Could Infiniti make it harder to instal test pipes?
12-04-2010, 05:06 AM
#1
Could Infiniti make it harder to instal test pipes?
So among other things, this weekend i recieved test pipes. I was super excited and went right to my friends shop to start working on them. 3 hours later all i did was break a bold, and not even undo another. Those two assho!e bolts that you need to remove from the headers through the engine bay by removing the intakes.... Any advice? i broke one but it broke right where the header ends, so no big deal. The other one i couldnt budge, how the hell do i do this!
Thanks!
I did watch the video on youtube of how to instal the berk test pipes, but the guy is the hulk because he just twisted the bolt! its not that easy!!
Thanks!
I did watch the video on youtube of how to instal the berk test pipes, but the guy is the hulk because he just twisted the bolt! its not that easy!!
12-04-2010, 03:17 PM
#7
Spray them generously with the penetrating lube of your choice (I prefer Kroil or PB Blaster) and let them sit at least overnight. A day or two is better. That should make it much easier. Use a 6 point socket to try to avoid rounding off the corners.
It's a tough job but they'll cone off, stick with it. Good luck.
It's a tough job but they'll cone off, stick with it. Good luck.
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12-04-2010, 03:45 PM
#8
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When working on exhaust, make sure everything is stone cold. You can do this by starting early in the morning, or dousing the flanges in water. You will break the bolts otherwise (doesnt really matter if your break it since your taking it out anyways, you can install a new stud later).
The passenger side was easy. Extensions, universal and a cheater bar.
driver side you can do can only do only one bolt from up top...I had to use a six foot cheater bar on this one (and broke the bolt).
you need to stick a long wrench/cheater bar between the lower control arm and the fender to get the other one.
The third bolt is from down under like the other side
just dousing the bolts with penetrating lube right before I wrenched them off was good enough for me. and mine were pretty stinking rusty. reduced effort by at least 30%
The passenger side was easy. Extensions, universal and a cheater bar.
driver side you can do can only do only one bolt from up top...I had to use a six foot cheater bar on this one (and broke the bolt).
you need to stick a long wrench/cheater bar between the lower control arm and the fender to get the other one.
The third bolt is from down under like the other side
just dousing the bolts with penetrating lube right before I wrenched them off was good enough for me. and mine were pretty stinking rusty. reduced effort by at least 30%
12-04-2010, 03:55 PM
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it would work if you could somehow just heat the nut (which will expand around the stud). heating the stud also would defeat the purpose.
If you strip em', not a biggy at all. you can hammer your stripped studs off the flange and install new ones. In fact, my berk pipes were missing a bolt, so I hammered out the stud from my stock cat and put it into my test pipe
12-04-2010, 04:00 PM
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I had to resort to adding those lubricant sprays on those bolts. they were really rusty!
Last edited by Neal376; 12-04-2010 at 06:18 PM.
12-04-2010, 08:32 PM
#12
When working on exhaust, make sure everything is stone cold. You can do this by starting early in the morning, or dousing the flanges in water. You will break the bolts otherwise (doesnt really matter if your break it since your taking it out anyways, you can install a new stud later).
The passenger side was easy. Extensions, universal and a cheater bar.
driver side you can do can only do only one bolt from up top...I
had to use a six foot cheater bar on this one (and broke the bolt).
you need to stick a long wrench/cheater bar between the lower control arm and the fender to get the other one.
The third bolt is from down under like the other side
just dousing the bolts with penetrating lube right before I wrenched them off was good enough for me. and mine were pretty stinking rusty. reduced effort by at least 30%
The passenger side was easy. Extensions, universal and a cheater bar.
driver side you can do can only do only one bolt from up top...I
had to use a six foot cheater bar on this one (and broke the bolt).
you need to stick a long wrench/cheater bar between the lower control arm and the fender to get the other one.
The third bolt is from down under like the other side
just dousing the bolts with penetrating lube right before I wrenched them off was good enough for me. and mine were pretty stinking rusty. reduced effort by at least 30%
12-04-2010, 08:54 PM
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yea, i ended up just breaking the bolts with a 1/2 socket and torque bar, I think thats what its called, but for some studs that were left in the header I had to torch them out. So getting it red hot for any contaminants to peel off the the surface and then i was able to get them off
12-04-2010, 09:06 PM
#14
Okay so! The consensus is: spray the hell out of it with a liquid wrench. Hit the bolt a few times to let it seep in a bit. Then leave is for 12-24 hours. Then it should be a lot easier. How exactly could I heat that bolt (like with a propane tourch). A few people have said it helps