The G37S is a great track car
#31
The RE050A's on the car at the moment at 140 treadwear and they are MILES harder than the RE-71R's I had on my miata. I felt the RE-71R's were more like an R-comp in disguse and I guess my concern was that the extra weight on a relatively small tyre (I will be keeping stock rims, so 245 front and 265 rear) would just wear away the soft tyre too quickly.
I also don't want to over tyre the car, the stock suspension probably won't like it too much and will reduce enjoyment rather than add, plus it's a daily and I'm in Houston (I never knew what rain was until I moved here!) so I will go with your advice on the RE-11s then, sounds like what I'm looking for. Thanks!
I also don't want to over tyre the car, the stock suspension probably won't like it too much and will reduce enjoyment rather than add, plus it's a daily and I'm in Houston (I never knew what rain was until I moved here!) so I will go with your advice on the RE-11s then, sounds like what I'm looking for. Thanks!
#34
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
As for air to the brakes, you can just cut a hole in the inside of the front fender liners. In the coupe sport front bumper, you can remove the dummy hole-blockers on the sides of the front fascia, and it is sealed off on the inner side against the radiator. That means that if you have a hole taking in air from the front, and a vent in the inner side of the wheel well, there is no where else for the air to go other than OUT of the front wheel wells past the brakes. It's not ducting, but it kept my brakes cool with Carbotech XP12/10 and RBF 660 fluid. I also have an oil cooler in the driver's side vent hole, let me see if I can get some pics...
Here is a shot of the hole on the driver's side:
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/
(Sorry for the links, the pics didn't upload for some reason.)
Here is a shot of the hole on the driver's side:
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/
(Sorry for the links, the pics didn't upload for some reason.)
Last edited by RadioFlyer; 04-13-2016 at 06:59 PM.
#36
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Shame about how easy it is to get access behind the fog lights, I thought that would be a great spot too! I spoke with Infiniti in an effort to get some spare fog light surrounds to use to make up a ducting kit and they wanted $200 per light.... So, I'm going to zip tie some ram ducts in front of the radiator and pipe through to the brakes.
COTA, with the Ultimate Street Car Challenge.
COTA, with the Ultimate Street Car Challenge.
#37
Shame about how easy it is to get access behind the fog lights, I thought that would be a great spot too! I spoke with Infiniti in an effort to get some spare fog light surrounds to use to make up a ducting kit and they wanted $200 per light.... So, I'm going to zip tie some ram ducts in front of the radiator and pipe through to the brakes.
COTA, with the Ultimate Street Car Challenge.
COTA, with the Ultimate Street Car Challenge.
Take some pics when you get these set up. I am curious to see where you run the tubing. If you have a infrared heat light you should try running one session with one duct blocked off to see the difference in temps. I ran without any ducts on Sun. and the brakes actually held up pretty well.
I can relate to the fog light issue. I had an '09 STI that I had to remove the fog lights for track days and then replaced them w/ naca ducts to send air to the brakes. It was a slick set up and not too much of a PITA to swap over.
#38
As for air to the brakes, you can just cut a hole in the inside of the front fender liners. In the coupe sport front bumper, you can remove the dummy hole-blockers on the sides of the front fascia, and it is sealed off on the inner side against the radiator. That means that if you have a hole taking in air from the front, and a vent in the inner side of the wheel well, there is no where else for the air to go other than OUT of the front wheel wells past the brakes. It's not ducting, but it kept my brakes cool with Carbotech XP12/10 and RBF 660 fluid. I also have an oil cooler in the driver's side vent hole, let me see if I can get some pics...
Here is a shot of the hole on the driver's side:
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/
(Sorry for the links, the pics didn't upload for some reason.)
Here is a shot of the hole on the driver's side:
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/
https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a...D720/ry%3D480/
(Sorry for the links, the pics didn't upload for some reason.)
#39
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Take some pics when you get these set up. I am curious to see where you run the tubing. If you have a infrared heat light you should try running one session with one duct blocked off to see the difference in temps. I ran without any ducts on Sun. and the brakes actually held up pretty well.
I can relate to the fog light issue. I had an '09 STI that I had to remove the fog lights for track days and then replaced them w/ naca ducts to send air to the brakes. It was a slick set up and not too much of a PITA to swap over.
I can relate to the fog light issue. I had an '09 STI that I had to remove the fog lights for track days and then replaced them w/ naca ducts to send air to the brakes. It was a slick set up and not too much of a PITA to swap over.
Project 370z - Stillen brake duct kit install and testing
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ing-ducts.html
I'm going to purchase proper brake cooling ducts, but this guy has the right attitude for getting the air in to the rotor with some pipe hammered to shape and bolted using the wheel hub bolts.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension...-20-bucks.html
#40
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
I think the G is a great track car too. We had a recent Cars & Coffee meet and went on a 40+ mile cruise afterwards. There were about 50 cars on the cruise, anything from Vettes, Ferraris, R8's, S4's, Mustangs, SLK AMG, M3's a couple Z's and me in my coupe. There were 3 checkpoints and by the 3rd checkpoint there was only an R8, a Vette, the SLK AMG and me waiting around for almost 15 minutes for the others to catch up. We all went full ***** through the Ozark mountains and I had no problem keeping up with the stock Sport suspension. To be honest, the only car that was even competitive in the turns was the AMG Mercedes. Don't have to believe me but everyone was thoroughly surprised and was positive I had numerous suspension/engine mods. I can attest to the G-Force COMP2 tires helping a ton but a stock car is a stock car. These G's are beasts in the corners and no slouch in the straights.
#41
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
Probably not as effective as ducting aiming the air directly at the inside center of the rotors, but it might help. I would think a lot of the air would get sucked around the wheels from the movement, but maybe not. Did you take any temps with one side open and one side blocked off?
And I agree that obviously, it would be better to have a duct there, but for my car, on street tires, and just Koni/Swifts, basically a street car, it's totally fine for the one-off track days that she sees.
The other thing to consider, if you're tracking the car, is to get a vented hood. It helps a lot to let air OUT after going into the radiator/oil cooler. The cheap alternative is to run without the undertray, no undertray is worth about 7-10 degrees in water temp.
#42
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Hood venting works for sure, but then REDUCING air flow by using large blocking plates and proper radiator airflow ducting will work to get temps down too
Given my 0 engine mods, I'm going to go with oil cooler and brake cooling as priority #1. Cooling the brakes will also help with pad wear, and at the $$$ of the carbotech combo, I'm happy to save some money if I can.
#43
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
^ True, but if you're on the stock radiator, a little less front downforce is more fun than limp mode on a track day. You could always wait until you go into limp mode and then take it off for the next session. I didn't have the limp mode problem (CSF Triple Pass radiator), but supposedly, these cars go into limp mode right away under track use.
#45
I'm just going to follow the way the 370 boys do it. Some good pics for example here:
Project 370z - Stillen brake duct kit install and testing
DIY - Brake Cooling Ducts - Nissan 370Z Forum
I'm going to purchase proper brake cooling ducts, but this guy has the right attitude for getting the air in to the rotor with some pipe hammered to shape and bolted using the wheel hub bolts.
DIY Brake Ducts for less then 20 bucks - LS1TECH
Project 370z - Stillen brake duct kit install and testing
DIY - Brake Cooling Ducts - Nissan 370Z Forum
I'm going to purchase proper brake cooling ducts, but this guy has the right attitude for getting the air in to the rotor with some pipe hammered to shape and bolted using the wheel hub bolts.
DIY Brake Ducts for less then 20 bucks - LS1TECH
No I didn't take any comparison tests. I'm not worried about it - did five 25 min sessions where I was braking from just under 140 to about 50mph at the end of the straights. Braking wasn't an issue.
And I agree that obviously, it would be better to have a duct there, but for my car, on street tires, and just Koni/Swifts, basically a street car, it's totally fine for the one-off track days that she sees.
The other thing to consider, if you're tracking the car, is to get a vented hood. It helps a lot to let air OUT after going into the radiator/oil cooler. The cheap alternative is to run without the undertray, no undertray is worth about 7-10 degrees in water temp.
And I agree that obviously, it would be better to have a duct there, but for my car, on street tires, and just Koni/Swifts, basically a street car, it's totally fine for the one-off track days that she sees.
The other thing to consider, if you're tracking the car, is to get a vented hood. It helps a lot to let air OUT after going into the radiator/oil cooler. The cheap alternative is to run without the undertray, no undertray is worth about 7-10 degrees in water temp.
I bet hood vents would help a ton if I had plates to close them when I was not at the track. Then again, it seemed to hold up will with the oil cooler.