sTiLLBaLLiN37

iTrader: (9)

I believe he said 10 hp and 5 Tq
PMS got 5 hp and 7 tq but she has a full exhaust system

bboysteele

I would have to pull up old dynos and I am to tired to do that. At least 20HP and I think 10TQ.

weave

Since we have the same setup, I would love to see your totals so far from stock.

I already have my hfcs on with no dyno but am going to try and do one with before and after jwt install if the guy will give me the time on the dyno without hitting me for 2 hook-ups

bboysteele

See if they have a tuning session as an option. The place I went to charges, I think, $75 for three pulls but they also having a tuning session dyno that gives you the dyno for $100. This option lets you tune your car while on the dyno. The guys at the shop I went to told me to do this which was a lot cheaper in the long run and I got a lot more then 6 pulls.

ppc

Interpreting the A/F ratio you do not look for a peak value but instead you want to look for an average value. From your dyno run I would state the observed average is more towards 12.0. When tuning/reflashing the peaks get reduced and the valleys increased as much as possible

In my opinion what is more important during the run is where the ECU switches back and forth between Open and Closed Loop if it does so at all. Most engines under WOT will remain in Open Loop using hard coded parameters stored in the ECU and the “learned” values are not used. It would be nice to verify this with how the G37 ECU is implemented. If that is so the ECU resets would have virtually no impact on dyno runs.


From Dynojets FAQ:

On a naturally aspirated engine, you'll make best / safe power between 12.8-13.2. Vehicles running "power adders" will need to run a little richer, between 11.5-12.5 for best / safe power.

Based upon those values our ECU’s are running very rich, limiting the power.

GNLuver

iTrader: (2)

Good Point...
On Turbo Regals it was known as Power Enrichment mode or PE.

I think you are right on with the ECU running it a little rich.

bboysteele

Well with the mods it looks like it is running leaner and not as rich. Is that correct since the AF numbers are higher? Wouldn't running it richer create more power?

Hpauto

iTrader: (10)

Running it "richer" actually hinders power. Too much fuel will handicap performance but protect from running lean and possibly leading to variables such as detonation. The cars are tuned from factory to run more on the rich side, so now being able to bring in more air will def help it run more at a optimal mixture for better power.

bboysteele

^^Nice to know. I was told that you want to look at running between 13-14 to get the most power out of the car and to be safe. Is this the range to look to get to our is does anyone know what is the optimum AF you want to get?

Hpauto

iTrader: (10)

We are getting a G37 into our shop next week, let me take it down to the dyno and play around w and see if I can find the ideal range we wanna be at.

ppc

The theoretical optimum value is 14.7 which is strictly based upon the chemical composition and the reaction of a complete burn. As additives are introduced to control the burn such as MBTE to control pollution then the optimal ratio reduces in value.

When a motor runs in closed loop the O2 sensors are able to measure the A/F ratio and the ECU is able to control the mixture so that the ratio varies from rich to lean and back several times per second. This variance allows the Cats to operate correctly. The A/F ratio might swing from 12 to 17. That would be manufacture set by design. The ECU uses the learned values, short and long term as the starting points to control this operation. Press the gas a little more or change a gear and the ECU uses different learned values to maintain a similar pattern.

Put the peddle to the metal, WOT, then at some point the ECU can not keep the vehicle in closed loop. This depends on what type of air measurement devices (VAF, MAF, Hotwire) are used, speed of the ECM processor. At that point the A/F no longer oscillates from rich to lean but goes full rich to protect the motor. That value depends on the engine design, being normally aspirated or turbo-supercharged, compression ratio etc.

bboysteele

There is a serious issue with the JWT intakes. My stupid low fuel light keeps coming on more and more ofter now. WTF! Seriously, who doesn't cruise around at 6000rpm once they put these on. Stupid low fuel light.

And by the way, these intakes also have the tendency to make you stop at every light you see just so you can gun it from a stopped position. Stupid intake.

Hawaiian72099

So you are saying it doesn't improve fuel efficiency! Damn it... I need to cancel my order!

bboysteele

Updating the review since I have had the intakes for a while now. I will add this to the first post as well.

I am getting an increase in gas mileage with the intake. It seems to be 1 to 2mpg increase. I use to get 18 to 18.5mpg on my commute to work. I know get 19 to 20mpg. Not a major increase but it is nice.

As far as power goes, there is still a big power increase. I seem not to feel it as much in 1st gear but 2nd, 3rd, and 4th has a good increase in power. A nice kickback in the seat when I hit those gears.

The only possible issue that there might be with the JWT is, IMO, the increase in air which seems to cause the SES light to come on due to my HFCs. I have had the light come on twice since I put on the intakes. The first time was when I was driving on the highway back from Denver a week or so after the install. Some jerk was tailing me and other cars. He was 1 to 2 feet away from my bumper and other car's bumpers. I am not exaggerating either. I measured the distance as he was tailing the car in front of me as I pulled to the right. Well I got in front of this guy while going by a semi. I slowed down from 80mph to 45mph for the next 5 miles and wouldn't let the guy pass. When traffic was clear in front of me, I dropped it in gear and left him in the dust. He didn't tail me anymore after that but unfortunately he still tail other people. Well when I dropped it and stepped on the gas, the SES light came on. I was to busy thru the week to get the light checked so I was going to have it looked at on the weekend. Well I needed to get gas that Friday and when I filled the tank the light went off so I think the light had to do with a loose gas cap. Sorry about the story but just wanted to let you people know how the light came on.

Well earlier last week the light came on again but this time it happened while I was driving slowly from work to home. I wasn't driving aggressively like I usually do. I had the code pulled and it was a P0420 code which is from the HFC sensors. Another member also got this code with their HFCs and JWT. It might be due to the increase in air flow that both of these parts provide. My AF ratio was around 13 if I remember correctly from my dyno sheet. If there is a momentary spike in this AF then that might be causing the sensor to go off. I can only confirm it going off once on my car. I cleared the SES light so I will keep an eye on it to see if it goes off again. It has been fine the last couple days and that is with me driving aggressively. If it goes off again then I have been told I can get this fixed with a $15 part. I will let you guys/gals know what happens.

MaDd

^thats better than having the engine shut off on you while you are on the freeway... happened a couple times to me with the injens on my g35c