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So after much research, I am planning on doing my own oil change from this point forward. This will be the first time I do this in my life. However, before I do this DIY for the first time, I have a few questions.
My G: 2012 G37xS
1. What is the torque spec for the engine oil plug bolt? I could not find this information and I wasn't sure if there was any in existence?
2. If there is a torque spec for the oil bolt, would the presence of oil cause the screw to be over torqued regardless if a torque wrench is used during tightening? IF yes, how do you over come this issue?
3. Once the oil starts draining, should I lower the car to level ground? If I don't, do I risk not draining out all the old engine oil?
4. How tight should the engine filter be screwed on?
5. Do the engine oil filter magnet that some attached to their filter really work that well?
6. From all the youtube videos I saw, it seems that the removal of the engine filter causes a huge mess if the entire skid plate is not removed. Is there anyway around this mess without having to remove the entire skid plate?
Pick up a half dozen crush washers for the drain plug to get you by for a while.
Not sure on the X model, but on my RWD G the plastic underpan has a crease so all you have to do is remove the rear 4 bolts in the plastic pan and it will bend out of the way to access the filter and drain bolt, makes it much quicker than removing the whole splash pan.
I drain the filter first, reinstall filter, with a dab of oil on the gasket (just as tight as I can by hand, no tighter)
Drain oil, I just leave mine angled up, never compared if there was any more oil to come out of the pan if you level it, the plug is in a spot on the pan where it appears that either way would be very similar but ????
Install new crush washer (I only use new washers every few years, lol, never had any issues but you are supposed to use new crush washers every time) That link that Solo posted is good, step 6 shows the proper placement of the crush washer.
I also use the larger Infiniti 5.6l V8 filters, the OEM filters for the VQ are SO small.
FWIW, you won't cause a thread strip when loosening a bolt regardless of a breaker bar or other wrench, but when installing the bolt just be sure to get it all the way threaded by hand until snug, then torque it down to spec w/ your torque wrench. Cross threading or over tightening are what causes the bolt to strip.
Pick up a half dozen crush washers for the drain plug to get you by for a while.
Not sure on the X model, but on my RWD G the plastic underpan has a crease so all you have to do is remove the rear 4 bolts in the plastic pan and it will bend out of the way to access the filter and drain bolt, makes it much quicker than removing the whole splash pan.
I drain the filter first, reinstall filter, with a dab of oil on the gasket (just as tight as I can by hand, no tighter)
Drain oil, I just leave mine angled up, never compared if there was any more oil to come out of the pan if you level it, the plug is in a spot on the pan where it appears that either way would be very similar but ????
Install new crush washer (I only use new washers every few years, lol, never had any issues but you are supposed to use new crush washers every time) That link that Solo posted is good, step 6 shows the proper placement of the crush washer.
I also use the larger Infiniti 5.6l V8 filters, the OEM filters for the VQ are SO small.
FWIW, you won't cause a thread strip when loosening a bolt regardless of a breaker bar or other wrench, but when installing the bolt just be sure to get it all the way threaded by hand until snug, then torque it down to spec w/ your torque wrench. Cross threading or over tightening are what causes the bolt to strip.
Thank you as well.
However, with the oil in the threads (even after wiping it out), wouldn't the torque spec be exceeded? I am just very concern about stripping the thread since I wouldn't know due to my lack experience.
In the thread Jsolo provided, some have used an "Oil Extractor". Do these extractor work well (although time consuming)? Do they remove equal or more amount of oil as when compared to the traditional oil change method?
Been changing oil for well over 2 decades in cars and bikes. Have yet to strip the oil pan threads. This engine is a bit goofy because you need to compress the washer first, then snug it. Once compressed, just a bit more to tighten (30-45 degrees, ~1/8 turn).
Maybe what you need to do is get a proper torque wrench and practice on various nuts/bolts to get a feel for what 25-30 ft lb is.
In fact, I don't even suggest using a ratchet. Instead use the closed end of a wrench (14 or 15mm). For ease of removal, you can use a 1/2" rachet with appropriate socket. Just make sure you're loosening and not tightening first!
Based on your questions, it'd be best to have someone who knows what they're doing supervise the first time.
However, with the oil in the threads (even after wiping it out), wouldn't the torque spec be exceeded? I am just very concern about stripping the thread since I wouldn't know due to my lack experience.
In the thread Jsolo provided, some have used an "Oil Extractor". Do these extractor work well (although time consuming)? Do they remove equal or more amount of oil as when compared to the traditional oil change method?
Understand being concerned, but just take your time or like Solo mentioned, have a helper that's versed in auto repair help you along.
Having oil in the threads won't have any significant effect on the actual torque, if it was a very light torque (in inch pounds perhaps) then maybe. 25 ft. lbs isn't real tight, it's basically just a snug down then, another 1/8th to 1/4 turn. Also the amount of oil for a full filter & oil change is 5.2 qts, so get that extra qt for future top offs.
Like Solo, I've done decades of oil changes, never had a stripped thread or oil related failure, and never used an oil extractor. I've sent oil samples to Blackstone now & then and all have turned out excellent.
Definitely check out the thread provided by Jsolo & watched as many video as u can.
Thought I share my oil change method.
Drive car for bout 5-10 min. Jack car from middle of car jacking point. Use jack stand on both front SIDES. Put jack on 1 side of car for additional support. I put on passenger side.
Remove bottom car panel. Loosen oil cap on top of engine. Oil drain plug has 14 mm. Use glove to remove plug cause engine may still b hot. Let drain for bout 30 min. Or so. Use time to clean drain plug & get crush washer in place. Can also inspect others stuff.. Belt cracking, wheel axle, any wet spot, etc. remove oil filter after 30 min drain. Regrease gasket of new filter w finger & new oil. Install filter by hand. Wipe any oil u see before installing filter & drain plug.
Lower car after inspecting ur work. Pour oil in. I changed oil bout 3-4 times & have only fill w Mobil 1 5qt jug & mobil 1 filter. Oil mark on dip stick is always just below the H.
Evaluate ur 1st time & do ur method on ur next oil change.
NOTE: my oil change interval is every 6k. Mobil 1 synthetic FTW
M1-108 - advance auto parts. $8 w coupon
Oil at Walmart $23 or $10 w rebate
Yeah, good point about changing oil when car is warmed up. There are several good oil filters for good pricing, the Mobil 1, Wix, Bosch Premium, are all good performers, the K&N is a bit more money but has an top nut for easy removal.
I've used Mobil 1 for a long time, the last few years I've gone w/ Pennzoil Platinum and usually use the Bosch filters. Sometimes you can find good oil/filter combo deals and they usually offer a filter upgrade for a few dollars more. I'd avoid the Fram filters but the ones listed above are good options.
I also go 6k oil change intervals on full synthetic w/ good results.
Definitely check out the thread provided by Jsolo & watched as many video as u can.
Thought I share my oil change method.
Drive car for bout 5-10 min. Jack car from middle of car jacking point. Use jack stand on both front SIDES. Put jack on 1 side of car for additional support. I put on passenger side.
Remove bottom car panel. Loosen oil cap on top of engine. Oil drain plug has 14 mm. Use glove to remove plug cause engine may still b hot. Let drain for bout 30 min. Or so. Use time to clean drain plug & get crush washer in place. Can also inspect others stuff.. Belt cracking, wheel axle, any wet spot, etc. remove oil filter after 30 min drain. Regrease gasket of new filter w finger & new oil. Install filter by hand. Wipe any oil u see before installing filter & drain plug.
Lower car after inspecting ur work. Pour oil in. I changed oil bout 3-4 times & have only fill w Mobil 1 5qt jug & mobil 1 filter. Oil mark on dip stick is always just below the H.
Evaluate ur 1st time & do ur method on ur next oil change.
NOTE: my oil change interval is every 6k. Mobil 1 synthetic FTW
M1-108 - advance auto parts. $8 w coupon
Oil at Walmart $23 or $10 w rebate
Understand being concerned, but just take your time or like Solo mentioned, have a helper that's versed in auto repair help you along.
Having oil in the threads won't have any significant effect on the actual torque, if it was a very light torque (in inch pounds perhaps) then maybe. 25 ft. lbs isn't real tight, it's basically just a snug down then, another 1/8th to 1/4 turn. Also the amount of oil for a full filter & oil change is 5.2 qts, so get that extra qt for future top offs.
Like Solo, I've done decades of oil changes, never had a stripped thread or oil related failure, and never used an oil extractor. I've sent oil samples to Blackstone now & then and all have turned out excellent.
Originally Posted by blnewt
Yeah, good point about changing oil when car is warmed up. There are several good oil filters for good pricing, the Mobil 1, Wix, Bosch Premium, are all good performers, the K&N is a bit more money but has an top nut for easy removal.
I've used Mobil 1 for a long time, the last few years I've gone w/ Pennzoil Platinum and usually use the Bosch filters. Sometimes you can find good oil/filter combo deals and they usually offer a filter upgrade for a few dollars more. I'd avoid the Fram filters but the ones listed above are good options.
I also go 6k oil change intervals on full synthetic w/ good results.
Thank you! I will definitely have someone familiar with the process guide me on my first time. I got to learn some how right and now is better than later.
Does changing oil yourself void Infiniti power train warranty? Even with receipt that you bought oil and filter?
No, just be sure to catalog your receipts and keep records in your factory service log.
I write #s on all receipts and put the # of the receipt in the service log. I also store all my receipts in that binder that holds the owners manual & log book.
i have not changed the oil in my G yet - had 1st free done by dealer, then they sent me another free one in the mail, so ...
i'm assuming even stock G's are too low to just do oil changes by laying on the ground and reaching under the car?
i usually will go for short drive to warm it up, and jack up the side opposite the drain plug (driver side on the G , i believe) - that way, more of the old oil comes out as its "tilted" (my jack has a big "pin" that acts like a jackstand - for extra safety, i place another jackstand on that side in the rear.)
06-19-2016, 07:14 AM
