Im going to reattempt testpipe instal
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 6
From: Edmonton, Alberta
Im going to reattempt testpipe instal
So ive decided to re attempt my testpipe instal, i failed miserably last time and all ii did was break a bolt, since then ive done some reasearch and discovered that the bolts (header to cat) are NOT threaded through,its just a bolt on the top
My only question is, how could i go about cutting or torching the bolt that it accessed through the engine bay? Any tips?
Actually they are a nut and bolt, which means i could torch either side correct?
EDIT: Would a propane torch be hot enough to melt off the head of a bolt or a nut? Or would i need to use a plasma cutter or oxy/acetalyne torch (i do know how to use one)
My only question is, how could i go about cutting or torching the bolt that it accessed through the engine bay? Any tips?
Actually they are a nut and bolt, which means i could torch either side correct?
EDIT: Would a propane torch be hot enough to melt off the head of a bolt or a nut? Or would i need to use a plasma cutter or oxy/acetalyne torch (i do know how to use one)
Last edited by Steveo47; 01-30-2011 at 03:23 PM.
#5
The hard bolt that everyone has trouble removing is just a bolt. The thread is on the cat itself. So you'll have to break the top of the bolt off. The only way is going in from the engine bay.
When I had trouble breaking this bolt off, I took it to a muffler shop. They told me it would cost $20 bucks to remove the bolt, thinking it was an job. It ended up taking 3 different shop employees over 2 hours to break it off. Best $20 bucks i spent on car labor.
When I had trouble breaking this bolt off, I took it to a muffler shop. They told me it would cost $20 bucks to remove the bolt, thinking it was an job. It ended up taking 3 different shop employees over 2 hours to break it off. Best $20 bucks i spent on car labor.
#6
i just did 3 TP/HFC installs this past weekend. they have 3 assortments of nuts and bolts. The very top one u need to get from over the engine bay is a bolt which is attached to the cat (sorry sounds weird) and u will very likely just break it which i did for all 3. The second and third one u need to get from under the car r different. One has the bolt that is welded onto the header and the other one the whole nut n bolt will come out together.
so for some tips that i picked up while doing it. u need to have penetrating oil (not WD-40, two different things) and a breaker bar with as long as possible 1/2in extensions. the less extensions the better. PM me if u have any questions
so for some tips that i picked up while doing it. u need to have penetrating oil (not WD-40, two different things) and a breaker bar with as long as possible 1/2in extensions. the less extensions the better. PM me if u have any questions
#7
the hard bolt that everyone has trouble removing is just a bolt. The thread is on the cat itself. So you'll have to break the top of the bolt off. The only way is going in from the engine bay.
When i had trouble breaking this bolt off, i took it to a muffler shop. They told me it would cost $20 bucks to remove the bolt, thinking it was an job. It ended up taking 3 different shop employees over 2 hours to break it off. best $20 bucks i spent on car labor.
When i had trouble breaking this bolt off, i took it to a muffler shop. They told me it would cost $20 bucks to remove the bolt, thinking it was an job. It ended up taking 3 different shop employees over 2 hours to break it off. best $20 bucks i spent on car labor.
Trending Topics
#8
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 6
From: Edmonton, Alberta
DONE! Okay for anyone doing it, its actually pretty easy you NEED NEED NEED PB Blaster, last time i tried this i used WD-40 and couldnt get the bolts out, i soaked with a gracious amount of PB blaster for 10 mintues and kept applying it, i removed each bolt with a bit of effort but nothing crazy. I also soaks the O2 sensor thread in it, and it was very easy to take them out (no stripping or anything).
Now review, I instaled Berk test pipes. I didnt notice much drone, and slight rasp i suppose on WOT. But if you hate that gas smell, then test pipes arent for you, it doesnt really both me. And i reccomend you use anti cease on all the bolts when you put them back in just incase.
I got a check engine light after driving around for 45 min or so. Ill check it with the OBD reader tomorrow, maybe be my HID's. everytime i connect or disconnect my hid ballasts i something get a check engine light.
Moral of the story.. PB BLASTER OWNS
Now review, I instaled Berk test pipes. I didnt notice much drone, and slight rasp i suppose on WOT. But if you hate that gas smell, then test pipes arent for you, it doesnt really both me. And i reccomend you use anti cease on all the bolts when you put them back in just incase.
I got a check engine light after driving around for 45 min or so. Ill check it with the OBD reader tomorrow, maybe be my HID's. everytime i connect or disconnect my hid ballasts i something get a check engine light.
Moral of the story.. PB BLASTER OWNS
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WillCo1
Brakes & Suspension
23
09-01-2015 11:31 PM