OEM Cat Removal Suggestions?
03-02-2009, 03:47 AM
#31
Ok, so do the newest FI HFC's come with 4 gaskets? Like the Header -Cat connection? or do we still half to use High-Temp SIlicone? Need the info ASAP. as my Install at the dealer is this Wed. Need to know so I can buy a tube, or can I tell the dealer just to put on an OEM Gasket there? Thnx 
03-02-2009, 04:06 AM
#33
Administrator
Ok, so do the newest FI HFC's come with 4 gaskets? Like the Header -Cat connection? or do we still half to use High-Temp SIlicone? Need the info ASAP. as my Install at the dealer is this Wed. Need to know so I can buy a tube, or can I tell the dealer just to put on an OEM Gasket there? Thnx
I hope he doesn't kill me for quoting him with the PM he sent me but here goes
...By the way I want to reassure you that red RTV high temp. silicone works just fine. I have a twin turbo mustang that makes 25 psi. and about 1000 hp at the tires. I blew out the gaskets and then removed them. I went to straight silicone and many thousands of miles later there are no leaks.
We are working on gaskets but because Infiniti never supplied or made one from the factory, we are starting from scratch...
We are working on gaskets but because Infiniti never supplied or made one from the factory, we are starting from scratch...
03-02-2009, 05:37 AM
#34
^im pretty sure he posted that up in maxs thread anyway. IIRC.
I was gonna attempt it myself, but sometime this week im bringing my car to a shop to check out the coilovers, so they told me 160 to install the HFCs and my sways. Sooo ill just let them do it.
its the same shop that did ChoyBoys, and they didnt have any problem with his.
I was gonna attempt it myself, but sometime this week im bringing my car to a shop to check out the coilovers, so they told me 160 to install the HFCs and my sways. Sooo ill just let them do it.
its the same shop that did ChoyBoys, and they didnt have any problem with his.
03-02-2009, 11:55 PM
#36
you should calm down... who did you buy it from? i take it you bought it from berk since you have the gasket... there are NO gaskets for the 2 bolt side of the hfc... there is only gaskets for the header to hfc side. as i recall, there are only 8 bolts. not 10. because one of them are a stud that connects to the 3 flange piece of the hfc.
lastly, take a chill pill =]
lastly, take a chill pill =]
03-03-2009, 12:46 AM
#37
you should calm down... who did you buy it from? i take it you bought it from berk since you have the gasket... there are NO gaskets for the 2 bolt side of the hfc... there is only gaskets for the header to hfc side. as i recall, there are only 8 bolts. not 10. because one of them are a stud that connects to the 3 flange piece of the hfc.
lastly, take a chill pill =]
lastly, take a chill pill =]
Common if u lived more than 2500mi away, and are excited to get the new toy put in, only to find out, not all of the toy is there to put together, get all bummed! HAHA, but all is fine now.
03-05-2009, 12:06 PM
#40
damn sorry to hear about your nitemare bro! I usually do mods myself, but after reading horror story after horror story, told myself better let the pros do it! So took it to my local Infiniti dealer which is mod frndly! And told me there book time said about 2hrs, but it took them about 3 1/2 hrs to do!! Said the top bolts were very difficult to remove! So glad I did not try to do it! Since even the dealer had hard time! And in the process they broke one of my 02 sensors in the header. So lucky I be getting it replaced under warranty! I wish u all the luck in getting your HFC's installed!
03-05-2009, 01:00 PM
#42
To precursor my below story, Betty is right. I've worked on cars, switched the cats on my G35, done a lot of things, but never been in this situation.
In trying to get the top bolt off, we rounded 2 sockets using a breaker bar and floor jack handle together for maximum torque and 2 guys and the bolt would not budge or break. Eventually, the bolt head rounded. I proceeded to drilling, and while I can give you the exact specifications of parts to buy to get a 3 foot extension to drill that bolt from the engine bay, I'm not going to. I've spent $60 in drill bits and have nothing to show but an unaligned hole through the bolt that still won't budge it and a majority of the head is gone. I would recomend this to no one. I now have nothing to grab it with either due to the shape.
I have 4 options:
-Spend another $10 on a sharp bit and pray to everything holy that I can start another hole on the other side of the remaining head and hope to remove all of it so the cat just comes out
-Purchase the "rounded bolt remover" from Sears. Basically a reverse threaded socket looking thing that is supposed to grab any rounded bolt. Due to all of the stress the bolt has been under, maybe it gives way
-Give up, leave it on, and just enjoy my HKS exhaust without the HFC's
-Cut the cat off as high as possible and work at it from the back side
Each has a negative:
-I get a hole started and get most of the head removed, it still won't budge, and then I am really screwed
-I'm out $20 more on something that doesn't work
-I just bought the HFC and now would sell them, and get a discouraging feeling of emotion that makes me want to throw something
-I already talked to a very reputable exhaust shop, and without seeing it they have their doubts that they can do anything better. Once the cat is gone, the only way to get it to someone for massive help is to tow. Hell no.
Of all the times I have looked on the forums before doing a mod, I just didn't even look assuming that this would be as easy as the G35. Wrong. Listen to my horror story, take it to a pro.
In trying to get the top bolt off, we rounded 2 sockets using a breaker bar and floor jack handle together for maximum torque and 2 guys and the bolt would not budge or break. Eventually, the bolt head rounded. I proceeded to drilling, and while I can give you the exact specifications of parts to buy to get a 3 foot extension to drill that bolt from the engine bay, I'm not going to. I've spent $60 in drill bits and have nothing to show but an unaligned hole through the bolt that still won't budge it and a majority of the head is gone. I would recomend this to no one. I now have nothing to grab it with either due to the shape.
I have 4 options:
-Spend another $10 on a sharp bit and pray to everything holy that I can start another hole on the other side of the remaining head and hope to remove all of it so the cat just comes out
-Purchase the "rounded bolt remover" from Sears. Basically a reverse threaded socket looking thing that is supposed to grab any rounded bolt. Due to all of the stress the bolt has been under, maybe it gives way
-Give up, leave it on, and just enjoy my HKS exhaust without the HFC's
-Cut the cat off as high as possible and work at it from the back side
Each has a negative:
-I get a hole started and get most of the head removed, it still won't budge, and then I am really screwed
-I'm out $20 more on something that doesn't work
-I just bought the HFC and now would sell them, and get a discouraging feeling of emotion that makes me want to throw something
-I already talked to a very reputable exhaust shop, and without seeing it they have their doubts that they can do anything better. Once the cat is gone, the only way to get it to someone for massive help is to tow. Hell no.
Of all the times I have looked on the forums before doing a mod, I just didn't even look assuming that this would be as easy as the G35. Wrong. Listen to my horror story, take it to a pro.
About the only way I'd even think of trying this myself is if the car were brand spanking new, maybe less than 200 miles or a week old when the exhaust components have not been through the cycle of heat expansion/cooling contraction hundreds of times.
03-06-2009, 10:41 PM
#43
i opened mine with a impact gun. It is the biggest impact gone i have ever come across. Just did it this last weekend and it is soooooo worth the pain. If you are working on getting the cat off, i would suggest installing the headers as well. Makes the car come alive and roar.
03-06-2009, 10:45 PM
#44
Went to autozone got the most strongest extension they had and used that with the impact gun. I sprayed the bolt with WD 40 and ran the car for 10 mins and that will get the bolt nice and toasty to be pounded by the impact gun and after it cracks, it still requires some muscle to open. I would put the bottom bolts back on and try to get the top one open first. That's what worked for me.
03-12-2009, 03:56 PM
#45
I waited four pages for someone to say it. Finally Jatt did it.
Soak the bolt with lubricant. Run the car to temp. Soak the bolt again and then attack it FIRST. This will give the rest of the exhaust time to cool before you get to it.
I've used this strategy in the past (because torching the engine comp. is not my idea of a fun afternoon in the shop) and it does work.
But you have to soak the bolt before you try to get it off....like a DAY or TWO before...
Soak the bolt with lubricant. Run the car to temp. Soak the bolt again and then attack it FIRST. This will give the rest of the exhaust time to cool before you get to it.
I've used this strategy in the past (because torching the engine comp. is not my idea of a fun afternoon in the shop) and it does work.
But you have to soak the bolt before you try to get it off....like a DAY or TWO before...
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