G37 Time Attack Car??
06-24-2009, 04:57 PM
#18
The G's big downfall is the long wheelbase.... the car just doesn't want to rotate as quickly as those with shorter wheelbase.
Keep in mind, that too short a wheelbase is a detriment as well, as the car rotates TOO readily, and is prone to loss of control.
Keep in mind, that too short a wheelbase is a detriment as well, as the car rotates TOO readily, and is prone to loss of control.
06-25-2009, 08:48 AM
#22
Cheap weight reduction:
Replace exhaust with stainless steel straightpipes from the cat back, custom bent with exhaust hangers. Rough cost: 200.
Replace stock Driver's seat with lightweight buckets. Replace stock seat rails with lowering rails. Rough Cost: 500
Gut Interior. Gut out as little or as much as you like. Take AC out from the engine bay for improved weight balance and a lot of weight. Cost: Free
Replace Moonroof glass with fixed aluminum, or even a carbon fiber piece. Drops a lot weight, and lower center of gravity. Cost: 300+ (Colormatched)
Take off engine cover damper (the big black thing on the bottom of your hood) Cost: Free
Minor fender flare. Lets you fit more rim/tire in your wheel wells. Cost: 200+
Get a set of lightweight track wheels. (Enkei RPF1 comes to mind if you want cheap. Smaller = lighter, and likely more/cheaper tire selection). Cost: 1000+
Get a good set of tires. (Most "ultra high performance" street tires come in sizes up to 18". Some come in larger sizes. Look into tires before committing to a rim.) Cost: 600+
High(er) temperature brake pads. You'll likely need em. Porterfield, Cobalt, Carbotech, etc. Pads will be out soon, if not already, since the Z is out now. Cost: 300+
Coilovers. Preferably 2 way. 4 way if you really want to spend 6k+ on your suspension. EDFC if you like convenience. Cost: 1600+
Front Splitter. APR will makes you a custom one. Cost: 400
Front Canards. Cost: 200
Rear Spoiler. Tacky looking, depending on your taste, but VERY functional at speed. Cost: 500+
Camber Kits (Front and rear): 500(?)
Alignment: 100.
LSD. Not the drug. Limited slip differential. Works with VDC if you don't set it too aggressive. Works like VDC, except it doesn't slow you down by locking rear wheels together when they lose traction; raises the limit of your car. Cost: 1000+
GPS Datalogger. Allows you to see your laps on a computer, and see where you brake, where you accelerate, etc. Awesome tool for improving. Cost: 800+
Camera(s) + Camera mount(s). So you can review your line afterwards. Cost: 200+ (for 1 HD capable camera and mount).
Safety Mods:
6 point harness (requires harness bar or cage). Cost: ~300. DO NOT use this street driving. If you do, make sure to get a quick release type, and mark it VERY clearly how to get you out in case something happens. Typical first responders do not know how to operate a harness. You can leave the factory 3 point and use that with the bucket.
Bolt-in Harness Bar. Cost: 600+ (since this will be custom).
Or, Rollcage. Cost: 2000+. Make sure the cage is built to NASA/SCCA standards, so that you can drive it in other events
Fire extinguisher. Cost: 30
Good Helmet SA2005. Cost: 300+
HANS Device. This will save your life if you crash into a wall. (Not needed unless you go to track where that is a possibility). Cost: 600+
Racing Suit. Flame/heat resistant. Cost: 400+
Cool Suit. Keeps you cool when it's hot without leeching power and creating heat with your AC. Cost: 500+
Maintenance/Preventative Mods
Accusump + install. Prevents blown engine from oil starvation (You already did this, but I don't think they'll warranty a gutted car....) Cost: 400
Baffled oil pan. Helps keep oil available for oil pump to suck in. Assists in keeping your oil accumulater filled. Cost: 250
Oil. I use Motul. And check it between every session. I also send it in for analysis. Cost: ~110 (including analysis) at Riverside. Get 300V.
Brake Fluid. RBF600. Change every 3-4 months if you're going to be driving hard regularly. Cost: ~25 (fluid only)
Tranny Fluid. Change every 15k or less if you're driving hard. I'd recommend every 3-4 track days if you're pushing the car. Cost: (no idea)
All other fluids: Change annually.
Misc:
Tools. Basic set will do. Cost: 100
Floor Jack. Get a nice aluminum one as you'll be taking this to the track with you. Cost: 150+
Jack stands. 2 pairs. Cost: 30+ (70ish for aluminum ones).
Brake Power Bleeder. Cost: 60.
Tubing for bleeding brakes. Cost: 3
Torque Wrench 1/2" drive. Cost: 40+
Breaker Bar 1/2" drive. Cost: 10
Deep 19mm socket and plastic/nylon sleeve. Cost: 10
Cordless Impact, battery(s), charger. Cost: 60+
Driving Gloves. Cost: 30+
Driving Shoes. Cost: 40+
Sunglasses (like you really need another pair....) that fit in the helmet. Cost: 30+
Magnetic Numbers. Unless you get CF doors. Cost: $30.
Blue tape. Lots of blue tape. Cases of it. If you want to keep your car looking somewhat decent. Or, it may end up being cheaper to just get a new bumper later if you go through enough tape. Yeah, skip the tape.
Replace exhaust with stainless steel straightpipes from the cat back, custom bent with exhaust hangers. Rough cost: 200.
Replace stock Driver's seat with lightweight buckets. Replace stock seat rails with lowering rails. Rough Cost: 500
Gut Interior. Gut out as little or as much as you like. Take AC out from the engine bay for improved weight balance and a lot of weight. Cost: Free
Replace Moonroof glass with fixed aluminum, or even a carbon fiber piece. Drops a lot weight, and lower center of gravity. Cost: 300+ (Colormatched)
Take off engine cover damper (the big black thing on the bottom of your hood) Cost: Free
Minor fender flare. Lets you fit more rim/tire in your wheel wells. Cost: 200+
Get a set of lightweight track wheels. (Enkei RPF1 comes to mind if you want cheap. Smaller = lighter, and likely more/cheaper tire selection). Cost: 1000+
Get a good set of tires. (Most "ultra high performance" street tires come in sizes up to 18". Some come in larger sizes. Look into tires before committing to a rim.) Cost: 600+
High(er) temperature brake pads. You'll likely need em. Porterfield, Cobalt, Carbotech, etc. Pads will be out soon, if not already, since the Z is out now. Cost: 300+
Coilovers. Preferably 2 way. 4 way if you really want to spend 6k+ on your suspension. EDFC if you like convenience. Cost: 1600+
Front Splitter. APR will makes you a custom one. Cost: 400
Front Canards. Cost: 200
Rear Spoiler. Tacky looking, depending on your taste, but VERY functional at speed. Cost: 500+
Camber Kits (Front and rear): 500(?)
Alignment: 100.
LSD. Not the drug. Limited slip differential. Works with VDC if you don't set it too aggressive. Works like VDC, except it doesn't slow you down by locking rear wheels together when they lose traction; raises the limit of your car. Cost: 1000+
GPS Datalogger. Allows you to see your laps on a computer, and see where you brake, where you accelerate, etc. Awesome tool for improving. Cost: 800+
Camera(s) + Camera mount(s). So you can review your line afterwards. Cost: 200+ (for 1 HD capable camera and mount).
Safety Mods:
6 point harness (requires harness bar or cage). Cost: ~300. DO NOT use this street driving. If you do, make sure to get a quick release type, and mark it VERY clearly how to get you out in case something happens. Typical first responders do not know how to operate a harness. You can leave the factory 3 point and use that with the bucket.
Bolt-in Harness Bar. Cost: 600+ (since this will be custom).
Or, Rollcage. Cost: 2000+. Make sure the cage is built to NASA/SCCA standards, so that you can drive it in other events
Fire extinguisher. Cost: 30
Good Helmet SA2005. Cost: 300+
HANS Device. This will save your life if you crash into a wall. (Not needed unless you go to track where that is a possibility). Cost: 600+
Racing Suit. Flame/heat resistant. Cost: 400+
Cool Suit. Keeps you cool when it's hot without leeching power and creating heat with your AC. Cost: 500+
Maintenance/Preventative Mods
Accusump + install. Prevents blown engine from oil starvation (You already did this, but I don't think they'll warranty a gutted car....) Cost: 400
Baffled oil pan. Helps keep oil available for oil pump to suck in. Assists in keeping your oil accumulater filled. Cost: 250
Oil. I use Motul. And check it between every session. I also send it in for analysis. Cost: ~110 (including analysis) at Riverside. Get 300V.
Brake Fluid. RBF600. Change every 3-4 months if you're going to be driving hard regularly. Cost: ~25 (fluid only)
Tranny Fluid. Change every 15k or less if you're driving hard. I'd recommend every 3-4 track days if you're pushing the car. Cost: (no idea)
All other fluids: Change annually.
Misc:
Tools. Basic set will do. Cost: 100
Floor Jack. Get a nice aluminum one as you'll be taking this to the track with you. Cost: 150+
Jack stands. 2 pairs. Cost: 30+ (70ish for aluminum ones).
Brake Power Bleeder. Cost: 60.
Tubing for bleeding brakes. Cost: 3
Torque Wrench 1/2" drive. Cost: 40+
Breaker Bar 1/2" drive. Cost: 10
Deep 19mm socket and plastic/nylon sleeve. Cost: 10
Cordless Impact, battery(s), charger. Cost: 60+
Driving Gloves. Cost: 30+
Driving Shoes. Cost: 40+
Sunglasses (like you really need another pair....) that fit in the helmet. Cost: 30+
Magnetic Numbers. Unless you get CF doors. Cost: $30.
Blue tape. Lots of blue tape. Cases of it. If you want to keep your car looking somewhat decent. Or, it may end up being cheaper to just get a new bumper later if you go through enough tape. Yeah, skip the tape.
Last edited by Mike; 06-25-2009 at 09:07 AM.
06-25-2009, 04:06 PM
#28
I wouldn't go as far as getting carbon kevlar seats yet, as the return on your $$$ diminishes very quickly once you get past a basic bucket seat.
Even the most basic one will be a HUGE weight reduction, since you're taking all the power seat crap out. From there, tripling the cost will reduce weight an extra 10 pounds? Not worth it, yet.
Improving your exit speed by 2 mph in 1 corner will have a bigger difference on your lap times. Work on the driver mod first. Get as much track time as possible
I'll be going to Laguna Seca next month
Even the most basic one will be a HUGE weight reduction, since you're taking all the power seat crap out. From there, tripling the cost will reduce weight an extra 10 pounds? Not worth it, yet.
Improving your exit speed by 2 mph in 1 corner will have a bigger difference on your lap times. Work on the driver mod first. Get as much track time as possible
I'll be going to Laguna Seca next month
06-27-2009, 06:19 AM
#30
AC will save you ~50 lbs (and also reduce moment of inertia, improve cooling, and improve weight balance). I'm assuming you're keeping the fans and just removing the cooling portion.
Racing seat should save you between 40-60 lbs by my estimation; I'm pretty sure the stock seats and all their motors are fairly heavy. BMW ones are close to 80 lbs.
Make sure the seat you get not only fits you interms of bolsters, but also make sure the openings for a harness are in the right position.
Racing seat should save you between 40-60 lbs by my estimation; I'm pretty sure the stock seats and all their motors are fairly heavy. BMW ones are close to 80 lbs.
Make sure the seat you get not only fits you interms of bolsters, but also make sure the openings for a harness are in the right position.