The racing blends have less detergents than the street blends.
The racing blends generally provide better lubrication under
racing conditions...ie, hard accelleration, higher RPMs, higher
heat. Detergents are not as important in racing oils due
to lower hour/mile change intervals.

I'ts important to weigh and decide based on your situation.
Like Mike says....he uses the racing blend based on his
driving style, climate, and probably shorter oil change intervals

If you make short trips and or don't drive "hard" the street
blend with adequate detergent additives and a longer
change interval is the way to go. You will also get
better mileage with a lower viscosity "fuel saving"
street blend than you will with a racing blend.

I hope this helps. Good luck

 

Thanks for the information. I guess 300v wont work for me. I do a lot of highway driving. Looking at the 8100, there is eco energy and xmax.

 

That would be correct, but mis-interpreted information. This is the reason I have posted up a virgin 300V oil analysis showing that 300V is a perfectly streetable oil.

Yes, most racing oils do not contain the detergents, but these "racing oils" are also propiatory blends not available to the general public; they're tailored specifically to a engine and race.

300V is ultimately a street oil that happens to be robust enough to also used for racing (e.g. 24 hours of LeMans, WRC, Super-GT, etc.). I can guarantee that endurance racing is harder on an engine than just cold starts and city driving.

The only REAL way to protect a cold engine is to have a pre-crank lubrication system (e.g. oil accumulator or dry sump), but that is not realistic for the general public.



Short version: 300V is targetted toward the spirited driver and weekend warrior. It is perfectly streetable.


@ SilverBullet: The majority of my driving is in traffic and in the city. I'd say over 60% of the run-time on my engine. Another 30% would be highway, while maybe 10% would be track/canyon/WOT pulls.

 

So if I just drive around normally (I drive pretty spiritedly anways) then go to the track once or twice a month should I be ok with 300v? And what about the winter months, track season doesn't really start up again until next april, so should I just go with the 8100 until then? I'm getting close to my next change and would like to switch away from mobil 1.

 

If a normal 5W30 is usable in your area, then yes. You'll probably want to have an oil cooler at the track, since a 30 weight is still a 30 weight, no matter how good the quality of the oil.

8100 is a Group III oil. It should be fine as long as you're not doing anything crazy, and may even be fine at the track unless you're already pretty fast.

My decision to run 300V in my car is based on UOA evidence that 8100 doesn't last under the conditions that I subject my car to.

Does it snow in your area? You might actually want to run some other brand's 0W30 if it gets super cold.

 

Thanks for the info mike. I think I might go with 300v, so I can be ready for any canyon trips. What is the recommended change interval? Can I go 7500? Which filter should I run? How much for an oil change with this?

 

Um... 3750 unless you get UOA done to be safe.

OEM filter is fine, quality aftermarket one is fine too (purolator, wix, etc)

Filter is gonna be roughly 10 bucks, and 300V retails for around 17-18 bucks a quart shipped. I'm sure you can find better

 

I just got my oil change at Riverside Infiniti. I asked what kind of oil they use for their standard oil change. The service manager said it's called Orangeline (I think) and it's a synthetic blend oil. I thought I remember Mike telling me once that they used a bulk oil from Nissan with ester additives...? Maybe they changed their supplier?

 

Everyone is cost cutting nowadays =\

 

Well if I get an oil cooler, I have to run more quarts of oil. I don't want to spend that much and change it out early like the nissan ester oil. I would keep it for at least 5k.

 

I run Amsoil 0-W30 all year round with a EAO13 filter rather then the EAO12 just because its a little bigger. It snows in Ohio and I dont track the car all all. I do run it kinda hard. I take it to the dealer and have them change it about every 7500. Just so they can lube everything and fill all the other fluids and have record of all the changes. Does that sound ok to all you oil experts?

 

With increased oil capacity, you would change it less. If your capacity increases 25%, then you can run it about 25% longer. Roughly.

The only way to really tell is to get a UOA done.

Spend the 32 bucks, and you'll know for sure if that interval works for you. The UOA could even indicate that you can go longer. Either way, you get peace of mind and/or a longer oil change interval.

 

Checkout the real test performed Mobil1 Vs Mutul 300V, you should really think about getting most for your buck.

YouTube - Mobil 1 vs. Motul 300V '95 Camaro LT1

Best price I have on Motul 300V is $30 a can, please let me know if you can find cheaper.

I buy mine at aftermarketuning.com

 

I wonder if the 2010 37 will have "the tick".

 

how the f can switching oil make a 20hp difference?