Hey all

I bought the Injen long tube intake (SP1997P - polished) from THMotorsports - great price, awesome turn around time. Anyway, I am having the intake installed this Wednesday and I wanted to ask how much horse to the wheel I should expect? Also, should I / do I need to cut small holes into the "fake" vents in the front right and left of the bumper vent to allow better airflow to the cones or do you think that will not make much of a difference??

attached is a picture where the vents/grille is and also where the intake tubes terminate. The vents/grille are fake, as I am sure you know. I feel if I take a fine drill bit to them, make some holes, it would make for better air flow. On the other hand, that will also make for an opportunity for water to get into the intake on rainy days.

your thoughts?

 

Nice! Debating on this and two other brands. Tell us how you like it after that install...even if it is just a butt dyno review..

 

you got it. I did a lot of research and this site really really helped. Everyone is great and knows what the hell they are talking about comparably to other forums... seems the better / nicer the car the more enthusiastic the owners... and therefore more willing to help. Anyway... It came down to Stillen Gen 3 and Injen Long Tube Cold Air Induc.

Stillen install involves metal cutting; deal breaker for me

I am going with Injen and then getting an ECU tuning shortly thereafter. According to my research should be a big jump in the ways of HP and torque.

 

The main reason why I didn't go with Stillen G3's was because I didn't want to drill into the support brace. You don't have to drill holes in the fake vents. Dynos have shown that there is ZERO air induction restrictions; meaning it's breathing just fine (max). In all honesty, it's hard to tell. This is your first performance mod, correct? You'll feel quite a bit in your butt dyno. But again, it's difficult to tell. People say the G3's are better for power though. Currently, with all the bolt ons...I stand at 294 whp, and that numbers TUNED. Don't expect too much . On the contrary, you'll still HEAR them, and feel them for sure.

 

Just a heads up for ya Branman...it's pointless to tune with only a CAI. Yes it increases air flow, but it's within reason that the OE maps on the car can adjust to accommodate the extra O2. Once you start getting into more modifications that increase your O2 in/output (ie exhaust, hfc/tps), then you'll want to tune. You can still do it, but you won't gain too much; plus there's no need to spend $$$ to re-tune once you add more breather mods. Know what I mean? Albeit, the responsiveness that you get from Osiris, along with the "cleaner" maps is worthwhile in and of itself.

PS If you decide to go and get more breather mods, get NEW spark plugs prior to your tune. I'm telling you...!!! Don't listen to others that say your OE plugs are FINE! After a single month of running Intakes, Exhaust and TPS, prior to my tune, my plugs were most certainly on their way out; could tell by all the white charring.

 

I don't have any vents on those 2 outer slots.. I also have Injen, I'm just a little worried when it's the rainy season.

 

eksigned - huge help ! Thank you...very thorough

I got everything installed today and can hear such a difference. 2nd gear screams and you can really feel it. The guys at Custom Car Performance (CCP) told me it takes about 2-3 days for the car to adjust itself to the intake, at which time reaching its peak performance. I can already feel the difference in the mid to high range (3-7k RPM). The low end (1-3k RPM) feels and sounds the same.

One thing the Custom Car Performance guys did say is a exhaust and tune is the next step. My only question is, isn't the stock exhaust high performance? Shouldn't I just look into performance cat-converter or something? From what I read on this forum over the past year is that most people didn't really get any gains from new exhaust...just sound differences... Therefore, the ECU tune would be the next best thing to do? What are your thoughts?

Lastly, the cutouts of the grille also was confirmed that it will do nothing as the wheel well has enough of its own suction/vacuum due to the way the bumper curls under

 

It's probably a moot point now, but the Stillens only require you to enlarge the holes in the plastic composite core support. You don't have to cut any metal or make any new holes. Good luck with install either way and enjoy!

 

You're very welcome! As for the exhaust, you're correct. It's mainly for noise, but it does add a bit of whp. I can't comment on how much in particular, because I dyno'ed once I was done with all the breather mods. On the contrary, a member on here once pm'd me saying the same thing, in regards to the oe cats being the most restrictive. I just wanted to be fully bolted on, so I did the exhaust. If you don't feel like spending the money for an exhaust system, that's fine too. The most restrictive portion of the exhaust system, ARE THE CATS! You'll retain your torque figures, more so than people with intakes, exhaust and aftermarket cats. I say get the cats (or test pipes) and then TUNE! PS Make sure you go to a very well known tuner. Osiris is incredible, but it's only as great as the tuner's ability to tune the car. Most tuners tune based on NUMBERS; you want tuners that tune based on THE CAR...essentially a true "custom" tune based on what your car wants the afr to be! good luck!

That's GOOD TO KNOW!

 

Any recommendations on the aftermarket cats for the G?

 

Berks or Fast Intentions. Depends how loud you want it.

I personally am going with resonated HFC's from Tony @ FI.

 

^ agreed both are good

 

noticeable gains with HFC? Berks seem to be the most popular here

 

I just came across this thread and had to insert some information.. if your plugs were white right off the bat you're running too lean it's not the plugs you need to change you do need a tune and you need to add fuel.

 

Holy necro thread bump!

Concerning the plugs, in order to "truly" read them, install new plugs, make 1-3 dyno runs, pull plugs and read. Zero info can be determined from plugs that have been installed for some time. Realize that under cruise conditions, our A/F ratios may be in the 17:1 ratio or even higher in modern engines. LFBT is 12.8:1 just for reference.