and then remembered I switched to snow tires already- whoops!) No rubbing issues with my Tein Basis coilovers.
Originally Posted by future62
Nice writeups 4DRZ. I think my next car will have cloth seats. There's the weather thing as well...
Yes I am definitely digging having cloth seats now that it is much colder today. 19 degrees with a high of 27 and the seats were comfortable to sit in right away. My leather passenger seat was freezing cold. People swear by heated leather, but it still takes a while to heat up and they are still scorching hot in the summer. Very happy to be back to cloth.
Originally Posted by Rochester
Interesting description. Essentially, it's managing core weight better, rather than just resisting weight that's already shifted. Kind of like the effects of minimizing engine and body flex. That's pretty cool. I can only imagine you're enjoying that.
And really surprised to read an assessment that racing seats are actually more comfortable than the OEM sport seats. I suspect comfort is being influenced by stability. If you're body is moving around less, I could see how that would seem comfortable.
Good luck with your helmet. No good mod goes unmodded.
The added stability is not really influencing the comfort at all, but definitely helps with fatigue as you are solidly planted in the seat. You don't realize how much you move around in the factory seats (even with all the bolsters fully inflated) until you put in a narrow cloth seat like my Sparco.
I believe the comfort comes from much better/dense padding. It is really not that thick where my butt is, but significantly thicker under the front of my legs. It could also be that the thigh bolsters are taking some of my weight too. Those seem to be softening up a bit as well.
The guy in our body shop thinks he can lower the front by 1.25-1.5 inches so that should be perfect if we drop the rear the same or just a touch more. Either my measurements were wrong and it is much higher than stock or I am very perceptive of this change as it feels like I am sitting up high like driving a truck.
The bad news is that he is busy for at least a month before he can hack up the seat rails and it is not going to be terribly cheap- almost as much as the seat rails, but worth every cent if he can get it lower than stock and I can fit ok with a helmet.
275's out back, but they are 19's and I think 35's instead of 40's. (I just went to check and then remembered I switched to snow tires already- whoops!) No rubbing issues with my Tein Basis coilovers
That's very assuring for me! I think 275/40/18 would offer a similar fitment to 275/35 on a 19.
Absolutely. I am glad that I was not rushing to get the seat right before a track day I already paid for. That would be a lot worse.
I would think so. Can you adjust the height on your suspension?
Yeah I can. Stance XR1 true type coilovers, 12/8k Swift springs. SPL front upper control arms, SPL rear toe arms/lockout kit, and SPL rear camber arms.
Yeah I can. Stance XR1 true type coilovers, 12/8k Swift springs. SPL front upper control arms, SPL rear toe arms/lockout kit, and SPL rear camber arms.
Impressive list there, Z. No aftermarket swaybars? That's kind of odd, everything else considered.
Yeah I can. Stance XR1 true type coilovers, 12/8k Swift springs. SPL front upper control arms, SPL rear toe arms/lockout kit, and SPL rear camber arms.
I think you would be fine then. I have had zero rubbing issues in back and I have messed around with the height a bit.
Impressive list there, Z. No aftermarket swaybars? That's kind of odd, everything else considered.
And full SPL, huh? That can sure get expensive.
I thought I told you what happened regarding my sway bars? So I had installed the coilovers and everything... and then like 2 weeks later, I installed the Hotchkis sways I had purchased along with the Moog end links. After 2 weeks of driving, I couldn't deal with how harsh the ride was. I guess 12/8k Swifts on true-type coilovers, with spherical bearings on all of my control arms paired with the stiffest sway bars for this platform... I decided it was time to go back to the stock sways. I personally prefer the way the car handles without the Hotchkis. Sway bars indirectly increase the spring rate so it didn't make for a good combo. If I ever revalve my coilovers and go with say, 10/6k rates, I'll reconsider stiffer sway bars. I'd love to pickup a set of Eibach sways since they're mild compared to the Hotchkis but its at the bottom of my list right now.
And yeah, SPL everything. Black Friday 2016 got to me.
I fit my rear 275's on the front and they looked like they fit fine because of the offsets. I had to raise my front end up a touch as the 245 tires were just barely rubbing the fender liners on track. Then again you might be ok as it looks like your springs are a lot stiffer than my Tein Basis.
SPARCO R600 seat update: Today is the first day I seem to be sitting a bit lower and almost exactly where I was stock so the seat padding is breaking in a little bit. Good news if you just want to use these seats on the street. I still plan to lower the brackets to give me some more room with a helmet on so I do not have to lean the seat way back.
I installed the RJM clutch pedal assembly the other day and it makes the car much easier to drive; the way it should have been from the factory. It is such a nice change that I actually had to re-adjust my driving to not anticipate the normal jerky "hick-up" of the normal clutch assembly- even with the Jsolo spring I already had (that is still an improvement over stock). The pedal is now consistent through the entire range of motion. Very nice mod that really should be the first thing you do if you have a 6spd.
All in all, the install is not too bad. I pulled out my seat to lay on my back, but it was really not necessary. Following are my tips to save you a bunch of time on the install.
RJM clutch pedal assembly on the left (clutch pedal not attached yet) and stock on the right. It is a lot more solidly built and surprisingly 1.5 lbs. lighter for us weight junkies.
These are the blue connectors you will unplug. Don't follow the directions wasting your time trying to unplug the top plug until you have pulled down the clutch assembly. Also don't worry about breaking the nut loose holding the top sensor on until you have the clutch assembly out of the car. Much easier to do on a bench. You can still unplug the lower blue connector and I broke the lower nut loose on the sensor while the clutch assembly was attached, but you probably don't need to.
This blue stopper is a PITA to get out of the old assembly if you just use a needle nose pliers like the directions advise. Use a needle nose on the left side to compress the "pin," but use a flat head screwdriver on the right to pop it out.
The directions say to soak the pedal cover in soap and water to get it onto the new assembly. Not necessary. The directions also say to use a butter knife to slide the top rubber of the pedal cover onto the new pedal. That will take you a week to do. Instead, use a pic to get under the top flap and slide it right over the pedal. Piece of cake.
Here is a little better picture of the orientation of the white stoppers on the new clutch pedal assembly.
This is the optional HD clevis. It is definitely a more solid part, but get it just because it is a lot easier to adjust than pulling out the cotter pin on the stock clevis. When removing the clutch assembly I pulled off the clevis and realized that the clutch arm moves down quite a ways so it is pretty easy to get the whole assembly out.
The directions say to count the number of turns when you remove the clevis so you know where to start with the new clevis, but it is not really necessary. I started with the HD clevis threaded on all the way and then moved it back one full turn which was too far out for me. Moved it back in a half turn and it was perfect.
After driving around on the RJM clutch pedal assembly for over a week, I have to say this is probably the first mod you should do if you have a stick shift. It is not very difficult to install and you will be simply amazed with how much easier it is to drive the car. I actually had to re-train myself to drive it like a normal car. Feels as easy to drive as any Honda with a manual transmission now.
It is also surprising how much difference one small turn of the clevis changes the engagement point of the clutch. I had it spun all the way on and it was just too close to the firewall. I simply spun it one turn out and suddenly it feels like it moved over an inch away from the firewall and it is perfect.
I have yet to even mess around with the other adjustments yet. Has anyone else tried the other adjustments and have any stories or recommendations?
Genuinely happy to see you on board. The RJM pedal is truly something you have to experience for yourself in order to appreciate it. So many people get all tripped up with identity bias, under the misconception that if you know how to drive a MT, then you don't need to improve it. It's a silly premise, but people are silly. I admit to that, before taking a leap of faith a few years ago.
Adjustment stories: I had the pedal level with the brake at first. It felt awkward, so I moved it up to approximate OEM pedal height. As for the ****, I think it's something you tweak two or three times at first, until you get it where you want, then lock it down and forget about it. Does the current model have a lock-down bolt, or did he change that up?
Zahy has his to the point where it's super touchy. I couldn't believe it was the same car with the same clutch pedal. So yeah, the adjustment makes a huge difference.
11-10-2017, 02:11 PM
