For those of you who are in the same boat as me, don't want FI to keep drive-ability, what mods are you guys doing to pump out all the power you can from the N/A motor?

Iv got the basic upgrades of HFC and catback. I decided to go on the cheaper route and get just K&N filters instead of a whole new CAI setup because from my research augmenting a CAI to a HFC + cat back setup only adds 2 - 5 HP.

What do you guys think about CAI + HFC + cat back? Also what other mods have you found to make a difference?

 

CAI, Test pipes & CB, UpRev tune, Pulley Set, 4.08 gears

By then you would've spent more than a SC kit wouldve costed you, and gained barely one third as much.

Just my 2 cents

 

^ Labor will rape you plus there's other important supporting mods. Clutch, tune to make sure your air/fuels are correct, and some type of exhaust to relieve some back pressure. Centrifugal chargers have a tendency for their bearings to go out if you don't have a free flowing exhaust. The charger is working harder and getting choked up because it's bringing in all this air without the ability to push it out.


It's like eating a burrito while you're constipated

 

how much is a SC? those mods dont sound that expensive

 

this.

you arent comparing equally

NA bolt ons < s/c kit
NA bolt on TUNE < s/c TUNE
NA bolt on labor < s/c labor

 

Let's price this out shall we (not including shipping or labor)

N/A Power Mods
Stillen Exhaust = $1,155
Stillen CAI = $500
Stillen UD Pulley + Belt = $235
Test Pipes = $200
Uprev Tune = $500 (local price)
Engine Oil Cooler = $380

Total = $2,970
Power Gain = 40whp (average)


F/I Power Mods
Stillen Supercharger = $5,900
ACT Clutch = $630
HKS Camp 2 (+ all required sensors) = $1,300
Engine Oil Cooler = $380

Total = $8,210
Power Gain = 150whp

 

So with F/I: $1 yields 0.018270401948842874543239951278928 WHP
N/A mods: $1 yields 0.013468013468013468013468013468013 WHP
hahaha

I know your figures are less than scientific LOL, but thx for the input. I wish i could blow the $ on F/I!

 

Roughly triple the money for roughly triple the HP. Just depends on your situation which way to go.

 

True, but with NA you're limited to that power, with FI you can always turn up the boost, bigger IC, bigger SC/turbo, etc.

 

Yeah, just saying for some people that 3x price tag isn't an option.

As with anything you get what you pay for (not saying N/A bolt ons are low quality at all) but obviously with that much more $$ on the table the gains will be a lot more.

 

The limited power with N/A is exactly why i'm choosing to stay N/A. I bought the G37 to have a very good daily driver, amazing luxury, very fun vehicle to fool around with, and can beat a majority of the cars that go to the drag strip. With changing the clutch and possibly flywheel, personally, I feel you lose that luxury and daily driver feel.

I'm not trying to say people who are going with FI have made the wrong decision. It is just they are looking to get something different from their car than I am.

There is no doubt that a SC or TT is the most power per dollar.