zer099

iTrader: (2)

I've racked my head over this all morning, figured I would reach out to get suggestions. Car is a 2009 G37x.

The Problem: Get in car and hit the ignition/start button but it does not respond. It lights up fine, but is in "lock" and does not move to "ACC" or "On".

When the problem started: I had to drop the engine to replace the front diff and the power steering lines after I grenaded my old front diff. I did disconnect the engine wire harness from the ECM and drop the engine, then put her all back together. I have double and triple checked the connecters.

Steering wheel is locked. Not sure if that has any bearing on things. Before pulling the engine I did lock the steering wheel then tied off the steering wheel as well before indexing and disconnecting the steering linkage at the rack.

The key fob works fine. It unlocks and locks the doors, pops trunk, and works the alarm. Lights in car work fine, and can turn the headlights on and off. Seats move fine. From what I can tell the BCM and fob are fine. The battery is charged, and I've tried also hooking up a jump pack to see if maybe it just didn't have enough power; no change.

No strange lights or the like on the dash. I got the red flashing security light when i get near the car (blinks once every three seconds as it should, I believe). Close the door and the dash gauges indicate to hold down brake peddle and hit the start button, so I do, but nothing happens. It doesn't even switch over to accessories.

At a loss and would love some suggestions to poke at.

13_SkylineSedan

Brake pedal switch / circuit? Just a thought.

zer099

iTrader: (2)

I figured it would at least switch over to ACC if that was the case. I will check it out however.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

1) Go to the car WITHOUT a key and press the START button. What shows up on the display?

Get the key...
2) Insert the key fob into the slot and try again. Result?
Repeat with any other keys, if applicable.

3) Does the key icon light up on the gauge cluster when you press the button?

Even if the brake circuit was faulty, the car should still go into ACC or ON- the engine just would not start. AS LONG AS the car can read the key...

Your symptom tells me the car can not read the key. Perhaps when you disconnected the harnesses somehow the BCM/ECM lost the key registration data?

I also have to state the obvious: you did check all of the fuses- both in cabin and under the hood?

zer099

iTrader: (2)

1. Display shows a prompt to insert fob in slot. No response from any other system.

2. Display prompts to press brake and hit the start button. No response from start button however when pressed.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

THIS IS JUST MY GUESS..., but it sounds to me your keys need to be reprogrammed to the car. Either that or something is disconnected at the BCM/ECM.

Again, check all of your fuses and ground connections.

BULL

You could have a faulty lock mechanism like I did. I will take the combination of taps, lock and unlocks of the fob along with the shaking of the wheel as you hold the brake pedal and push start.
Once the car enters the AAC mode, leave it on and go to your underhood fusebox and pull the steering lock fuse.

zer099

iTrader: (2)

So I am guessing it was just a loss connection at one of the engine harness connections. I Just pulled the glovebox and battery shroud to undo and redo all the major ECM, BCM, and loom connections and she started back up. Sooo, crisis averted. Now to figure out why the airbag light is flashing and why the "VDC OFF" and "SLIP" light are on.

Thank you all for your help on this!

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Glad she's up and running. Airbag light probably needs to be reset. Thanks for the update.

On a side note, BULL, when your steering lock module failed, did you have the KEY icon light up on the cluster- or was it just a "no go?"

zer099

iTrader: (2)

Yea, it was just some simple resets and new Steering Angle learnings. I got a new key fob battery as well to be safe and pulled the fuse on the steering lock (been meaning to for years, finally got scared enough to do it, plus she was already opened up).

Thank you all again!

King300

hi, I need help I installed a tap fuse and used the 10amp ignition fuse I installed the tap fuse the wrong way and saw a spark and now my ignition won't turn on.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I need you to be as specific as possible... Which 10amp ignition fuse did you attempt to tap into? What exact fuse and where?

This will help me to narrow down the circuit branch and corresponding upstream fuse.

King300

i used the fuse box near the driver seat under the dash it's a 10amp fuse, and it says elec parts ignition.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Perfect. Now, at the positive battery post, there is a jumble of fuses. You will need to check the 30amp fuse ("H") as this supplies power to ELEC PARTS- IGN fuse you "fiddled" with. If you're lucky that fuse is blown. If not, then it can get messy. Here's a pic showing what to check.



DISCONNECT NEGATIVE TERMINAL BEFORE PROCEEDING!

King300

thank you so much for that. i will check tomorrow morning. what could possibly be the problem if this fuse is good? can it be an ignition switch that got fried or could it be something else? I am really disappointed right now and really hope this doesn't get ugly. you have any social I can contact you on for a quicker response? I would highly appreciate it