G37 Sedan

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Old 10-24-2024 | 09:53 AM
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Glassmith's Avatar
Glassmith
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Headlights

Hello, I am new here and need some advice, know there has been multiple posts on this issue. But I’m not sure if there is any current ones. I have a 2010 Infiniti g37x sedan. My passenger headlight went out a couple years back. Dealer said it was the ballast, per usual. And I wasn’t spending the amount they asked and just risked it with just the fogs and one headlight. Well the other day the other one burnt out also. I was driving and smelled electrical burning a little bit, I was hoping it was other vehicles on the road, but it could have been me with the light. lol. So now I am forced to do something about it. I’m not sure if the driver is just a bulb issue or ballast also. I got my car maybe 5 years ago and it originally came from Canada with all the time DTR lights. I’m assuming with me not being able to turn them off and this much time. I’m not surprised if it is the ballasts.
My questions are;

-Which ballast is a good option to swap out?

-is it better to mod your oem lights opposed to buying aftermarket. ( I’m afraid to do this ) I figured since I had to replace stuff, I wanted the sequential bar and better looking design.

-which headlights are reputable for a replacement. ( I want brighter lights )

-is it true that the HID lights are just as good or better than LED, so I don’t need to convert.
Old 10-24-2024 | 11:03 AM
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You're probably right about the Daytime Running Light system being responsible for the demise of your xenon bulbs. If that's how your car is equipped your low-beams have been on for every driven mile, or km.

I don't mean to discourage you - but getting into entire headlamp mods would be much more expensive than just replacing your D2S bulbs and if necessary the ballasts. But you should do some testing to be sure which of those components you need. Be aware that there are individual fuses for each headlamp in the IPDM - the fusebox behind the battery. Fuse 56 is for the driver's side and 57 for the passenger's side. (See below) There is also a low-beam relay in the IPDM that sends power to both those fuses. The Factory Service Manual for your external lighting is here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...2010%2FEXL.pdf
Scroll down below that viewing window and you can "click here to download a copy".

That book should help you understand your system and would allow you to be sure power is getting everywhere. Beyond that, Amazon has a bunch of options for D2S bulbs and ballasts which don't seem terribly expensive. Some even say they are brighter than our stock 35W bulbs.

One last thing - switching to high-beams physically moves a baffle inside our headlamps. When you pull back the light control stick on the left side of the steering wheel (like to flash your brights) you should hear a click from each headlight assembly. There's no 2nd bulb for high-beams, it just changes the shape of the mirrors to open up the projected light of the low-beams.


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Glassmith (10-24-2024)
Old 10-24-2024 | 11:10 AM
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That’s what I’m assuming with the bulbs / ballast. Never being able to turn them off. The car is about to roll 160k miles. I will be checking those fuses soon when I can pull it into my garage. Maybe this weekend. I planned on grabbing a ballast of Amazon or equivalent somewhere else. And the bulbs I’ve been seeing people like are Philips, or something 6k for the best lighting. I just didn’t want to start tearing into it until I have atleast bought 2 ballasts and 2 bulbs.

im not really wanting to mod my lights, but I figured I could just get some aftermarket ones to look meaner / change it up. But everything i see about them is not great. The lights are dimmer than oem, and sometimes they don’t line up properly with the frame of the car.
Old 10-24-2024 | 11:17 AM
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^Good info here.

D2S bulbs will be better than LED headlight bulb replacements. A slightly higher "K value" (color) will also help with output. I changed my OEM bulbs (~4300K) to 6000K (slightly bluer) Morimoto units from theretrofitsource.com and love them. They are not too blue, but if that worries you, go with the 5000K bulbs.

Start with bulbs. Replace with new units and see what happens. If one side still does not illuminate, swap the bulbs from side to side. If the same side still does not illuminate, swap the ballasts. Between swapping bulbs and swapping ballasts, you should be able to determine what parts are good and which are bad.

For the most part, the OEM ballasts are pretty reliable. I have 20+year old ballasts on my S2000 that are still good! However, things can break. If you find you need a ballast, check ebay for used OEM units. You can also look for aftermarket replacements on sites like the above mentioned theretrofitsource.com or ddmtuning.com. I would try to avoid most of the Amazon or ebay aftermarket stuff as reliability can be an issue with these high power electronics.
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Glassmith (10-24-2024)
Old 10-24-2024 | 09:38 PM
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I use Philips 85122C1 D2S Standard Xenon HID .... imho very good lighting and plug-and-plug. Try new bulbs and swapping ballasts to confirm if it is just the bulbs or more.
Old 10-26-2024 | 11:40 AM
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G10
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From: Central NJ
I am also in hunt to replace my bulbs but wanted to pan out my options and after reading up some review I am certain that i don't want to upgrade to any after market housing.
I am not about the looks. I am all about the function, its need to do factory or better job with lighting..which is why the after market housing with builtin LED is out of the question. They just looks good but don't function good.
While D2S bulbs would be the right option ,I am wondering if anyone has tried these lastfit converter to LED

https://www.lasfit.com/products/pro-...rward-lighting
Any feed back would be appreciate

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