View Poll Results: What brand of oil do you use in your G coupe/sedan?
Motul (300v or 8100)
56
4.06%
German Castrol
44
3.19%
Amsoil
46
3.33%
Redline
49
3.55%
Royal Purple
79
5.72%
Mobil 1 Synthetic
653
47.32%
Pennzoil Platinum
132
9.57%
Valvoline SynPower
31
2.25%
Eneos Synthetic
22
1.59%
Quaker State
10
0.72%
Lucas Oils (synthetic)
6
0.43%
Schaeffer Synthetic Oil
4
0.29%
Nissan Ester Oil
171
12.39%
Conventional 5w30 "dino oil"
77
5.58%
Voters: 1380. You may not vote on this poll
The DEFINITIVE oil thread
#136
I'm so confused...
I read the entire 9 pages of this thread, very interesting opinions.
Please help a newbie, my 2009 G37S is due its very first oil change next week and I'm booked at the dealer.
I have 3300 miles (5500 kms) and the oil level is just at the lower hole on the dipstick so it looks like the car used 3/4 of a quart?
Have you guys noticed your G37 using this much oil?
I called the dealer and the service dude said not to top it up, as long as the level is above the Low mark, as he'd want to see it for himself (in case of potential warranty issues in the future).
I asked him what brand to use and he replied that Nissan uses Ester at the factory, then dumps it after the initial engine run-up (still at the factory), then they re-fill with Ester and that's how the car is delivered.
He said I could use any 5-30 oil from now on, my choice.
So my question to you knowledgeable guys is whether I should go to conventional 5-30 (Dino) or stick with Ester considering the engine uses so much oil. I agree with a whole bunch of you about the triffling price for the best oil/filter, I spent a lot of money on this car and 40-60 bucks one way or the other is the least of my concerns. I just want the best for the car and not have to worry about burning oil.
Thanks,
Dan
Please help a newbie, my 2009 G37S is due its very first oil change next week and I'm booked at the dealer.
I have 3300 miles (5500 kms) and the oil level is just at the lower hole on the dipstick so it looks like the car used 3/4 of a quart?
Have you guys noticed your G37 using this much oil?
I called the dealer and the service dude said not to top it up, as long as the level is above the Low mark, as he'd want to see it for himself (in case of potential warranty issues in the future).
I asked him what brand to use and he replied that Nissan uses Ester at the factory, then dumps it after the initial engine run-up (still at the factory), then they re-fill with Ester and that's how the car is delivered.
He said I could use any 5-30 oil from now on, my choice.
So my question to you knowledgeable guys is whether I should go to conventional 5-30 (Dino) or stick with Ester considering the engine uses so much oil. I agree with a whole bunch of you about the triffling price for the best oil/filter, I spent a lot of money on this car and 40-60 bucks one way or the other is the least of my concerns. I just want the best for the car and not have to worry about burning oil.
Thanks,
Dan
#137
I read the entire 9 pages of this thread, very interesting opinions.
Please help a newbie, my 2009 G37S is due its very first oil change next week and I'm booked at the dealer.
I have 3300 miles (5500 kms) and the oil level is just at the lower hole on the dipstick so it looks like the car used 3/4 of a quart?
Have you guys noticed your G37 using this much oil?
I called the dealer and the service dude said not to top it up, as long as the level is above the Low mark, as he'd want to see it for himself (in case of potential warranty issues in the future).
I asked him what brand to use and he replied that Nissan uses Ester at the factory, then dumps it after the initial engine run-up (still at the factory), then they re-fill with Ester and that's how the car is delivered.
He said I could use any 5-30 oil from now on, my choice.
So my question to you knowledgeable guys is whether I should go to conventional 5-30 (Dino) or stick with Ester considering the engine uses so much oil. I agree with a whole bunch of you about the triffling price for the best oil/filter, I spent a lot of money on this car and 40-60 bucks one way or the other is the least of my concerns. I just want the best for the car and not have to worry about burning oil.
Please help a newbie, my 2009 G37S is due its very first oil change next week and I'm booked at the dealer.
I have 3300 miles (5500 kms) and the oil level is just at the lower hole on the dipstick so it looks like the car used 3/4 of a quart?
Have you guys noticed your G37 using this much oil?
I called the dealer and the service dude said not to top it up, as long as the level is above the Low mark, as he'd want to see it for himself (in case of potential warranty issues in the future).
I asked him what brand to use and he replied that Nissan uses Ester at the factory, then dumps it after the initial engine run-up (still at the factory), then they re-fill with Ester and that's how the car is delivered.
He said I could use any 5-30 oil from now on, my choice.
So my question to you knowledgeable guys is whether I should go to conventional 5-30 (Dino) or stick with Ester considering the engine uses so much oil. I agree with a whole bunch of you about the triffling price for the best oil/filter, I spent a lot of money on this car and 40-60 bucks one way or the other is the least of my concerns. I just want the best for the car and not have to worry about burning oil.
#138
^^ ya me too, don't ask why but i checked my oil level on the 2nd day of my car and it scared the **** out of me seeing such low oil level, but thank god i found out it was normal.... thought something happened to my engine
#140
I don't believe anyone has ever had a problem if they do regular oil changes, regardless of how expensive or cheap the oil is.
Those that spend money on premium oils either 1. want peace of mind or 2. have a legitimate reason.
Those that spend money on premium oils either 1. want peace of mind or 2. have a legitimate reason.
#141
I just took my G37 to Tustin Infiniti for its first oil change. Since I have the pre-paid maintenance plan, I asked the SA to use Ester oil, he refused and told me it's only recommended by Infiniti but not required. So I gave him the 411 about the VVEL engine architecture, and how it requires the Ester oil to quiet down its operation and left the car at the service department not too thrilled with this news.
He calls me back an hour later telling me that they ended up draining the fresh dino oil they just put in and filling it up with Ester oil after reading the Nissan bulletin about Ester oil and the G37/370Z.
I'm happy with the outcome since I paid $1,200 for my 5 year/75K miles maintenance plan and feel it's worth it now.
He calls me back an hour later telling me that they ended up draining the fresh dino oil they just put in and filling it up with Ester oil after reading the Nissan bulletin about Ester oil and the G37/370Z.
I'm happy with the outcome since I paid $1,200 for my 5 year/75K miles maintenance plan and feel it's worth it now.
Last edited by madmax2k1; 09-03-2009 at 01:53 PM.
#142
I just took my G37 to Tustin Infiniti for its first oil change. Since I have the pre-paid maintenance plan, I asked the SA to use Ester oil, he refused and told me it's only recommended by Infiniti but not required. So I gave him the 411 about the VVEL engine architecture, and how it requires the Ester oil to quiet down its operation and leave the car at the service department not too thrilled with this news.
He calls me back an hour later telling me that they ended up draining the fresh dino oil they just put in and filling it up with Ester oil after reading the Nissan bulletin about Ester oil and the G37/370Z.
I'm happy with the outcome since I paid $1,200 for my 5 year/75K miles maintenance plan and feel it's worth it now.
He calls me back an hour later telling me that they ended up draining the fresh dino oil they just put in and filling it up with Ester oil after reading the Nissan bulletin about Ester oil and the G37/370Z.
I'm happy with the outcome since I paid $1,200 for my 5 year/75K miles maintenance plan and feel it's worth it now.
#143
Nope.....my service manager is very "in-the-know" and he flat out told me conventional oil is JUST FINE for our cars, but he personally runs Mobil 1 in his G37 coupe. He also likes Pennzoil products as well. I'm REALLLLLY surprised they caved and gave you the Ester oil. It is NOT required. Only if your engine has the VVEL "tick" or "knock". You got lucky bro.
#144
Nope.....my service manager is very "in-the-know" and he flat out told me conventional oil is JUST FINE for our cars, but he personally runs Mobil 1 in his G37 coupe. He also likes Pennzoil products as well. I'm REALLLLLY surprised they caved and gave you the Ester oil. It is NOT required. Only if your engine has the VVEL "tick" or "knock". You got lucky bro.
#145
What I Think I Know
Just finished all 9 pages of this thread. Traded my M35X last week
for a 09G37X Sport, nav, premium, sport...yadayadayada
Learning about this Oil "thing" at the speed of light.
My opinion is there is way to much BS on this thread that is impertinant
opinion....or biased ignorance....sorry guys Where are the
UAOs you all are saying you are doing?
For discussion's sake here is what I have learned over the years.
- a good oil in a good engine won't insure the best results from either.
- More and more newer high tech engines are recommending
"designer oils" that are blended to meet the unique design
requirements of that engine
- many blends have gone back to a mineral base with
proprietory additives including synthetic stocks, esthers
and other secret stuff they won't share with others
- the word "synthetic" is overused, misunderstood and
not always the best stuff for many applications
- the word "ester" is overused, misunderstood and
not always the best stuff for many applications
- without UAOs, you're only guessing what is going
on between your engine and the oil
- the best oil in our engines is the one that gives
us the best overal UOA at a "decent" change interval
- my guess is that until some other oil marketers crack
the Nissan Ester formula, it's going to be the best
performing oil in terms of performance, cost, and
gas mileage.
-now we'd all be better off if we quit giving opinions
(including me) about oil filters, cost, dealers, service
managers and OCIs, and start posting some UOAs and
togeather we'll quickly figure out what really works
in the new 3.7
Honestly, I've been amazed at a lack of UOAs for the
G37 and new Z, here, on BITOG, and NICO sites, but
there sure is alot of speculation and opinion. The German
car guys are laughing their _sses off at us while
they know what works best in every one of their
engines and we can't figure out what works in only
one.
Data, we need data, anything less is ignorance.
for a 09G37X Sport, nav, premium, sport...yadayadayada
Learning about this Oil "thing" at the speed of light.
My opinion is there is way to much BS on this thread that is impertinant
opinion....or biased ignorance....sorry guys Where are the
UAOs you all are saying you are doing?
For discussion's sake here is what I have learned over the years.
- a good oil in a good engine won't insure the best results from either.
- More and more newer high tech engines are recommending
"designer oils" that are blended to meet the unique design
requirements of that engine
- many blends have gone back to a mineral base with
proprietory additives including synthetic stocks, esthers
and other secret stuff they won't share with others
- the word "synthetic" is overused, misunderstood and
not always the best stuff for many applications
- the word "ester" is overused, misunderstood and
not always the best stuff for many applications
- without UAOs, you're only guessing what is going
on between your engine and the oil
- the best oil in our engines is the one that gives
us the best overal UOA at a "decent" change interval
- my guess is that until some other oil marketers crack
the Nissan Ester formula, it's going to be the best
performing oil in terms of performance, cost, and
gas mileage.
-now we'd all be better off if we quit giving opinions
(including me) about oil filters, cost, dealers, service
managers and OCIs, and start posting some UOAs and
togeather we'll quickly figure out what really works
in the new 3.7
Honestly, I've been amazed at a lack of UOAs for the
G37 and new Z, here, on BITOG, and NICO sites, but
there sure is alot of speculation and opinion. The German
car guys are laughing their _sses off at us while
they know what works best in every one of their
engines and we can't figure out what works in only
one.
Data, we need data, anything less is ignorance.
Last edited by JonfromCB; 09-03-2009 at 10:02 PM.
#146
Just finished all 9 pages of this thread. Traded my M35X last week
for a 09G37X Sport, nav, premium, sport...yadayadayada
Learning about this Oil "thing" at the speed of light.
My opinion is there is way to much BS on this thread that is impertinant
opinion....or biased ignorance....sorry guys Where are the
UAOs you all are saying you are doing?
For discussion's sake here is what I have learned over the years.
- a good oil in a good engine won't insure the best results from either.
- More and more newer high tech engines are recommending
"designer oils" that are blended to meet the unique design
requirements of that engine
- many blends have gone back to a mineral base with
proprietory additives including synthetic stocks, esthers
and other secret stuff they won't share with others
- the word "synthetic" is overused, misunderstood and
not always the best stuff for many applications
- the word "ester" is overused, misunderstood and
not always the best stuff for many applications
- without UAOs, you're only guessing what is going
on between your engine and the oil
- the best oil in our engines is the one that gives
us the best overal UOA at a "decent" change interval
- my guess is that until some other oil marketers crack
the Nissan Ester formula, it's going to be the best
performing oil in terms of performance, cost, and
gas mileage.
-now we'd all be better off if we quit giving opinions
(including me) about oil filters, cost, dealers, service
managers and OCIs, and start posting some UOAs and
togeather we'll quickly figure out what really works
in the new 3.7
Honestly, I've been amazed at a lack of UOAs for the
G37 and new Z, here, on BITOG, and NICO sites, but
there sure is alot of speculation and opinion. The German
car guys are laughing their _sses off at us while
they know what works best in every one of their
engines and we can't figure out what works in only
one.
Data, we need data, anything less is ignorance.
for a 09G37X Sport, nav, premium, sport...yadayadayada
Learning about this Oil "thing" at the speed of light.
My opinion is there is way to much BS on this thread that is impertinant
opinion....or biased ignorance....sorry guys Where are the
UAOs you all are saying you are doing?
For discussion's sake here is what I have learned over the years.
- a good oil in a good engine won't insure the best results from either.
- More and more newer high tech engines are recommending
"designer oils" that are blended to meet the unique design
requirements of that engine
- many blends have gone back to a mineral base with
proprietory additives including synthetic stocks, esthers
and other secret stuff they won't share with others
- the word "synthetic" is overused, misunderstood and
not always the best stuff for many applications
- the word "ester" is overused, misunderstood and
not always the best stuff for many applications
- without UAOs, you're only guessing what is going
on between your engine and the oil
- the best oil in our engines is the one that gives
us the best overal UOA at a "decent" change interval
- my guess is that until some other oil marketers crack
the Nissan Ester formula, it's going to be the best
performing oil in terms of performance, cost, and
gas mileage.
-now we'd all be better off if we quit giving opinions
(including me) about oil filters, cost, dealers, service
managers and OCIs, and start posting some UOAs and
togeather we'll quickly figure out what really works
in the new 3.7
Honestly, I've been amazed at a lack of UOAs for the
G37 and new Z, here, on BITOG, and NICO sites, but
there sure is alot of speculation and opinion. The German
car guys are laughing their _sses off at us while
they know what works best in every one of their
engines and we can't figure out what works in only
one.
Data, we need data, anything less is ignorance.
#147
Every oil change I do gets a UOA done, on every car I own. My statements come from solid facts. Unit 6, on that particular car, is 300V. It is in line with every other 300V sample I have seen, regardless of engine make and model.
In fact, I UOA my differential and transmission fluid too.
#148
Every oil change I do gets a UOA done, on every car I own. My statements come from solid facts. Unit 6, on that particular car, is 300V. It is in line with every other 300V sample I have seen, regardless of engine make and model.
In fact, I UOA my differential and transmission fluid too.
a point that I am somehow missing. This information is useless to
VVEL 3.7 owners. I respectfully disagree with your statment that
infers the same results will be had with that oil in any engine.
You're neglecting that it's a Honda and not a 3.7 and that's what
all of us here want to see. FYI, you can get as good or better
results in that engine with Rotella T-syn 5w40 for $19 gallon with
a 5k OCI. .....Jon
#149
Mike thanks for the info' and the effort. You seem to want to make
a point that I am somehow missing. This information is useless to
VVEL 3.7 owners. I respectfully disagree with your statment that
infers the same results will be had with that oil in any engine.
You're neglecting that it's a Honda and not a 3.7 and that's what
all of us here want to see. FYI, you can get as good or better
results in that engine with Rotella T-syn 5w40 for $19 gallon with
a 5k OCI. .....Jon
a point that I am somehow missing. This information is useless to
VVEL 3.7 owners. I respectfully disagree with your statment that
infers the same results will be had with that oil in any engine.
You're neglecting that it's a Honda and not a 3.7 and that's what
all of us here want to see. FYI, you can get as good or better
results in that engine with Rotella T-syn 5w40 for $19 gallon with
a 5k OCI. .....Jon
In addition, it is a 5W40, which neither the F22C, nor VQ37VHR is designed for. The engine specifies a 30 weight operating temperature oil. Using a heavier oil does NOT provide additional protection, as the engine tolerances are specifically designed for a 30 weight. If your engine (and oil) temperature were to exceed the normal operating temperature, your engine oil would continue to get thinner, and the 40 weight would theoretically provide extra protection (provided that the oil isn't already breaking down from being too hot), but that is why the VQ37 has a limp mode that activates when oil temperature reaches approximately 240 degrees.
The reason I use 300V is that Group V base stock oils are proven to have zero shear. It does NOT break down under extended high-rpm, high-load use. Every oil analysis of 300V shows the same result, regardless of engine make and model. I have seen UOA of this oil in EJ20's, 4G63, B18, F20C, VQ35, VQ37, 2JZ, etc, and all show the same result. The oil simply does not break down (provided that you're not doing something stupid and letting oil temperature skyrocket).
Similar results will be had with ANY group V base stock oil. This would include other premium brands like Eunos and Amsoil. (sidebar: I don't condone the 'ultra long OCI' marketed by Amsoil without UOA). Motul is simply the most readily available oil to me, and I happen to receive a price break on it due to the volume I purchase it in.
The Nissan Ester Oil, which constantly comes up, is simply a regular oil with ester additive. Patent applications for the oil were denied simply because there is nothing 'new' about the oil, other than the sticker. Oil additives are used all the time.