The only thing to add is the maximum oil capacity of the VQ37VHR is five quarts with an oil filter change. I usually add 4 1/2 quarts, start it up and then check it again the next morning. That allows all the oil to drain back to the main oil pan and gives you a more accurate reading at the dipstick.

 

great post op. thanks for the input from everybody else too.

 

probably a dumb question but can you use a rubber washer instead of the copper one on the drain plug?

 

5 and 1/8 qts according to my manual. Nice write up!

 

^ no. when the engine gets hot the rubber will distort, almost melting away over time. this will leave a gap between the bolt flange and the oil pan, allowing oil to slowly leak out. this happened to a friend with a Mazdaspeed6 who didn't check his oil level often enough. by the time he finally checked there was only 1.5L of oil...the car takes 6L.

OP - would rhino ramps not be more simple than the multiple jack procedure? just a thought...

 

Yes ramps would probably be easier, but for people that actually do work on cars the money is better spent on a good hydraulic jack and stands. (No being sarcastic)

I have several friends that are full time mechanics at reputable dealerships around here and they all have hydraulic jacks and stands at their houses.

No ramps for the pros. I guess I should say.

 

I have used many different oils for my turbo civic.
Pretty much every brand of oil that makes a full synthetic, has been run in it.

Same goes for spark plugs on the civic. (Copper, Iridium, Platinum, E3's, etc.)

I have run 10w-30 and 10w-40 on the civic plus added Lucas oil Stabilizer 2:5 ratio. I heard running diesel engine oil is the best though, I have never tried it some other people with turboed hondas swear by the stuff.

 

I've done all my own maintenance on all my cars, and it's nice to have the ramps when only doing an oil change. I also have a jack and stands for other needs such as tire rotation, etc.

Why not have both? Ramps are only like 45 bucks.

 

Agreed. I have 2 jacks and 2 sets of jack stands, but just went out and purchased a set of Rhino Ramps (after Advance Auto coupon they were like 38 bux)

Im not a pro, but Im far from a newbie and I dont see any reason a pro couldnt have a set of ramps (except for the fact that pros usually have access to a lift....which is the same basic idea as a set of ramps).

This is my first car thats low enough a standard jack wont fit under it, at least not without playing musical jacks, so I cant see how having another tool in the arsenal hurts. And I can use them for my other vehicles too if I wanted.

 

I'm not a pro auto mechanic, either. I was a steam propulsion plant engineer, though and I've worked on pumps, turbines, blowers, reducers, compressors and all things in between. I'm just a little mechanically inclined.

That said, I put the car on ramps (yes, ramps... not a hydraulic jack ) slid underneath and went... "Huh?" Thought I'd have to remove that whole damn plastic guard until I slid out from under the car and checked here first. Thank you for this post. I didn't notice it would bend back out of the way.

I hit 3k miles, so I figured I'd get the oil outa there and put in some good, quality synthetic oil. I went to O'reilly's and got the Royal Purple 5W30 and a wix filter. Only disagreement I have is my filter # is 51358.

Anywho... this was helpful, so thank you.

 

According to the owner's manual it is 5 1/8 qts if you change the filter. Since I just did the oil/filter change and added a little over 5 qts, I'd have to agree because after letting the car idle for a few minutes, I shut it off, waited a while and checked the level... perfect.

 

I just finished doing my own oil change on my 2010 G37,sedan. The first 2 oil changes and 1 tire rotation was free at the dealership with the car purchase, so I drove up there and let them do it.
This time, I didn't want to drive a 100 mile round trip and also have to pay an inflated price for a simple oil change., so it was easier doing it myself.
Years ago I had built some ramps by stair stepping 3 each 2x8s. They got the car high enough for me to get under from the front. It was still too tight to squeeze under from the sides.
The dealer had over tightened the drain plug, so I had to use a cheater bar to break it loose. The filter came loose by hand.
Thanks to the DIY it made it easy for me to see what I had to loosen in order to gain access to the filter and drain plug.
After filling the oil with a gallon+ container that stated 5.1 quarts, the level came up to little under half way b/t add and full. I'll pick up another quart and top it off.
I picked up a quart of oil today and when I checked the oil level it was dead on the full mark, so I must not have waited as long as I thought when I took a reading just after changing the oil and letting the car run for a minute.

The biggest hassle from accessing the stuff from the front,versus the side, is you have the flap somewhat in your way. This may have been more of hassle for me since I didn't have a lot of room between the garage floor and the bottom of the car.

Next time I'll clamp or bungee cord it up out of the way.
I did notice some wear marks on the cover as if I had bottomed out and hit the cover while driving.
Thanks again for the DIY.
Tom

 

Great write up. Question though. What is the oil drain plug torque and the wheel lug torque?

 

oil - 25 ft-lb ( I may have been at 28)
wheels I *think* are around 80 ft-lb?

 

Thanks for the effort. I just picked up a torque wrench from Harbor Freight on sale and this thread helps confirm that it'll work.