Button on trunk not working
#1
Button on trunk not working
2012 g37 sedan
The button on the trunk to open it isn't working, but the fob and interior trunk buttons work.
I thought it could be the antenna behind the bumper so I replaced it but that didn't work. If I probe the power wire in the antenna wiring harness I get no power under any conditions (engine on, off, key fob near/far, trunk button pressed/not pressed).
Should the antenna power wire have constant power since it needs to constantly be scanning for the fob?
I couldn't find any breaks in the wiring in the trunk, but stopped where it goes into the the interior
I'm thinking at this point there's either a break in the wiring harness somewhere (although everything else works fine, so seems unusual it would just be the trunk button) or problematic bcm?
Prior to this happening I did have the cars ECU flashed at an Infiniti dealership with the newest software because of a TSB .... maybe during the ECU flash the bcm went wonky and lost that functionality?
Is there any nearby wire I could steal power from? My understand is it's 6v and everything around it (e.g., license plate lights) is 12v so will fry the antenna.
The button on the trunk to open it isn't working, but the fob and interior trunk buttons work.
I thought it could be the antenna behind the bumper so I replaced it but that didn't work. If I probe the power wire in the antenna wiring harness I get no power under any conditions (engine on, off, key fob near/far, trunk button pressed/not pressed).
Should the antenna power wire have constant power since it needs to constantly be scanning for the fob?
I couldn't find any breaks in the wiring in the trunk, but stopped where it goes into the the interior
I'm thinking at this point there's either a break in the wiring harness somewhere (although everything else works fine, so seems unusual it would just be the trunk button) or problematic bcm?
Prior to this happening I did have the cars ECU flashed at an Infiniti dealership with the newest software because of a TSB .... maybe during the ECU flash the bcm went wonky and lost that functionality?
Is there any nearby wire I could steal power from? My understand is it's 6v and everything around it (e.g., license plate lights) is 12v so will fry the antenna.
#2
Here's your FSM for "Door & Lock" which also covers iKey functions:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...2012%2FDLK.pdf
Scroll down below the viewing window and "click here to download a copy".
I'm pretty sure the "Cancel" switch in the glovebox also affects that Trunk Lid Open Request Switch on the back wing, but you know that. Your problem could just be that button on the trunk lid. I don't think that's a simple voltage-type of circuit, it looks like a kind of scanning signal generated by the BCM. But I think pressing that switch simply grounds out that "signal".
Have you checked all the wires running through the rubber boots from the body to the trunk lid? That's a known spot to look for broken or frayed wires. You should be able to pop the boot out of the metal to check the wires. There might be a boot on each side of the lid.
That antenna in the bumper is only activated momentarily when the Trunk Lid Opener Request Switch is pressed. It's not constantly searching for the fob. And again it's likely a generated type of signal and not a readable voltage on either side of the antenna when activated. It only works momentarily when you press the button - transmitting a "call" to the fob and the fob answers with its code.
Hope you can figure it out.
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...2012%2FDLK.pdf
Scroll down below the viewing window and "click here to download a copy".
I'm pretty sure the "Cancel" switch in the glovebox also affects that Trunk Lid Open Request Switch on the back wing, but you know that. Your problem could just be that button on the trunk lid. I don't think that's a simple voltage-type of circuit, it looks like a kind of scanning signal generated by the BCM. But I think pressing that switch simply grounds out that "signal".
Have you checked all the wires running through the rubber boots from the body to the trunk lid? That's a known spot to look for broken or frayed wires. You should be able to pop the boot out of the metal to check the wires. There might be a boot on each side of the lid.
That antenna in the bumper is only activated momentarily when the Trunk Lid Opener Request Switch is pressed. It's not constantly searching for the fob. And again it's likely a generated type of signal and not a readable voltage on either side of the antenna when activated. It only works momentarily when you press the button - transmitting a "call" to the fob and the fob answers with its code.
Hope you can figure it out.
#3
Thanks for the direct link - I was tearing my hair out trying to find where it was in it (i.e., trunk lid open request switch).
The switch in the glovebox works as expected, and the wiring harness boot/loom looked good where it folds into the trunk.
Upon studying the FSM I see the open request switch needs to show continuity when the button is pressed. I tested continuity and mine has none, so hopefully it's as simple as that (I had actually disregarded the switch because all of my prior searching led to either the bumper antenna failing or the bcm, never the open request switch itself being an issue).
The switch in the glovebox works as expected, and the wiring harness boot/loom looked good where it folds into the trunk.
Upon studying the FSM I see the open request switch needs to show continuity when the button is pressed. I tested continuity and mine has none, so hopefully it's as simple as that (I had actually disregarded the switch because all of my prior searching led to either the bumper antenna failing or the bcm, never the open request switch itself being an issue).
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