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Pics of Brake Ducts @ CVR by Fit Motorsports

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Old 11-03-2012 | 02:16 AM
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Pics of Brake Ducts @ CVR by Fit Motorsports

Now equipped with Brake Ducts, no brake fade and tons of fun.
























































Last edited by joo030879; 11-03-2012 at 02:53 AM.
Old 11-03-2012 | 07:40 PM
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Nice pics, how did you do compared to the other cars there ?
Old 11-04-2012 | 12:05 AM
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i like, can i see what they look like inside the fender
Old 11-05-2012 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnsVert
Nice pics, how did you do compared to the other cars there ?
I did not time myself, so don't know how I did compared to other cars. But even with ceramic Hawk Pads no fade.
Originally Posted by antiderivativez
i like, can i see what they look like inside the fender
Old 11-08-2012 | 04:22 PM
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are those 18" wheels? what brand/model?

outside wheels look reallllly small in that fender when turning.
Old 11-08-2012 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by harbin9er
are those 18" wheels? what brand/model?
Enkei NT03+M
18x9.5 +27 Front (now +22, running 5mm spacers to clear Akebonos)
18x10.5 +30 Rear
Originally Posted by harbin9er
outside wheels look reallllly small in that fender when turning.
-1" either very expensive Racing Compound for 19" Wheels. Most tire makers don't make 19" Tires using racing Compound. Yeah a lot of body roll with RS3's.
Old 11-08-2012 | 07:10 PM
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Hawk hps pads? What was ambient temp? Finally, how did you run the ducting and do you have pics of that?

Good work!
Old 11-08-2012 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ashmostro
Hawk hps pads?
Hawk makes three different brake pad compound.
1.HPS which is street pads good for street use.
2.Ceramic less noise and dust if you want to keep your wheels clean.
3.HP+ which is for hard driving with minor track use.
Originally Posted by ashmostro
What was ambient temp?
+-75 degrees
Originally Posted by ashmostro
how did you run the ducting and do you have pics of that?
No I don't have pictures of duct. However I made a hole on Wheel Skirt and ran duct behind the front suspension. +-6 foot of duct on each side.
Originally Posted by ashmostro
Good work!
Thanks
Old 11-08-2012 | 09:11 PM
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That's encouraging to know you were able to run ceramics with no fade just from adding ducts. Gives me a good feeling about my track day tomorrow using ET800 racingbrake pads, no ducting, ambient 55 degrees.

As for the ducts, let me rephrase the question... where are you running the ducts from? The fake side vents, or somewhere else?
Old 11-08-2012 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ashmostro
That's encouraging to know you were able to run ceramics with no fade just from adding ducts. Gives me a good feeling about my track day tomorrow using ET800 racingbrake pads, no ducting, ambient 55 degrees.

As for the ducts, let me rephrase the question... where are you running the ducts from? The fake side vents, or somewhere else?
Good Luck with you track day tomorrow. Yeah our car is slightly heavy and less power. So in order to keep up with other cars we need to brake late. Fading only comes after few laps without brake ducts.



Old 11-09-2012 | 06:48 AM
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Nice- thanks for posting that pic. I will see how it goes! I'm hoping the cooler temps and higher temp compound will help, along with the rbf600 fluid.
Old 11-09-2012 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ashmostro
Nice- thanks for posting that pic. I will see how it goes! I'm hoping the cooler temps and higher temp compound will help, along with the rbf600 fluid.
I use RBF 660 and already ordered Carbotech for next track event. Got to drive friend's G37S running Carbotech, and no fade even without ducts. Initial bite compared to HP+ night and day.

ET800 is not for use on the track.
Old 11-09-2012 | 09:12 PM
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Yep. i wanted to give them a shot to get a baseline, and while they never faded, they began to judder heavily as they got hotter with each lap. At the beginning of each stint, they felt great but by the end of the first lap, judder. I was still able to push hard and they did not fade at all.

The fluid did boil a bit i think, so after the second of four sessions I bled the fronts in the paddock and the problem went away.

Now I have to decide if I'm going to spend the money to get RB rotors that run cooler, but are not friendly with CTech pads, or CTech pads on EBC or DBA rotors- probably one piece due to my limited budget.

At least i don't have to decide that until next March. The ET800s are a great feeling street pad.
Old 12-26-2012 | 05:22 PM
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Try changing out the rotors you have and add these to the car. You'll run all day long with no brake fade and even stronger brake action from Racing Brake's 2-piece rotors. I can run these with no cooling ducts all day long and not have brake fade at Thunderhill. If you're going to be doing tracking a lot then the combo of brake ducts and rotors with the right pads is the trick. These rotors should stand up to any pads out there along with the heat. Not cheap but worth the price.

Al
Attached Thumbnails Pics of Brake Ducts @ CVR by Fit Motorsports-g37-front-rotor.jpg   Pics of Brake Ducts @ CVR by Fit Motorsports-g37-rear-rotor.jpg  
Old 12-27-2012 | 08:43 AM
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Like these?



I don't have the rear rotors though, and I don't think I'll get them. Will probably just run some slotted one-piece jobs. My rears never got that hot on the track.

As for pads, I'm thinking of either running Hawk Blues, or Project Mu Club Racer pad for track days. I'm going to use the racing pads on the street to remove the pad transfer layer before and after the track outing, as described quite reasonably on this page:
Essex - Learning Center - Know Brakes 2: Swapping Between Street and Race Brake Pads



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