bread

So, this has been an ongoing issue for me since ive owned the car, and I am looking to try to get some answers before trying to take it back to a shop.

I already tried adding freon, it helped make it slightly colder but it didnt fix my problem. My a/c only gets "cold" when im driving, and sometimes only gets colder when I crack my window a little, almost like the cabin air temp sensor or something is going bad.

I was doing some research and saw that sometimes the relay goes bad for the a/c clutch, and was wiling to try that first to see what happens.

Any ideas or experience with this? I know hvac is a pretty difficult subject

BULL

If you have the ability to tie a light to your A/C compressor to let you know that it's on it would point you to if the compressor is ON while lower temps are happening.

If the system was vacuumed properly and filled to proper levels you'll need to get yourself a set of A/C pressure gauges and pull them out the hood and drive with them connected.
This will show you the pressures as you're driving and will be able to obtain more data.

Theories:

Condenser: Possible airflow through the condenser, fans never compare to airflow at speeds. Being that we are in S.FL we do a lot of HWY driving and quite possible that your condenser is full of rocks and debris which would lower it's efficiency at idle and resume to a somewhat normal at speeds.

Cabin air sensor: usually these when they die they default to FULL COOLING

Light sensor: The first one is for your lights, the second one tells the A/C amp meter that there's a lot of sunlight or not. This will control how much freon the compressor will see. A faded sensor or improperly working one will do this. (usually the plastic covers fade and block sunlight to it causing the system to believe it's night time)

bread

ill give u another example;

so yesterday i was in the drive through, it was a hotter day, i had both my windows cracked maybe half inch, with AC on, it was blowing cold

solid_nickel

Your AC fan is blowing full speed when you turn on the AC?

bread

as in, in the cabin yes, on the outside like do i hear anything running not sure

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

90% of the time if the AC only blows cold while the car is at speed but not at a stop the issue is with the fans. At speed, sufficient air is passing through the condenser thus rejecting heat. At lower speeds, or at a stop, the fans will kick in to maintain this air flow. At highway speed, the fans do not operate.

Did you run the IPDM/er self-test to make sure BOTH radiator fans are running normally? At full speed (100% duty), both fans should be roaring loud.

Edited to add: at the first sign of the AC not "blowing cold" many folks automatically run to the parts store and get a can of refrigerant to toss into the system: sometimes it works, most times it does nothing. As such, it is very easy to overcharge the system which can do more harm than good. These cars call for 1.21lb. of R-134a. Anything more and efficiency is lost. and it will not cool. These cars are known to get real fussy when the system is overcharged. Just saying...

Not trying to come off the wrong way, but if you do not have the proper tools to diagnose and repair the AC then it is best to take it to a reputable shop.

Check your fans first, then you can decide on the next step to take.

solid_nickel

Sounds like his AC fan is not working, he needs a power probe to test for power to the AC fan

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

That's what the IPDM/er self-test is for. It automatically tests the relays, the fan control module, and both fan motors at 50% and 100% duty raatios.

bread

For anyone following;

ended up being the compressor wasnt building pressure on the high side, and low side was sitting at ambient temperature.

got new compressor off rock auto new for $300 (with components) works good!

saved me a $1400 bill lol