new to the forum
#1
Thread Starter
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 590
From: People's Republic of IL
You'd be getting yourself into a nissan instead of a honda
Car is relatively bullet proof with some occasional issues.
* The clutch slave cylinder fails occasionally on the MT models
* the automatic suffers from some gear hunting, thought that's been mostly fixed in the 2012 model and there are some tsb's about the issue for the old ones.
Maintenance is simple and cheap compared to other luxury brands. The MT already comes with a short throw shifter.
Post more specific information if you want more specific details
Enjoy!
Car is relatively bullet proof with some occasional issues.
* The clutch slave cylinder fails occasionally on the MT models
* the automatic suffers from some gear hunting, thought that's been mostly fixed in the 2012 model and there are some tsb's about the issue for the old ones.
Maintenance is simple and cheap compared to other luxury brands. The MT already comes with a short throw shifter.
Post more specific information if you want more specific details
Enjoy!
#3
new to the forum
whats going on guys, my name is sal and im new here to myg37. ive been lurking for a little while now researching and just trying to figure if i def want a g37 or not. as of right now it seems likely that in the near future il be purchasing a g37s. As of right now i am a Acura Rsx owner, and member of clubrsx. ive done some tasteful mods nothing crazy just exhaust, intake, cross drilled rotors, LEDs in the interior, retro fitted headlights, mugen rear lip kit, fogs, short shifter and wheel spacers. Id prob end up doing similar mods to the g37. what id like to know is what exactly id be getting myself into with the g37s. i obviously know its a rwd car compared to my fwd rsx and the it has a ton more options compared to my bland/simple acura. How is insurance on this car? Are there any common problems that would lead me away from purchasing a g? all info is much appreciated thanks!
#5
Thread Starter
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 590
From: People's Republic of IL
Something strange going on with the server time. This reply is being made at 2:07pm CDT
Replacing the CSC (slave cyl) requires dropping the trans. A heavy duty aftermarket unit is somewhere around $125-175 if memory serves. Labor, figure at least 4-5 hours. $$ This is a good time to replace the clutch itself too.
Are you looking at new or used? If used, I'd guess most failures would fall into the over 25K miles on the odo, though some have happened earlier, others are still on their original. This part is covered under the factory 4yr/60K mile warranty, but no power train.
Replacing the CSC (slave cyl) requires dropping the trans. A heavy duty aftermarket unit is somewhere around $125-175 if memory serves. Labor, figure at least 4-5 hours. $$ This is a good time to replace the clutch itself too.
Are you looking at new or used? If used, I'd guess most failures would fall into the over 25K miles on the odo, though some have happened earlier, others are still on their original. This part is covered under the factory 4yr/60K mile warranty, but no power train.
#6
Something strange going on with the server time. This reply is being made at 2:07pm CDT
Replacing the CSC (slave cyl) requires dropping the trans. A heavy duty aftermarket unit is somewhere around $125-175 if memory serves. Labor, figure at least 4-5 hours. $$ This is a good time to replace the clutch itself too.
Are you looking at new or used? If used, I'd guess most failures would fall into the over 25K miles on the odo, though some have happened earlier, others are still on their original. This part is covered under the factory 4yr/60K mile warranty, but no power train.
Replacing the CSC (slave cyl) requires dropping the trans. A heavy duty aftermarket unit is somewhere around $125-175 if memory serves. Labor, figure at least 4-5 hours. $$ This is a good time to replace the clutch itself too.
Are you looking at new or used? If used, I'd guess most failures would fall into the over 25K miles on the odo, though some have happened earlier, others are still on their original. This part is covered under the factory 4yr/60K mile warranty, but no power train.
so ur talking right around $5-600 total for replacement of the CSC. the exact car im currently looking at is a 2009 g37s with 34k. Id also like to know what is the fair market price for that year. the dealership is looking for $27000 and said they would throw in new tires and brake pads along with the usual detail. i just drove the car for the first time and completely fell in love. i just dont want to make any drastic decisions based on emotion.
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#8
Thread Starter
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 590
From: People's Republic of IL
Higher than most cars... 3/4's of the way up? It's a pretty high uptake (with a small friction zone window to boot).
I'm completely the wrong person to discuss numbers - I bought mine new and haven't really been keeping track of what used ones are going for. Do your research using various sites. Use the search function on here, this question has been asked before.
As for the slave cyl, that was one of the reasons I got the extended warranty on mine. Might be something to think about too. It makes sense to do a complete clutch job including the flywheel/pressure plate/friction disc (and slave) when doing one. Also, depending on miles, replacing the master isn't out of the question either. ~$2K for everything.
Proper new tires alone will run you at least $1K. Is the dealer offering to put on some crappy all seasons, or stock re050a's (or some other summer only tire). Brake pads front and rear will also prob cost at least $500+ (oem parts) inc parts/labor. To get a clear picture you need to know what exactly they'll be putting on.
OR, have them leave the car as is, but deduct a suitable $$ from the offer price. Get the exact tires/brakes you want yourself.
Also, we still don't know if you're referring to a coupe or sedan??? As a sedan owner, my perspective is different than that of a coupe owner
I'm completely the wrong person to discuss numbers - I bought mine new and haven't really been keeping track of what used ones are going for. Do your research using various sites. Use the search function on here, this question has been asked before.
As for the slave cyl, that was one of the reasons I got the extended warranty on mine. Might be something to think about too. It makes sense to do a complete clutch job including the flywheel/pressure plate/friction disc (and slave) when doing one. Also, depending on miles, replacing the master isn't out of the question either. ~$2K for everything.
Proper new tires alone will run you at least $1K. Is the dealer offering to put on some crappy all seasons, or stock re050a's (or some other summer only tire). Brake pads front and rear will also prob cost at least $500+ (oem parts) inc parts/labor. To get a clear picture you need to know what exactly they'll be putting on.
OR, have them leave the car as is, but deduct a suitable $$ from the offer price. Get the exact tires/brakes you want yourself.
Also, we still don't know if you're referring to a coupe or sedan??? As a sedan owner, my perspective is different than that of a coupe owner
#9
The heavy duty CSC is $325. Plus 5 hours labor. Proably close to $1k to replace it at dealership labor rates.
Yes, the release/engagement point for the clutch is pretty high and the engagement is relatively abrupt.
Yes, the release/engagement point for the clutch is pretty high and the engagement is relatively abrupt.
#10
Thread Starter
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 590
From: People's Republic of IL
^^ I was thinking of the master cyl at $125. Could of sworn the csc's were cheaper. Maybe not [anymore] --- ZSpeed Performance Replacment HD Clutch CSC Heavy Duty Slave Cylinder Kit
#12
Higher than most cars... 3/4's of the way up? It's a pretty high uptake (with a small friction zone window to boot).
I'm completely the wrong person to discuss numbers - I bought mine new and haven't really been keeping track of what used ones are going for. Do your research using various sites. Use the search function on here, this question has been asked before.
As for the slave cyl, that was one of the reasons I got the extended warranty on mine. Might be something to think about too. It makes sense to do a complete clutch job including the flywheel/pressure plate/friction disc (and slave) when doing one. Also, depending on miles, replacing the master isn't out of the question either. ~$2K for everything.
Proper new tires alone will run you at least $1K. Is the dealer offering to put on some crappy all seasons, or stock re050a's (or some other summer only tire). Brake pads front and rear will also prob cost at least $500+ (oem parts) inc parts/labor. To get a clear picture you need to know what exactly they'll be putting on.
OR, have them leave the car as is, but deduct a suitable $$ from the offer price. Get the exact tires/brakes you want yourself.
Also, we still don't know if you're referring to a coupe or sedan??? As a sedan owner, my perspective is different than that of a coupe owner
I'm completely the wrong person to discuss numbers - I bought mine new and haven't really been keeping track of what used ones are going for. Do your research using various sites. Use the search function on here, this question has been asked before.
As for the slave cyl, that was one of the reasons I got the extended warranty on mine. Might be something to think about too. It makes sense to do a complete clutch job including the flywheel/pressure plate/friction disc (and slave) when doing one. Also, depending on miles, replacing the master isn't out of the question either. ~$2K for everything.
Proper new tires alone will run you at least $1K. Is the dealer offering to put on some crappy all seasons, or stock re050a's (or some other summer only tire). Brake pads front and rear will also prob cost at least $500+ (oem parts) inc parts/labor. To get a clear picture you need to know what exactly they'll be putting on.
OR, have them leave the car as is, but deduct a suitable $$ from the offer price. Get the exact tires/brakes you want yourself.
Also, we still don't know if you're referring to a coupe or sedan??? As a sedan owner, my perspective is different than that of a coupe owner
Talking to the dealership last night he stated that he would replace the tires with the re050a's and the brakes with oem pads and rotors. As i should of stated earlier ive been looking at a coupe not a sedan
#13
Thread Starter
Just say no!!!!!
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 590
From: People's Republic of IL
^^Price of admission. I'm not saying it will fail, but it's something to be aware of. The stock unit is plastic, and apparently longevity wasn't one of the design specs.
You either pay now with an extended warranty or later if/when the repair is needed. If it's not infiniti elite care, make sure the third party warranty covers this. Also, you don't have to take it to the dealer for this repair. Any competent repair shop should be able to handle it. Each car has its quirks. Consider the price of the car and decide if it's worth it.
Take a look at the clutch reservoir, if it's black or dark, the fluid was probably never changed.
RE050A's are decent for an oem summer tire. Expect 10-25K miles life, depending how you drive.
You either pay now with an extended warranty or later if/when the repair is needed. If it's not infiniti elite care, make sure the third party warranty covers this. Also, you don't have to take it to the dealer for this repair. Any competent repair shop should be able to handle it. Each car has its quirks. Consider the price of the car and decide if it's worth it.
Take a look at the clutch reservoir, if it's black or dark, the fluid was probably never changed.
RE050A's are decent for an oem summer tire. Expect 10-25K miles life, depending how you drive.