Lowering help!!! Never done this before..
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Lowering help!!! Never done this before..
I was hoping to get some help, I have read endless forum posts but just seem to get confused at time on what I myself really need. I have a 2010 G37x I'm going to pull the trigger with the FA 500's. I don't plan on slamming it but I want to get a flush or zero gap space with my factory duck feet. Do I need camber kits ? Toe bolts ? Or can I just get away with just the coils? Thank you guys for the help !!!
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Pics will def. be posted maybe even some play by play of install. But that's where I get confused bc those who bought the swift spring were mostly all able to stay within spec with out a camber kit , but some needed just the rears?
#4
Registered Member
Springs only will go maybe an inch lower I think. Some say if you only go an inch your OK. But your wanting to go much lower. Get you a rear camber kit and call it a day. But I'm no expert by any means. And my car is basically stock so. Lol.
#5
Lexus Defector
iTrader: (60)
What you can get away with and the right way to do it are two different issues. Can you simply install coil overs and leave it at that? Absolutely. Should you? Not if you actually car about your car and how it drives. Anyone who tells you that you don't really need to do anything else is lowering strictly for looks only. To lower the car and maintain full functionality you need to correct the things you've changed in your suspension geometry by lowering it. Front upper arms that adjust camber and caster will allow you to adjust it back to a setting where it drives and handles like it is designed to (pretty much).
In the rear, a toe bolt that has greater adjustment range than the stock one will allow you to adjust the toe back to normal even with the suspension lowered. Ditto with rear camber arms. Without these you'll be on of proper alignment. Yes your car will still drive and most people can't tell the difference. But not doing these things places a lot of extra stress on components (especially wheels and tires) that they aren't designed to handle.
In the rear, a toe bolt that has greater adjustment range than the stock one will allow you to adjust the toe back to normal even with the suspension lowered. Ditto with rear camber arms. Without these you'll be on of proper alignment. Yes your car will still drive and most people can't tell the difference. But not doing these things places a lot of extra stress on components (especially wheels and tires) that they aren't designed to handle.
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gavingw (04-26-2016)
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
What you can get away with and the right way to do it are two different issues. Can you simply install coil overs and leave it at that? Absolutely. Should you? Not if you actually car about your car and how it drives. Anyone who tells you that you don't really need to do anything else is lowering strictly for looks only. To lower the car and maintain full functionality you need to correct the things you've changed in your suspension geometry by lowering it. Front upper arms that adjust camber and caster will allow you to adjust it back to a setting where it drives and handles like it is designed to (pretty much).
In the rear, a toe bolt that has greater adjustment range than the stock one will allow you to adjust the toe back to normal even with the suspension lowered. Ditto with rear camber arms. Without these you'll be on of proper alignment. Yes your car will still drive and most people can't tell the difference. But not doing these things places a lot of extra stress on components (especially wheels and tires) that they aren't designed to handle.
In the rear, a toe bolt that has greater adjustment range than the stock one will allow you to adjust the toe back to normal even with the suspension lowered. Ditto with rear camber arms. Without these you'll be on of proper alignment. Yes your car will still drive and most people can't tell the difference. But not doing these things places a lot of extra stress on components (especially wheels and tires) that they aren't designed to handle.
#7
Lexus Defector
iTrader: (60)
Yes, that's my strongly held opinion. I have had both SPC and SPL parts. There's no comparison, the SPL are better by a wide margin. Not that the SPC are not capable. But the design, build quality, and materials of the SPL are much better. And the significantly higher price reflects this.
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#8
Registered User
Question:
Are these the camber arms you are referring to and will they fit the AWD model? Also, do we need to replace the front control arms as well?
Adjustable Rear Camber Arms for 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts
Are these the camber arms you are referring to and will they fit the AWD model? Also, do we need to replace the front control arms as well?
Adjustable Rear Camber Arms for 370Z and G37 | SPL Parts
#9
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Those would be the correct rear arms^^^, and the camber sets for AWD & RWD are the same although there are different part #s for SPC coupe/sedan rear applications.
If you go zero gap (about 26.25" to the fender) then you will need the front camber arms too. The SPLs are sweet but costly, I'd get them if you plan on really pushing your G, but for primarily daily duty the SPCs will work fine. I've had SPCs on my RWD G for about 60k miles now and no issues whatsoever, and I was at 25.75" at one point, but now happily back to zero gap
If you go zero gap (about 26.25" to the fender) then you will need the front camber arms too. The SPLs are sweet but costly, I'd get them if you plan on really pushing your G, but for primarily daily duty the SPCs will work fine. I've had SPCs on my RWD G for about 60k miles now and no issues whatsoever, and I was at 25.75" at one point, but now happily back to zero gap
#10
Registered User
Subbed for info. I've lowered my car about 1.5 inches with no camber kit, just coils. However, I haven't noticed a noticeable difference. Although, after the alignment was done. I was barely out of spec.
I was going to get Sway's,, dechrome, headlight mods and cut/polish + Ceramic Pro next.
Black Betty and BLnewt, would you recommend getting these first.
BLnewt, I believe you've seen pictures before. However, I'll add them again for Black Betty.
I was going to get Sway's,, dechrome, headlight mods and cut/polish + Ceramic Pro next.
Black Betty and BLnewt, would you recommend getting these first.
BLnewt, I believe you've seen pictures before. However, I'll add them again for Black Betty.
#11
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Gavin, yep I've seen pics of your nice G
Every G seems to be unique as far as what can be done without camber help. Some techs seem to be able to get the most out of the OEM adjustment. If you have a copy of your alignment sheet to post that would help. If your camber is in the -1.6 to -2 range w/ good toe then you should expect reasonable wear, not as good as having camber around -1 but still pretty good.
Just keep a close eye on your inner tread wear when rotating tires, it can really surprise you sometimes you if you don't check it.
Every G seems to be unique as far as what can be done without camber help. Some techs seem to be able to get the most out of the OEM adjustment. If you have a copy of your alignment sheet to post that would help. If your camber is in the -1.6 to -2 range w/ good toe then you should expect reasonable wear, not as good as having camber around -1 but still pretty good.
Just keep a close eye on your inner tread wear when rotating tires, it can really surprise you sometimes you if you don't check it.
#12
Registered User
Gavin, yep I've seen pics of your nice G
Every G seems to be unique as far as what can be done without camber help. Some techs seem to be able to get the most out of the OEM adjustment. If you have a copy of your alignment sheet to post that would help. If your camber is in the -1.6 to -2 range w/ good toe then you should expect reasonable wear, not as good as having camber around -1 but still pretty good.
Just keep a close eye on your inner tread wear when rotating tires, it can really surprise you sometimes you if you don't check it.
Every G seems to be unique as far as what can be done without camber help. Some techs seem to be able to get the most out of the OEM adjustment. If you have a copy of your alignment sheet to post that would help. If your camber is in the -1.6 to -2 range w/ good toe then you should expect reasonable wear, not as good as having camber around -1 but still pretty good.
Just keep a close eye on your inner tread wear when rotating tires, it can really surprise you sometimes you if you don't check it.
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G37sGraphite (04-26-2016)