MODDING 411 Aftermarket Parts Available for the G37: What's Good, What's Not, Where to Go etc.

? horsepower gain question ?

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Old 08-14-2008, 04:05 AM
  #16  
bboysteele
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Originally Posted by AZg37
intakes have nothing to do with the SES lights people have been getting. The HFC are the only mod that might trip the SES, and a simple reset of your A/F ratio values that your car learned while being stock will eliminate any future problems with the light being tripped. Your electronics just need to get used to the increased flow and different A/F ratio values.
Not exactly right due to the fact that Intakes will (at least the JWT) make the AF leaner along with other mods on the car. It does seem that you need to have HFCs to get the light though but I never had the light until I installed my JWT. I've had my HFCs for months without any SES light showing up but installing the JWTs caused my A/F ratio to become a little bit more leaner which has caused my SES light to go off. It doesn't go off often. It has gone off three times since I installed the HFCs with the latest being earlier today when I went to work. Clear the AF ratio value will fix the problem or an ECU reflash that makes the A/F richer will work to.
Old 08-14-2008, 04:25 AM
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AZg37
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I was just trying to say no one will get an SES light by getting an intake alone. You have to have HFC's for the light to pop.
Old 08-14-2008, 04:30 AM
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bboysteele
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Just making sure. HFCs are good and most people don't get a light until they add other components and even some of those people don't get the light. Once a ECU management system comes out (if one ever does) then the A/F ratio problem can be fixed unless they do what you did. I just wish the Cobb AP would come out but that won't be for another couple years (AP is not worth getting, IMO, unless you can create custom maps which won't be available for a couple years).
Old 08-25-2008, 09:58 AM
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rossab
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I don't think the parts are on the market to add 50 CHP with bolt ons. It may be possible in the future, but plan on spending $4000 on parts, and you'd need a tune.

Unless you know where to get a Tornado... they add 40 hp and they are only $29.99.
Old 08-25-2008, 10:55 AM
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heff
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Originally Posted by bboysteele
Just making sure. HFCs are good and most people don't get a light until they add other components and even some of those people don't get the light. Once a ECU management system comes out (if one ever does) then the A/F ratio problem can be fixed unless they do what you did. I just wish the Cobb AP would come out but that won't be for another couple years (AP is not worth getting, IMO, unless you can create custom maps which won't be available for a couple years).
so im gettin berks and JWT, ill most likely trip the ses, so just reflash and itll be just peachy ? or have you reflashed and ses still trips?
Old 08-25-2008, 11:28 AM
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MaxToTheG37
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I have JWTs, HFCs and CAtback and I havent seen a CEL yet... I have it on for 2 weeks now... mines great!

so
Old 08-25-2008, 02:36 PM
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heff
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^cool brah!
Old 08-25-2008, 03:10 PM
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speedracer g37
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i don't see why 375chp would be difficult with bolt ons and a reflash or ecu manager. didn't someone post up their tecnosquare reflash/intake/exhaust numbers, and weren't they near 325-330 whp?
Old 08-25-2008, 05:16 PM
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DetroitG37Joe
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Originally Posted by AZg37
guys, I'm assuming he's talking crank, he probably pulled 375 figure by starting at the 330 stock number. If anyone was talking FI they wouldn't go to only 375. The stage 1 turbo kits are almost 450hp. Why go FI to only hit 375??? it has to be crank
AzG speaks logik.
Old 08-26-2008, 04:19 AM
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AZg37
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^^ I try and yes, 375 at the crank is possible with bolt-ons. I'm hoping to hit that mark in a week or so. I jumped to 361 at the crank with cat-back, HFC, and headers. I added JWT pop-chargers, and UR pulley but don't know my dyno numbers yet from these 2 mods. With a tune I should be over the 375 mark easily, at the crank that is
Old 08-26-2008, 04:26 AM
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AZg37
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Originally Posted by Taktix1
whats the average WHP number people are getting with just I/E/HFCs?
It really depends on the dyno used, and conditions. My base dyno with no mods on my 5AT was right at 264, which fits perfectly inline with the 18-20% loss in hp from the drivetrain. After adding HFC, Cat-back, and headers I was at 289, which, again fits perfectly with the average loss in HP from the drive train. With intake and pulley I hope to break 300whp( havn't dynoed yet with these mods on), and once my baby is tuned at Technosquare I hope the number takes a big jump
Old 08-26-2008, 08:34 AM
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Taktix1
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I guess 300 WHP is a more realistic goal than 330WHP with bolt ons. Thanks for the info!
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