Help What size hex key for MT and rear differential fill/drain plugs?
07-01-2009, 10:01 AM
#2
I can't help you with the hex key sizes. But, after you figure it out, can you also let us know which crush washers are needed for the MT and rear ends. I was told one uses the same as the oil drain plug, but one uses a totally different crush washer. Thanks.
P.S. I'm about 4K miles/4 months behind. I plan on switching over to synthetics probably around late October.
P.S. I'm about 4K miles/4 months behind. I plan on switching over to synthetics probably around late October.
07-01-2009, 11:05 AM
#3
I can't help you with the hex key sizes. But, after you figure it out, can you also let us know which crush washers are needed for the MT and rear ends. I was told one uses the same as the oil drain plug, but one uses a totally different crush washer. Thanks.
P.S. I'm about 4K miles/4 months behind. I plan on switching over to synthetics probably around late October.
P.S. I'm about 4K miles/4 months behind. I plan on switching over to synthetics probably around late October.
As for crush washers, I got Nissan PN 11026-01M02. They are the same ones for the oil pan drain plug. I was told (without much conviction or certainty) by a Nissan parts guy that they are the right one for all 4 plugs. We'll see. I got them cheap and shipped very quickly here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-N...Q5fAccessories
07-01-2009, 03:57 PM
#4
Here's deal for the 350Z manual tranny; you'll need a 10mm hex. Using a hex socket on a 1/2inch drive socket wrench should give more leverage to loosen the bolt than a hex key.
The crush washers may be the same for the both the tranny and rear end. I guess you can confirm this when you take off the bolts. If so, like you say, they should be the same crush washers as for the engine oil drain plug.
The crush washers may be the same for the both the tranny and rear end. I guess you can confirm this when you take off the bolts. If so, like you say, they should be the same crush washers as for the engine oil drain plug.
Last edited by notalk; 07-01-2009 at 06:41 PM.
07-02-2009, 10:51 AM
#5
UPDATE:
notalk, you were 100% correct, 10mm is the correct size. I didn't need much leverage at all to break them loose, a long hex wrench worked just fine with only moderate effort. The torque spec is only 25 ft/lbs on the transmission and 26 ft/lbs on the rear diff.
Also, the 11026-01M02 copper crush washer is NOT the correct one for this application, they are for the oil drain plug. I just reused the ones that were there.
notalk, you were 100% correct, 10mm is the correct size. I didn't need much leverage at all to break them loose, a long hex wrench worked just fine with only moderate effort. The torque spec is only 25 ft/lbs on the transmission and 26 ft/lbs on the rear diff.
Also, the 11026-01M02 copper crush washer is NOT the correct one for this application, they are for the oil drain plug. I just reused the ones that were there.
07-02-2009, 11:00 PM
#6
UPDATE:
notalk, you were 100% correct, 10mm is the correct size. I didn't need much leverage at all to break them loose, a long hex wrench worked just fine with only moderate effort. The torque spec is only 25 ft/lbs on the transmission and 26 ft/lbs on the rear diff.
Also, the 11026-01M02 copper crush washer is NOT the correct one for this application, they are for the oil drain plug. I just reused the ones that were there.
notalk, you were 100% correct, 10mm is the correct size. I didn't need much leverage at all to break them loose, a long hex wrench worked just fine with only moderate effort. The torque spec is only 25 ft/lbs on the transmission and 26 ft/lbs on the rear diff.
Also, the 11026-01M02 copper crush washer is NOT the correct one for this application, they are for the oil drain plug. I just reused the ones that were there.
07-03-2009, 12:19 AM
#7
I'm going to drive it a bit more to make sure it's not all in my head. I think that the shifting is a bit smoother, particularly noticeable into 5th and especially 6th where it was a bit stickier than the other gears. I know that 1st gear engagement isn't as abrupt as it was originally. More forgiving of a less then perfect clutch engagement when starting from a standstill.
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07-05-2009, 11:26 AM
#8
I haven't read of a fluid change where the washers were also changed. I guess we'll all be waiting to see if you have any leaks with re-using the original washers. Thanks for posting this.
07-05-2009, 12:01 PM
#9
Just to update this thread, in case someone does not read the DIY threads, we think the correct washer is Nissan part number 110264N200, and the retail price should be about $2.64 each.
I haven't read of a fluid change where the washers were also changed. I guess we'll all be waiting to see if you have any leaks with re-using the original washers. Thanks for posting this.
I haven't read of a fluid change where the washers were also changed. I guess we'll all be waiting to see if you have any leaks with re-using the original washers. Thanks for posting this.
I can also report that Betty hasn't leaked a drop of oil since I performed this service.
07-06-2009, 01:13 AM
#11
Good point. The way I see it though, a quality synthetic should last 100K miles or so on a car that isn't abused. That means I will spend about $25 and less than an hour of my time probably only once in the life of my car doing this job, maybe twice. While I certainly don't agree with wasting money on changing stuff that doesn't need to be, I guess I considered this for my peace of mind. There is a noticeable amount of metal shavings in both the transmission and differential from break in.
07-06-2009, 10:35 PM
#12
Good point. The way I see it though, a quality synthetic should last 100K miles or so on a car that isn't abused. That means I will spend about $25 and less than an hour of my time probably only once in the life of my car doing this job, maybe twice. While I certainly don't agree with wasting money on changing stuff that doesn't need to be, I guess I considered this for my peace of mind. There is a noticeable amount of metal shavings in both the transmission and differential from break in.
07-07-2009, 09:29 PM
#14
My 2008 owner's manual says Nissan Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90. Are you saying this is a synthetic oil? No where on the label or description does it say synthetic. What am I missing here?
07-07-2009, 10:44 PM
#15