Mobil 1 Synthetic Motor Oil is Factory Fill in 40 Plus Car Models

If you're going to say next that mobil one is not a full synthetic, then yes I agree with that, but that's not the point I was making.
Although, they call it "Fully synthetic"
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ynthetics.aspx

 

Well Mobil1 has a full synthetic as well as a conventional oil (and I saw on that link it says they use the full synthetic)...I really didn't realize that. I'll have to research it some more, I've just always been told not to use full synthetic oil until break in.

Thanks for the link though, I always like learning new stuff!!

But Mobil1 IS a full synthetic, why do you think it's not?

 

Oh, sorry, I guess I don't really know much about whether mobil one is a full synthetic or not. I thought I remembered reading the general consensus that it was semi-synthetic or something, but I could be wrong. I was just trying not to make this into a discussion about whether this is a group III, IV., or V, which I don't really know enough about.

 

Yeah the "Mobil1 Full Synthetic" oil is truly a full synthetic. There is also a conventional oil line from Mobil1, but they are 2 totally separate products

 

Last time I checked, US bound Ferrari's were coming factory filled with Pennzoil Ultra.

Pennzoil Ultra Euro Motor Oil - European Car Magazine

 

I also use Mobil1 on my G37S, how often do you usually change yours? With the engine burning off some of the Mobil1 oil, do you need to top of the oil between changes?

 

I've got ~23K on mine right now...I changed it at 3500 (post-break in) and then again at 12000. I recently changed it at 21000 and put Penzoil Ultra in it.

If you are tracking the car at all, this is NOT relevant. But under normal driving with Mobil1 you should be fine going 8000-9000 miles. I would absolutely not push more than 10K, but I would also check the oil 1x/week once you get to the 8000 mile range just to make sure you're still ok.

And I've never had to top it off

 

I don't know about that. The UOAs I had with Mobil1 came back with recommendations that I keep lessening the miles I drove with it. They are posted here in the forum for all to see.

 

This thread is funny. Mobil 1 is hydo-cracked petroleum base oil. As close to
a synthetic as you can get with petrobeum, but not synthetic.
They can only get away with that crap in the good ole' USA where
we've been treated as stupid for so long that some have actually become so.

 

how far do you plan on driving with the penzoil?

 

The name-calling aside, in any platform outside of a true racecar, the difference between Mobil1 and a "real" synthetic is absolutely negligeable.

Just b/c some of us don't feel like going into great depth to explain a no-matter difference that, once again, will never matter to anyone with a G, doesn't make someone stupid at all...

I'm gonna go 5000 and see how it's holding up...I plan on 8000 but we'll see how it looks at 5K,6K,etc.

 

Well, I'm erring on the side of caution and decided to change the oil to Mobile 1.
It's done and now I have piece of mind on my trip. Thanks to all who responded

 

Wasn't calling you names and sorry if that's how it came accross.
My point was that through law suits, court battles and Americans
allowing it, Oil compaines label and advertise many petroleum based
motor oils as synthetic that are not. It has now become commonly
accepted because we are told they are synthetic and the labels
clearly say "full synthetic".....but they are only highly refined and
modified petroleum molecules.

Many "semi-synthetic" oils are actually superior due to being a
blend of true synthetics and hydo-cracked petroleum base oils.

In regards to this post, any of the hydro-cracked petroleums
like M1, PU, PP, etc, etc, etc, are fine n a new engine, or even
come as the ff in them.

It's the true synthetics, ie PO (Redline, Racing Castrol, Schaeffers,
Motul, RLI,) that you wouldn't want to use to break-in a new motor.

It should matter to G owners. If you love your VVEL, you'll put
PO (true synthetic, or ester in it). Nissan spent alot of money
trying to concoct a hydro-cracked blend that would satisfy
this engine's lubrication needs, but obviously, we all know the
base oils can't take the heat this engine makes.....but
any true ester based oil can handle it easily, and for much
less than the Nissan oil. If it didn't matter to most G owners
there wouldn't be all these threads trying to find cheaper
oils that work well in this engine.

The problems will come later and won't be revealed by
decent UOAs. Guys patting themselves on the back
now will find out later that while their UOAs looked good
their VVELs were literally cooking oil onto many of the
engine parts and will sooner or later cause problems.

 

I dont think Jon was trying to call anyone names, more of calling America itself stupid because we are the only country to my knowledge that allows companies to market group 3 oils as fully synthetic. And you can thank Castrol for that.

IMO this engine is pretty hard on oils, as UOA's will show with the Nissan Ester oil, and it has shown not to like some "synthetic" group III base oils, such as Mobil 1. I know some people have had good results with it, others have not.

Group 4 "fully synthetic" oils suck as Redline, Motul, etc. have shown good results in this engine.

Although this isnt a racecar, due to the heat and this engines nature to be pretty tough on oils, and according to UOAs, I think we do see a difference between Mobil 1 and your "fully" synthetic group 4 oils. So I disagree with your first sentence.

Although I do agree that some group 3 "synthetic" oils, such as the Pennzoil line, tend to produce good UOA results and dont break down like the Nissan Ester Oil and are a better choice than the "recommended" Nissan Ester Oil for longer OCIs.

 

I run Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 in mine and after my last UOA @ 5500 miles, the report said I should go to 7500 without any issues at all. I will be running those intervals for now on until I decide to change oil brands for some reason.