JWT Intake Thoughts, Before/After Dynos, and Review
07-12-2008, 04:13 AM
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JWT Intake Thoughts, Before/After Dynos, and Review
Here are the reasons why I got the JWT intake:
IMO the JWT intake has great potential for producing power especially with an ECU upgrade. The Fujita intake is suppose to loss power over stock which might be the case but with and ECU upgrade the Fujita produces better than the stock intake. Here is the link for it:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...ht=fujita+dyno
I believe that JWT is better than the Fujita intake. I don’t think the Injen will do well with an ECU reflash due to the statement that Gamedog made which Injen told him. I did a search but couldn’t find it and I am too tired to look further but basically he said that the need to trick the ECU to produce gains. I believe that this will hurt them when it comes time for an ECU reflash which I plan to do.
The placement of the filters is better and allows for more air and, IMO, colder air. The Injen is placed in an area where there is not a lot of air circulation and where a lot of hot air will be. Someone in a post said that hot air rises which is correct but think about this, what about the hot air from the road that has been baking in the sun which will rise to the Injen intake? IMO the JWT, Fujita, and Stillen intakes will get more and colder air because of their location. If they designed the Injen for the G37 like they did for the 350Z then that would have been a great setup.
I also think the metal used in the CAI is prone to heat soak which I believe will hurt performance. Someone on here said that they didn’t like the JWT and thought it was a POS because it used the stock tubing. I think this is ingenious because the stock tubing is not prone to heat sock so why not use it?
I think the Injen is a good intake though and cannot say that it doesn't increase performance. Carolyn showed that it does increase the performance over stock although not as well as advertised. I will say the I truly believe the JWT will be a better performing intake than anything else currently out especially after an ECU reflash. This is my opinion so take it as you want. I am a car enthusiast just like most everyone else on here. There is no Mechanical Engineers that design and build motors on this site so no expert advice can be given. Only opinions can be given and advice from individuals that have been doing this for years. Some of this is good advice and some is bad. Take it as you will and learn when you can.
I will be doing my dyno run later today and of course it will have HP, TQ, air flow ratio and all that. I would appreciate a little bit of decency for when I post these before and after dynos. When I posted my Berk HFC dyno, I got all kinds of grief and messages about how I doctored the dyno to show those gains. Let’s just say I was a little pissed off at the people on Driver and this site that would think I would do something like that or the shop I went through would do that. Max helped out a lot with that situation by getting a dyno expert to come onto myg37 and look at my dyno and vouch for them. Thanks Max for that. If you don’t like the numbers I post then that is ok with me but don’t say I doctored any numbers. I would NEVER doctor a dyno number. I don’t have any sponsors. I don’t want any sponsors for this reason alone unless they are happy with me posting independent and actual numbers. If a part doesn’t do well then I will state it and if it does great I will state that too. I gain nothing by giving bad numbers to the community, and I dyno to help this site out because I like to be helpful and most of you are good people that help when I or other people need advice.
Here are some pics of the box and packaging. I would of took pics of the parts but it is packaged to nice and I didn't want to package it up again for the trip tomorrow.
------------------------
OK guys, went to the Dyno shop in Denver. Max Autosports is the name of the shop if anyone in Colorado is looking for a great shop. Well as far as how the intake feels, I can feel the power in the lower band now. It is easier now to spin my tires and there is more kick in the throttle. My launches also have a good deal more power and this is without launching from 2500rpm but normal everyday acceleration. Also ECU reset was done for these runs after JWT install.
Pro:
The piping does not get hot. I drove about 50 miles which took 45 minutes. Most was highway but the last 15 miles was city. As soon as I stopped the car, I popped the hood and felt the piping (not a smart thing but I had to do it). The piping was not hot or even really warm. After I played my golf game, I drove home which is all city driving and I did the same thing when I got home. The piping was a little bit warm to the touch but not to warm. The best way I can explain this is that I could put my hand on the pipe without burning myself. The sun on my arm in the warm 86 degree weather was warmer than the pipe. The warmest the pipes got was during the dynos but it was still not warm enough to hurt my hand. And like I said before, the increase in low and mid range is great. It is also in the top end but I really noticed the low end power.
Con:
The only complaint I had was a little manufacturing mistake. The threading on the left intake (the one closest to the steering fluid bottle) where the mounting bracket goes was unaligned so the bolt did not go into it that well. The techs at the shop were able to get it to work and they will be talking to JWT about this since they are a dealer for their parts. I wouldn't be to concerned if you buy this intake though especially since the techs there were very surprised to see this from a JWT part since they have never had any type of issue with them. I just had an rare issue but we got it to work.
Consistently 10HP and 5TQ increase!
Here are the dynos for you:
Here are the first two dyno's of my Stock/HFC car. I am putting these on here because it took a few runs to get consistent numbers but after the JWT install my numbers turned out to be very consistent
The Best Stock/HFC run with HP/AF graph
The Best Stock/HFC run with HP/TQ graph
The constant number of the JWT runs. My best run gave me 283HP and 239TQ but I don't have that one. This is HP/AF
This is the JWT HP/TQ graph
This is the comparison graph between the Stock intake and JWT.
Update to Review:
I am getting an increase in gas mileage with the intake. It seems to be 1 to 2mpg increase. I use to get 18 to 18.5mpg on my commute to work. I know get 19 to 20mpg. Not a major increase but it is nice.
As far as power goes, there is still a big power increase. I seem not to feel it as much in 1st gear but 2nd, 3rd, and 4th has a good increase in power. A nice kickback in the seat when I hit those gears.
The only issue that there might be with the JWT is, IMO, the increase in air which seems to cause the SES light to come on due to my HFCs. I have had the light come on twice since I put on the intakes. The first time was when I was driving on the highway back from Denver a week or so after the install. Some jerk was tailing me and other cars. He was 1 to 2 feet away from my bumper and other car's bumpers. I am not exaggerating either. I measured the distance as he was tailing the car in front of me as I pulled to the right. Well I got in front of this guy while going by a semi. I slowed down from 80mph to 45mph for the next 5 miles and wouldn't let the guy pass. When traffic was clear in front of me, I dropped it in gear and left him in the dust. He didn't tail me anymore after that but unfortunately he still tail other people. Well when I dropped it and stepped on the gas, the SES light came on. I was to busy thru the week to get the light checked so I was going to have it looked at on the weekend. Well I needed to get gas that Friday and when I filled the tank the light went off so I think the light had to do with a loose gas cap. Sorry about the story but just wanted to let you people know how the light came on.
Well earlier last week the light came on again but this time it happened while I was driving slowly from work to home. I wasn't driving aggressively like I usually do. I had the code pulled and it was a P0420 code which is from the HFC sensors. Another member also got this code with their HFCs and JWT. It might be due to the increase in air flow that both of these parts provide. My AF ratio was around 13 if I remember correctly from my dyno sheet. If there is a momentary spike in this AF then that might be causing the sensor to go off. I can only confirm it going off once on my car. I cleared the SES light so I will keep an eye on it to see if it goes off again. It has been fine the last couple days and that is with me driving aggressively. If it goes off again then I have been told I can get this fixed with a $15 part. I will let you guys/gals know what happens.
IMO the JWT intake has great potential for producing power especially with an ECU upgrade. The Fujita intake is suppose to loss power over stock which might be the case but with and ECU upgrade the Fujita produces better than the stock intake. Here is the link for it:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/showthr...ht=fujita+dyno
I believe that JWT is better than the Fujita intake. I don’t think the Injen will do well with an ECU reflash due to the statement that Gamedog made which Injen told him. I did a search but couldn’t find it and I am too tired to look further but basically he said that the need to trick the ECU to produce gains. I believe that this will hurt them when it comes time for an ECU reflash which I plan to do.
The placement of the filters is better and allows for more air and, IMO, colder air. The Injen is placed in an area where there is not a lot of air circulation and where a lot of hot air will be. Someone in a post said that hot air rises which is correct but think about this, what about the hot air from the road that has been baking in the sun which will rise to the Injen intake? IMO the JWT, Fujita, and Stillen intakes will get more and colder air because of their location. If they designed the Injen for the G37 like they did for the 350Z then that would have been a great setup.
I also think the metal used in the CAI is prone to heat soak which I believe will hurt performance. Someone on here said that they didn’t like the JWT and thought it was a POS because it used the stock tubing. I think this is ingenious because the stock tubing is not prone to heat sock so why not use it?
I think the Injen is a good intake though and cannot say that it doesn't increase performance. Carolyn showed that it does increase the performance over stock although not as well as advertised. I will say the I truly believe the JWT will be a better performing intake than anything else currently out especially after an ECU reflash. This is my opinion so take it as you want. I am a car enthusiast just like most everyone else on here. There is no Mechanical Engineers that design and build motors on this site so no expert advice can be given. Only opinions can be given and advice from individuals that have been doing this for years. Some of this is good advice and some is bad. Take it as you will and learn when you can.
I will be doing my dyno run later today and of course it will have HP, TQ, air flow ratio and all that. I would appreciate a little bit of decency for when I post these before and after dynos. When I posted my Berk HFC dyno, I got all kinds of grief and messages about how I doctored the dyno to show those gains. Let’s just say I was a little pissed off at the people on Driver and this site that would think I would do something like that or the shop I went through would do that. Max helped out a lot with that situation by getting a dyno expert to come onto myg37 and look at my dyno and vouch for them. Thanks Max for that. If you don’t like the numbers I post then that is ok with me but don’t say I doctored any numbers. I would NEVER doctor a dyno number. I don’t have any sponsors. I don’t want any sponsors for this reason alone unless they are happy with me posting independent and actual numbers. If a part doesn’t do well then I will state it and if it does great I will state that too. I gain nothing by giving bad numbers to the community, and I dyno to help this site out because I like to be helpful and most of you are good people that help when I or other people need advice.
Here are some pics of the box and packaging. I would of took pics of the parts but it is packaged to nice and I didn't want to package it up again for the trip tomorrow.
------------------------
OK guys, went to the Dyno shop in Denver. Max Autosports is the name of the shop if anyone in Colorado is looking for a great shop. Well as far as how the intake feels, I can feel the power in the lower band now. It is easier now to spin my tires and there is more kick in the throttle. My launches also have a good deal more power and this is without launching from 2500rpm but normal everyday acceleration. Also ECU reset was done for these runs after JWT install.
Pro:
The piping does not get hot. I drove about 50 miles which took 45 minutes. Most was highway but the last 15 miles was city. As soon as I stopped the car, I popped the hood and felt the piping (not a smart thing but I had to do it). The piping was not hot or even really warm. After I played my golf game, I drove home which is all city driving and I did the same thing when I got home. The piping was a little bit warm to the touch but not to warm. The best way I can explain this is that I could put my hand on the pipe without burning myself. The sun on my arm in the warm 86 degree weather was warmer than the pipe. The warmest the pipes got was during the dynos but it was still not warm enough to hurt my hand. And like I said before, the increase in low and mid range is great. It is also in the top end but I really noticed the low end power.
Con:
The only complaint I had was a little manufacturing mistake. The threading on the left intake (the one closest to the steering fluid bottle) where the mounting bracket goes was unaligned so the bolt did not go into it that well. The techs at the shop were able to get it to work and they will be talking to JWT about this since they are a dealer for their parts. I wouldn't be to concerned if you buy this intake though especially since the techs there were very surprised to see this from a JWT part since they have never had any type of issue with them. I just had an rare issue but we got it to work.
Consistently 10HP and 5TQ increase!
Here are the dynos for you:
Here are the first two dyno's of my Stock/HFC car. I am putting these on here because it took a few runs to get consistent numbers but after the JWT install my numbers turned out to be very consistent
The Best Stock/HFC run with HP/AF graph
The Best Stock/HFC run with HP/TQ graph
The constant number of the JWT runs. My best run gave me 283HP and 239TQ but I don't have that one. This is HP/AF
This is the JWT HP/TQ graph
This is the comparison graph between the Stock intake and JWT.
Update to Review:
I am getting an increase in gas mileage with the intake. It seems to be 1 to 2mpg increase. I use to get 18 to 18.5mpg on my commute to work. I know get 19 to 20mpg. Not a major increase but it is nice.
As far as power goes, there is still a big power increase. I seem not to feel it as much in 1st gear but 2nd, 3rd, and 4th has a good increase in power. A nice kickback in the seat when I hit those gears.
The only issue that there might be with the JWT is, IMO, the increase in air which seems to cause the SES light to come on due to my HFCs. I have had the light come on twice since I put on the intakes. The first time was when I was driving on the highway back from Denver a week or so after the install. Some jerk was tailing me and other cars. He was 1 to 2 feet away from my bumper and other car's bumpers. I am not exaggerating either. I measured the distance as he was tailing the car in front of me as I pulled to the right. Well I got in front of this guy while going by a semi. I slowed down from 80mph to 45mph for the next 5 miles and wouldn't let the guy pass. When traffic was clear in front of me, I dropped it in gear and left him in the dust. He didn't tail me anymore after that but unfortunately he still tail other people. Well when I dropped it and stepped on the gas, the SES light came on. I was to busy thru the week to get the light checked so I was going to have it looked at on the weekend. Well I needed to get gas that Friday and when I filled the tank the light went off so I think the light had to do with a loose gas cap. Sorry about the story but just wanted to let you people know how the light came on.
Well earlier last week the light came on again but this time it happened while I was driving slowly from work to home. I wasn't driving aggressively like I usually do. I had the code pulled and it was a P0420 code which is from the HFC sensors. Another member also got this code with their HFCs and JWT. It might be due to the increase in air flow that both of these parts provide. My AF ratio was around 13 if I remember correctly from my dyno sheet. If there is a momentary spike in this AF then that might be causing the sensor to go off. I can only confirm it going off once on my car. I cleared the SES light so I will keep an eye on it to see if it goes off again. It has been fine the last couple days and that is with me driving aggressively. If it goes off again then I have been told I can get this fixed with a $15 part. I will let you guys/gals know what happens.
Last edited by bboysteele; 08-05-2008 at 03:40 AM.
07-13-2008, 12:09 AM
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Bump since I just updated this.
Editing Post to allow bigger PICs.
Some big graphs for you people.
Editing Post to allow bigger PICs.
Some big graphs for you people.
Last edited by bboysteele; 07-13-2008 at 12:25 AM.
07-13-2008, 12:27 AM
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Thanks a lot bboysteele for your hardwork. It did payoff. WOW 10 WHP, it definitely exceeded my expectations. I was hoping 5-7 WHP, but 10, no way. Like I mentioned in my very first post about why I decided to go with JWT, I'm hoping for 5-7, anything above that is a bonus, in this case 3 bonuses...
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07-13-2008, 12:50 AM
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I missed one part before and now I noticed that in your best JWT run, you 283 HP and 239 TQ, Hey that's even more impressive, 12 WHP and 10TQ, that's simply shocking for me.
07-13-2008, 12:54 AM
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LOL...Now that would be NICE. Ya, typo. Thanks for that catch. It has been corrected.
Ya but the TQ number changed from 5TQ to 10TQ. It always showed 5TQ for most of the runs so I would go with that number but I can definitely tell the TQ difference on the lower RPM range. I can spin my tires quite a bit easier now in first and second. Launches are so much better now especially the launches starting from around 1000rpm like most people drive.
It does make my car sound meaner. It is not a huge difference and with the HFCs it can be hard to hear but it is deeper sounding which I love.
Ya the 10 did better than I was thinking it would do. The 10TQ I got for a couple runs really surprised me. The techs there where like dang this is nice. I was a little worried with the piping since it was a little warm during the runs but the drive to the golf course and the drive home eased that fear. The tubing was not warm at all when I got to the golf course and when I went home is was not warm but had just a tiny bit of warmth. The pipe was literally 5times hotter during the dyno runs so it might be possible that the 10TQ is accurate since that was during my first 3 to 4 runs after the intake install. I saw 5TQ because that is what I got consistently and with warm pipes. I am really excited to see what this will do with an ECU reflash.
It does make my car sound meaner. It is not a huge difference and with the HFCs it can be hard to hear but it is deeper sounding which I love.
Thanks a lot bboysteele for your hardwork. It did payoff. WOW 10 WHP, it definitely exceeded my expectations. I was hoping 5-7 WHP, but 10, no way. Like I mentioned in my very first post about why I decided to go with JWT, I'm hoping for 5-7, anything above that is a bonus, in this case 3 bonuses...
Last edited by bboysteele; 07-13-2008 at 01:12 AM. Reason: Answering questions
07-13-2008, 01:05 AM
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Ya but the TQ number changed from 5TQ to 10TQ. It always showed 5TQ for most of the runs so I would go with that number but I can definitely tell the TQ difference on the lower RPM range. I can spin my tires quite a bit easier now in first and second. Launches are so much better now especially the launches starting from around 1000rpm like most people drive.