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Help Ess fuse?

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Old 08-31-2021, 08:02 PM
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josefgabriel
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Ess fuse?

Hi. I'm a new G37 sedan owner and I've had the car a couple of weeks. Just before going to the store I tapped into my mirror for a radar detector.

Now I'm at the store. Homelink won't work and I'm pretty sure I blew a fuse. From reading on here it looks like the ess fuse. Remote trunk release not working, no AC. Oh and it won't go into drive. Im in the parking lot and it's hot as hell here in Texas. I'm about to call a tow truck but it might be a while. I can push the switch in but I can't see if there's a fuse behind it. The mirror/ radio fuse is not blown.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Last edited by josefgabriel; 08-31-2021 at 08:08 PM.
Old 08-31-2021, 08:59 PM
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13_SkylineSedan
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Sounds like it could be a fuse in the IPDM which is near the battery and not easily accessible. My totally off the top of my head guess would be #53, but it's a guess... good luck.
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josefgabriel (08-31-2021)
Old 08-31-2021, 09:31 PM
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josefgabriel
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Thumbs up

Thanks so much. I would be willing to bet that is it. I dug around on my phone and saw several instances of other G37 owners trying to tap into the mirror for their radar detectors as well. Apparently I am not alone. I kept seeing "fuse 6" being referenced and I looked in both the box by the kick panel and the obvious box in the battery compartment. I did NOT look in the box you are listing (or even notice it).

I ended up going back into the store and buying some hex keys to stick in the shift override. I made it home but it is dark and I will go check it out in the morning (I live in apartments so no garage). I find it odd (and kind of fascinating) that shorting out your Homelink/auto dimmer can effectively keep you from putting the car in drive. All sorts of other things also didn't work on the way home. No fuel gauge, a warning light that said "key" for some reason, a warning about the gas, and I don't know if it is psychosomatic but the car seemed to drive differently and brake differently. I dunno. It REALLY makes you appreciate AC in your vehicle in the middle of August.

I suppose the best way to get at the other fuse box is to just remove the battery?
Edit: watched a bunch of youtube videos at home and I see how to remove that fuse box.

Last edited by josefgabriel; 08-31-2021 at 09:56 PM. Reason: figured out one question
Old 08-31-2021, 10:00 PM
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ILM-NC G37S
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Fuses #6 (ELEC PARTS BAT) and #3 (ELEC PARTS IGN) are for the mirror and are located in the driver side fuse block (near left foot). Fuse #6 also provides power to the Unified Meter AC Amplifier which would be why the climate control and some of your gauges do not work. Fuse #3 also provides power to the mirror and the shift interlock relay (which is why you could not shift out of gear). I would check those fuses first.

I would leave the IPDM alone until you verify those fuses first. If those fuses are good, then you can start checking the other fuses in the IPDM, BAT fusible links, etc.

Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 08-31-2021 at 10:36 PM.
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josefgabriel (09-01-2021)
Old 09-01-2021, 01:32 AM
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13_SkylineSedan
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What ILM said! Look at those two fuses first, sounds right.
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josefgabriel (09-01-2021)
Old 09-01-2021, 12:07 PM
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josefgabriel
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Good morning. Well, the good news is thank you very much ILM-NC G37S it was indeed fuse 3. I don't know how I missed that last night while frantically checking fuses. However, I failed to look at this thread this morning before I went out there. I watched every video I could find on the IPDM and immediately did that. No harm though. Now I know how it comes out.

However, some things are not working still.

The first thing that I noticed was the check engine light was on. So I reset the ECU. No problem. No CEL. But... no AC controls and no radio controls from the ***** in the center stack. I can control the stereo (volume anyway) from the steering wheel, AND the AC is running (it took a good minute before it turned on). So it works but I can't control it from the ***** and it isn't showing on the screen. I did not go into the center stack at all and this all appears to be caused by myself by not doing the number one thing you should do when working on anything electrical (disconnecting the battery). I was planning on maybe doing the "tesla" tablet installation but now I am pretty hesitant as this seems to be a theme when doing anything in that area.

Any ideas? I will start looking but you seem to have a good idea about what is going on.

Thanks again from a new owner.
Old 09-01-2021, 12:31 PM
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ILM-NC G37S
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Making progress at least...
Do any of the LED's on the control panel light up? Do any of the buttons on the upper switch panel (the dial one) work?
Check fuse #19 (10amp) marked AUDIO/MIRROR... this fuse provides power to the control panel (aka multifunction switch).
Old 09-01-2021, 12:52 PM
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josefgabriel
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None of the LEDs are lit. None of the ***** work. I didn't check before but the buttons and the **** by the touch screen are not working.

I checked what I think is fuse #19 and it is good. Looking at the kick panel for me it is the second from the top on the right.

This site:
https://fuse-box.info/infiniti/infin...ses-and-relays

seems to indicate it is in another position but the label on the panel says "AUDIO/MIRROR" (the second from the top on the right one) and is a 10 amp fuse. I also just noticed that the fuses are even smaller than the spares I bought last night (looks like "low profile mini" vs. "mini") so I would need to run back to the auto parts store but at least most of the things work now.
I hope hope hope it isn't like some of the posts I am reading where it was a circuit board. Those look expensive. I did purchase a warranty though, work case scenario. It just has a deductible.
Old 09-01-2021, 01:27 PM
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ILM-NC G37S
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Please be attentive and specific when checking fuses. ALWAYS follow the diagram that came with the car. This is from the factory manual and I noted fuse #19. Double check that fuse and advise...

If that fuse comes back good, then things get a little more complicated.
Old 09-01-2021, 01:59 PM
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josefgabriel
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That was it. Thanks again. Everything is working now. I guess it just blew two fuses? I need to go get some more fuses as I had to pull a 20amp out of the spares at the bottom but everything is working)
Edit: master warning went off after a few seconds. Thanks again both!

Everything is as it should be. If the car is anything like my last "sporty" car (GSX) I take it the ECU will need some time after the reset to start giving more aggressive fuel maps?

Last edited by josefgabriel; 09-01-2021 at 02:13 PM. Reason: change in status
Old 09-01-2021, 02:24 PM
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ILM-NC G37S
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Glad you are up and running now. Yes, it will take a few driving cycles for the ECU to figure you out, lol.

I will say that the electrics on these cars are very robust and solid. As much modding as I've done I have never had any electrical issues (knocks on wood).

Now you can tackle that Tesla-style thing... 🙄
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josefgabriel (09-01-2021)
Old 09-01-2021, 02:32 PM
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josefgabriel
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It is good to hear that overall the electrical system is solid. It has been a while since I actively was involved in working on something and that last something was a 98 GSX so earlier on as far as electronics go. After that I had an FJ62 which has next to no electronics.

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