I'm telling you there are better ways to spend $$$, I live in LA and while it's hot an oil or tranny cooler isn't needed on the car unless you're tracking it alot or it's HIGHLY modified..

 

until now I thought limp mode only comes from Oil Temperature. After reading this post, I wonder can limp mode caused by Transmission oil Temp as well? Thank you for your thoughts, and if anyone have proven scientific knowledge please let me know. I do take my G37S coupe out on the track once a month. And every time I go, I get limp mode.

 

^I've wondered this too. Becuase every time I go to the track and run for a while the first thing that it starts cutting me back on is my downshifts, not the rev limit. Usually when the temp increases it decreases your rev limit, but I never noticed my temp gauge rise. After a few laps of easier shifting it goes away and and can down shift aggressivly again.

 

I have the Stillen oil cooler and transmission cooler. I have went to the track once with these so far. No limp mode. I would recommend these if you drive hard, do canyon runs, track, etc..etc.. For daily driving in hot weather, the car just seems to run a tad bit stronger even with the air conditioning on.

 

I guess you are having too much fun at the track. Me too. During mid summer Limp mode starts at my 4th and 5th lap. On a 2.75 Mile coarse. I shift early, try not to use 2nd gear at all. Less fun but I can still manage to keep my brain cooled until I get flagged to point by. Than my brain gets hot again, and I put my car into limp mode.

I am trying to put together a Oil cooler KIT, with help from my expert friends. Instead of paying $$$ to aftermarket, name brand, KITS. I am going to use better parts, for less. Buying them separate, and keeping the cost under Three hundred.

First I am going to make a Oil Cooler Kit, Only. Take to the track few times and see how it performs. I have a device to measure Oil Temperature. At the track around 280 degrees Limp mode kicks in. Which according to MG37 experts, will make Oil acidic and ruin the engine. If I am successful I will post DIY. So other members can enjoy their track day. Document everything and post them right here. Wish me LUCK.

One more thing to consider, I am using Motul 300V, it is expensive. But when I check before and after track. Compared to Ester Oil, the color and texture is better preserved. Since I go to track once a month, I change oil every 3000 miles. I intend to give my G37 Sport to my son, he is almost 7 now, but he's washing the car every weekend. Since I told him the car is his 10 year later. Well modified, and maintained. @2 1/2 bottle at $21 is very expensive, but it is cheapest I could find in So Cal.

 

Winter is coming... we gotta be able to survive 110+ ambient temps at BW/WSIR before I'd declare any success

 

Good luck man. I'm very interested in seeing the results.

 

First and foremost is to purchase OIL COOLER. Just received them yesterday.

Setrab, series 6 oil cooler, 16 row. I was recommended by my friends that bigger is not better. Since the mount goes in front of Radiator, you don't want to block too much. All agree 16 row should be plenty.

Setrab oil coolers are made in Sweden, and they supply Oil Coolers to various racing teams worldwide. You may find cheaper brand, but if you want quality and most value for your buck. Setrab is the best. Most Aftermarket Oil coolers start at $80, I bought my Setrab for $150 shipped. So getting other brand which are cheaper will not affect too much on your total budget. I will post pictures later today. Setrab 6 series 16 row, price may vary between $160 - $250, online. However with some effort I bought for $150 shipped to me. I will post further details later on today about where I bought, my Setrab.

Setrab Oil Cooler

Other Oil Cooler


My project will take longer, because I am like most people in this forum. Have to get best value, for lowest price possible. So be patient and I will try to finish ASAP.

 

Setrab Series 6, 16 row oil cooler. $145 Shipped.

Bought from eBay seller. Setrab is made in Sweden and it is best oil cooler out there.

8AN 90 Degree Double Swivel Hose End - Anodize from sweet performance. $16.94 each you need two.

8AN 45 Degree Double Swivel Hose End - Anodize also from sweet performance. $16.94 each you need two.

You have option of using 8AN or 10AN. We chose 8AN, no special reason. But make sure to fit all hose and hose ends to match the size. Make sure to use Anodized hose ends.

8AN Stainless Steel Braided Hose - $6.50 per foot from sweet performance. We used 6ft, but I recommend 8ft. All aftermarket oil cooler kits use, nylon hose. But we opted for stainless steel for protection against rocks and debris.


Mocal Hi Flow Sandwich Plate Thermostat BSP Adaptors, $95 shipped from eBay Seller.


Oil Cooler $145
Anodize Hose Ends (x4) $67.76
Stainless Steel Hose 6ft $39
Mocal Hi-Flo T adapter $95
10AN to 8AN adapter (x2) $20

Total cost before tax $366.76

After acquire, all item above fitting is pretty easy. Almost

1. Remove bumber
2. Fit 90 degree hose ends on Sandwich adapters
3. Run hose up and over intake duct.
4. Secure oil cooler in front of radiator. I ran holes through center steel post and secured with some bolt. But there are brackets out there.
5. fasten 45 degree hose ends to the oil cooler.

we have originally planned to place the oil cooler on the driver side of the vehicle. However 3 ft stainless hose we bought forced us to move the oil cooler over to passenger side. Oil filter is closer to the passenger side of the G37.


Yes we are lucky, one of our friend owns a service center. So we got to use his.


Drain all you oil before any fitting


Remove oil filter and fit the thermostat sandwich adapter


Run the hose over and through intake duct.


Make sure to adjust angle of the oil cooler so the hose nor the ends touch other parts of the car. We fitted our between front sway bar and ignition motor on top. It is tight.








For now at the street, I am not able to test. However December 20, 2009. I will be attending track event at the SpeedVentures. I will post Oil Temperatures through the track event. Wish me luck.

 

Wow, excellent write up. You should consider creating a new thread in the DIY section for more people to see. It would probably also become stickied too. I might have to attempt this over my christmas break.

 

There is a really good DIY on another site for the 370Z.... All-in-all, the GTM is a pretty good deal. You can maybe save $50 buying the components yourself.

Link: Modshack DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>. - Nissan 370Z Forum

 

Yes savings are not much. We are not dealing with expensive product. My thought is if I am going to re-route oil out side the engine, I would want to use best, reliable, and strong parts as possible. To minimize failure. For example a ruptured or leacking hose may end your engine.