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Im going to reattempt testpipe instal

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Old 01-30-2011 | 02:06 PM
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Im going to reattempt testpipe instal

So ive decided to re attempt my testpipe instal, i failed miserably last time and all ii did was break a bolt, since then ive done some reasearch and discovered that the bolts (header to cat) are NOT threaded through,its just a bolt on the top

My only question is, how could i go about cutting or torching the bolt that it accessed through the engine bay? Any tips?

Actually they are a nut and bolt, which means i could torch either side correct?

EDIT: Would a propane torch be hot enough to melt off the head of a bolt or a nut? Or would i need to use a plasma cutter or oxy/acetalyne torch (i do know how to use one)

Last edited by Steveo47; 01-30-2011 at 03:23 PM.
Old 01-30-2011 | 02:17 PM
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I dunno if they are, but my installer did torch them off as well
Old 01-30-2011 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by G37Sam
I dunno if they are, but my installer did torch them off as well

I believe theyre are a nut AND bolt, which means either side can be torched with the same effect correct?
Old 01-30-2011 | 08:14 PM
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Correction. I don't think a torch would be enough. I've heard I'll have to use an Oxy act welder correct?
Old 01-30-2011 | 08:43 PM
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The hard bolt that everyone has trouble removing is just a bolt. The thread is on the cat itself. So you'll have to break the top of the bolt off. The only way is going in from the engine bay.

When I had trouble breaking this bolt off, I took it to a muffler shop. They told me it would cost $20 bucks to remove the bolt, thinking it was an job. It ended up taking 3 different shop employees over 2 hours to break it off. Best $20 bucks i spent on car labor.
Old 01-30-2011 | 08:57 PM
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i just did 3 TP/HFC installs this past weekend. they have 3 assortments of nuts and bolts. The very top one u need to get from over the engine bay is a bolt which is attached to the cat (sorry sounds weird) and u will very likely just break it which i did for all 3. The second and third one u need to get from under the car r different. One has the bolt that is welded onto the header and the other one the whole nut n bolt will come out together.

so for some tips that i picked up while doing it. u need to have penetrating oil (not WD-40, two different things) and a breaker bar with as long as possible 1/2in extensions. the less extensions the better. PM me if u have any questions
Old 02-03-2011 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by modme
the hard bolt that everyone has trouble removing is just a bolt. The thread is on the cat itself. So you'll have to break the top of the bolt off. The only way is going in from the engine bay.

When i had trouble breaking this bolt off, i took it to a muffler shop. They told me it would cost $20 bucks to remove the bolt, thinking it was an job. It ended up taking 3 different shop employees over 2 hours to break it off. best $20 bucks i spent on car labor.
lol!!!!!!!!
Old 02-06-2011 | 12:50 AM
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DONE! Okay for anyone doing it, its actually pretty easy you NEED NEED NEED PB Blaster, last time i tried this i used WD-40 and couldnt get the bolts out, i soaked with a gracious amount of PB blaster for 10 mintues and kept applying it, i removed each bolt with a bit of effort but nothing crazy. I also soaks the O2 sensor thread in it, and it was very easy to take them out (no stripping or anything).

Now review, I instaled Berk test pipes. I didnt notice much drone, and slight rasp i suppose on WOT. But if you hate that gas smell, then test pipes arent for you, it doesnt really both me. And i reccomend you use anti cease on all the bolts when you put them back in just incase.

I got a check engine light after driving around for 45 min or so. Ill check it with the OBD reader tomorrow, maybe be my HID's. everytime i connect or disconnect my hid ballasts i something get a check engine light.

Moral of the story.. PB BLASTER OWNS
Old 02-06-2011 | 05:17 AM
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glad to hear u got them off
Old 02-06-2011 | 11:27 AM
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thanks for the advice
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