Akeem175

Please tell me you found something brother I think I'm going through the same thing!

Ray9415

I have the same issue. I have replaced the alternator, the strap, cleaned my battery terminals. My light goes off after driving 10 to 15 miles... Any solution to the brake and battery light?

Akeem175

Try replacing your battery, it seems like its not holding the charge properly. Your alternator is working since it's building the charge over those miles. Change the battery. If it's not the battery then it might be a wiring or grounding issue. Or something is draining it that you added to the car like an aftermarket sound system or lights.

Ray9415

Thanks for the reply, I was driving, and the light went off....a few miles later le brake and battery started turning on and off, intermittently, and the 2 or 3 miles later, solid on and won't come off. I put a new battery, and nothing has changed. It is definitely between the alternator and the battery

Akeem175

The alternator that you just installed. Is it a new one and is it specifically for our cars? I ask because when I was having issues a few months back it centered around the alternator. The one I got fit but was fried after 20 miles and apparently was crap quality. I forget the voltage numbers but our cars require a certain output from the alternator and if it's not up to it it'll keep having problems or in my case kill it all together. Before you change the alternator out again try turning the car on and take off the (+) positive post, if the alternator is shot the car will die instantly like mine did. If that's the case I recommend hitting a junk yard and grabbing an alternator out of a wrecked G. If you want to save a little cash anyway, that's what I did. Not even going to get into the hell of installing it. I pray for you bro I'm out of ideas after this.

Ray9415

Hi , thanks for the reply.... So I did install a brand new alternator. It is a Wai Global 11438N ... I'm worried that it failed...But I also found a lot of debris underneath the battery where all the wires pass, (pine tree needles). The garage tells me that it is a sensor that might have failed. What would happen if the ground wire of the alternator disconnected, would that be the correct signature? I also got a friend to read the trouble codes. They found U1300-01 and U1256-02 also, can those be related?

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so another member here just replaced his alternator with some "Wai Global" unit and had problems with it from the start (see here). He had to replace it, again. So, it is safe to say that those units are trash.

The only sensor that "might" be a issue is the battery current sensor. This sensor measures the charging/ discharging rate of the battery and signals the ECU to adjust alternator output according. Look for a "donut" along the negative battery cable to where it bolts to the car frame. Just make sure the connector is clean and tight. I do not know of any sensor "under the battery." Again, ensure everything is clean and dry.

U1300 and U1256 are AV error codes related specifically to your "Hands Free Telephone" module. This has nothing to do with your alternator.

Hit up eBay or a local junkyard and go from there. Or, get your original unit rebuilt. I do not know your area but I am sure there are some specialty auto repair shops that rebuild starters and alternators. Last resort, get a new or remanufactured unit from Infiniti.

Ray9415

Thank you for this info. Any recommends for a replacement alternator?

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

I am not the best one to ask as I try my best to avoid cheap, knockoff, "like kind/quality," or non-OEM parts. This is what I would do...

• There are a ton on eBay for less than $100;
• If there are any junkyards near you, try there. (Like Akeem175 mentioned); or
• New or remanufactured from Infiniti (discountinfinitiparts.com) starting at ≈$400.

I would stay away from Amazon, Rockauto, or the chain stores UNLESS, it was for a OEM unit.

That is just my 10¢...

Ray9415

Hi I won't cheap out either... I have to go to a scrap yard for another part, but I doubt I'll find a g37 2012 in this area (there are very few). I think i will go with the OEM alternator too, ... thanks for the help

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

2010+ will work. Also one from a 370Z, M37, etc.

Ray9415

this part number: 2310M-3FY1ARW ?

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Looks to be the correct one. Keep in mind that is a remanufactured (OEM) unit (hence the "RW" designation) but still has the same warranty as if new.

As always, "verify BEFORE you buy!"

Ray9415

Hello all, so I brought my original alternator to an alternator specialist, and he told me the regulator was dead. He completely rebuilt my alternator for $200. I also checked the whole system for corroded wires or bad grounds, and everything checked out. i also checked the 3 pin connector to the alternator, and it was not broken, burnt, or corroded...For now, no more battery and brake light...cheers. Thanks for your recommendations...

mummy2

Did you ever figure it out?