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I had just ordered a aftermarket radio for my 2009 G37 Base Coupe. To start, I disconnected the negative cable from my battery, and then started to disconnect the stock radio system and installed the new one.
After putting everything back in place in my car, I went to put the negative terminal back onto my battery to start my car up and test if I installed the aftermarket radio correctly.
For some reason, the push start button would not react to me pushing it at all, and the car wouldn’t start. Even when I put the key fob in the slot left of the steering wheel, it wouldn’t even signal that my key is in it.
It wouldn’t even let me switch it to ACC or ON position. The typical orange lights that show which position the ignition is in we’re not on either.
I also noticed that on my dashboard, the red security indicator warning light was flashing. It looks like a car with a key symbol inside it. That was the only light I had showing on my dashboard.
When I would press the lock button on my key fob, the car would lock but the typical horn that comes after it wouldn’t make a sound.
The door button to lock and unlock my car still works while i’m standing next to the car with my key fob, so I don’t think it’s an issue of my key fob being disconnected from the car.
When I click the alarm button on my key, the alarm does not go off at all. I even checked to make sure the horn was still working, and it is.
I searched everywhere online, some people said it could be something with the BCM, in which I checked the BCM fuse in the fuse box to the left of the battery, and it was fine. Some people said to leave the battery completely disconnected for 10 minutes. That didn’t work.
So now I’m stuck, and I would really appreciate if someone could guide me in the right direction to fix this issue. I currently have my battery completely disconnected and I’m going to let it sit for 24 hours.
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to include as much info as possible so someone could fully understand what was going on.
1) Is the RED KEY icon flashing, or staying solid? Flashing ≈1x/sec. is good. Solid is NO good.
2) What "aftermarket radio" did you install? Was it a complete "plug-and-play" unit or did you have to cut/ splice any wiring?
First, I would double check all of your work.- basically EVERYTHING that you touched Did you make sure ALL of the connectors are in their appropriate spot? Also, did you disconnect the connectors to the AC AMP (white, plastic rectangular box mounted on your (OEM) headunit? If so, are you sure they are in the right location- it is VERY easy to get these mixed up and "brick" the car.
Assuming everything is correct, and you still have a "no go" condition, consider putting your OEM system back in and see if the car wakes up.
1) Is the RED KEY icon flashing, or staying solid? Flashing ≈1x/sec. is good. Solid is NO good.
2) What "aftermarket radio" did you install? Was it a complete "plug-and-play" unit or did you have to cut/ splice any wiring?
First, I would double check all of your work.- basically EVERYTHING that you touched Did you make sure ALL of the connectors are in their appropriate spot? Also, did you disconnect the connectors to the AC AMP (white, plastic rectangular box mounted on your (OEM) headunit? If so, are you sure they are in the right location- it is VERY easy to get these mixed up and "brick" the car.
Assuming everything is correct, and you still have a "no go" condition, consider putting your OEM system back in and see if the car wakes up.
The red symbol is flashing every second. It’s not solid.
It was a plug and play set up. I didn’t have to splice wires together at all. Also, I did have to disconnect the AC AMP, however I connected it back when I installed the new radio system.
Flashing is GOOD. That indicates that IVIS has not immobilized the car. This flashing is completely normal and no cause for concern.
I would still double check that the CORRECT connectors are plugged into the AMP. Again, it is VERY easy to mix up the connectors between the amp and the headunit. MANY have made that same mistake and the car doesn't respond. Look for two connectors wrapped in foam with YELLOW electrical tape and ensure these are plugged into the amp.
If no change, put your OEM unit back in and see what happens. Could be that Chinese thing is causing a issue.
(Images courtesy of member JUANPCM from this thread.)
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 07-21-2022 at 06:40 PM.
Flashing is GOOD. That indicates that IVIS has not immobilized the car. This flashing is completely normal and no cause for concern.
I would still double check that the CORRECT connectors are plugged into the AMP. Again, it is VERY easy to mix up the connectors between the amp and the headunit. MANY have made that same mistake and the car doesn't respond. Look for two connectors wrapped in foam with YELLOW electrical tape and ensure these are plugged into the amp.
If no change, put your OEM unit back in and see what happens. Could be that Chinese thing is causing a issue.
(Images courtesy of member JUANPCM from this thread.)
the larger yellow cable was plugged directly into the system. However, the other yellow cable was plugged into a harness given by the aftermarket part, in which the harness then plugs directly into where the other yellow cable should’ve gone (like a splitter). That’s the only thing that is different. I’m checking all of the other cables and they seem plugged into where they’re supposed to be.
Every one of those knockoff units has a different setup so I am not sure how helpful I can be here without some type of schematic... I do know that without the amp properly connected the car will never run right- if at all.
I can almost guarantee that your issue lies with the harnesses and those two (2) amp connections.
Edit: To my understanding, most of these Tesla-style knockoffs only use the AV headunit connectors leaving the AC AMP untouched.
Again, the connectors for the AMP are identical to some of the connectors for the HEADUNIT. Make sure these are not mixed up!
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 07-22-2022 at 09:12 AM.
07-21-2022, 04:37 PM
