Loss power w/intake/hfc/exhaust
#3
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Drop in filters work much better than a CAI. CAI are really only good if you want the intake growl they produce. N/A motors will not produce enough of a noticeable gain with the addition of a CAI. Turbos benefit much greater gains with CAI then a N/A motor will. Heatsoak is the major reason for a CAI not producing a noticeable gain, hence the reason most turbo motor cars use intercoolers when searching for more power when adding a CAI.
#6
so your telling me that drop in filters make better gains than the stillen or injen intake!!
Drop in filters work much better than a CAI. CAI are really only good if you want the intake growl they produce. N/A motors will not produce enough of a noticeable gain with the addition of a CAI. Turbos benefit much greater gains with CAI then a N/A motor will. Heatsoak is the major reason for a CAI not producing a noticeable gain, hence the reason most turbo motor cars use intercoolers when searching for more power when adding a CAI.
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#8
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its probably a feeling issue. Depends on what exhaust and intake you went with. If it is ultra long tube intake with an exhaust that has no back pressure reservoir then you will lose low end but gain high end, so low end is where you are generally driving, so it will feel slower on day to day non aggresive driving.
#9
many mods show immed gains. however, as the afr is adj by the ecu some of these gains are lost and or cause timing issues, trany shift problems (maf is used in part to show engine load as we all know). I would like to see a before and after dyno on a car after the ecu had had a chance to adj to the mod (intake for example) after many drive cylces and not ten seconds after the mod or a ecu reset as most mfgs show. while the hp gains are real, the long term gain may not be. somethig else to think about -tq control, tc, timing, shift points etc., etc are also adj based on what the sensors tell the the ecu. so while you might see a 8hp gain from you warmer than factory "cold air" intake... you MAY see a loss in 0-60 or 1/4 mile. it is very typical to have a car with simple intake and exhaust mod to actuall be less fast than factory but it might sound better
, these 3.7 are very cool sounding with just a simple intake!!
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#10
I have no doubt that I have lost power and torque. Torque was the first thing I noticed aftere installing the HFC's. I was hoping that the Hypertech would restore loss in power between 3-4k power range. But the car pulls well after 3K and with hard acceleration from 0K. I may put the stock intake back on to see if that midrange power and torque returns.
Thanks,
Ron
Thanks,
Ron
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#11
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I've got R2C, Berk HFC and Gemini exhaust and I've raced a stock G37S 6M/t and won, and a stock 6M/T + Berk HFC and won. From a stop and at highway speeds. My car would pull away every single time. I find it hard to believe that my car would have lost power if with the mods I have I pull away from them and when I was stock we were dead even. And this was with and without the hypertech programmer...
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As an FYI, dynos do not give you real world numbers. Do you always have a large fan in front of your car when your stopped at a traffic light to help stop heatsoak? Does that fan also increase the speed of the air as your car moves faster? If you do, then a dyno is your friend. The true test is an engine dyno and I don't know of many tuners that pull motors out and test them the correct way. Please tell me if I'm wrong and I will concede my position. Chasis dynos are a good way to determin power delivery but are almost always misused on how to test for proper horsepower gains.
Last edited by HKSG37s; 05-22-2011 at 01:38 AM. Reason: Added more information
#13
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As an FYI, dynos do not give you real world numbers. Do you always have a large fan in front of your car when your stopped at a traffic light to help stop heatsoak? Does that fan also increase the speed of the air as your car moves faster? If you do, then a dyno is your friend. The true test is an engine dyno and I don't know of many tuners that pull motors out and test them the correct way. Please tell me if I'm wrong and I will concede my position. Chasis dynos are a good way to determin power delivery but are almost always misused on how to test for proper horsepower gains.
#15
Sup guys,
My old set up with Silicon tubes with KN filters, headers, test pipes, y pipe, muff delete and oil cooler. WHP on dyno was 338
Installed 3 inch long tube intakes, my G37 coupe s 09 with 120,xxx needed a tune so I went right after. WHP on dyno was 329.
9WHP loss. The place I took it told me that possibly the silicon tube is a bit bent from the radiator part and recommended I re-check it. I did and it was a bit bent (literally a little bent). planning on retuning next week.
Honestly, my G does not feel the same power wise. I am hoping that my HKS exhaust and fixing my intakes changes the results and I notice gains.
My old set up with Silicon tubes with KN filters, headers, test pipes, y pipe, muff delete and oil cooler. WHP on dyno was 338
Installed 3 inch long tube intakes, my G37 coupe s 09 with 120,xxx needed a tune so I went right after. WHP on dyno was 329.
9WHP loss. The place I took it told me that possibly the silicon tube is a bit bent from the radiator part and recommended I re-check it. I did and it was a bit bent (literally a little bent). planning on retuning next week.
Honestly, my G does not feel the same power wise. I am hoping that my HKS exhaust and fixing my intakes changes the results and I notice gains.