Replacing F/R crossmembers - recommendations
#1
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Replacing F/R crossmembers - recommendations
I need some "affordable" front and rear crossmembers to replace the rusted TF units on the car. This is for my sons car so it's not going to the track but will be used on the street. I could go to LKQ but these things rust and don't want to buy used/rusty. I have seen a lot of aftermarket from Megan $89 to $400 elaborate units! I am not in the $400 category as this car is a 2010 G37X with 257,xxx miles with new gallery gaskets and want to keep it going. What are my options?!?
544B2-EG300 and 55451-EG010 from what I can tell are the part numbers.
544B2-EG300 and 55451-EG010 from what I can tell are the part numbers.
#4
You can use the updated one, 544B2-JK51B.
When I replaced mine, I found the same front cross member off a G35X from Texas, had zero rust for $95 plus $100 shipping (544B2-EG300). I highly recommend new mounting bolts as a lot of times they get damaged / destroyed when trying to remove a badly rusted one (11298-EG30A).
When I replaced mine, I found the same front cross member off a G35X from Texas, had zero rust for $95 plus $100 shipping (544B2-EG300). I highly recommend new mounting bolts as a lot of times they get damaged / destroyed when trying to remove a badly rusted one (11298-EG30A).
Last edited by Krzysztof47; 02-04-2024 at 03:53 PM.
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m3clubracer (02-05-2024)
#5
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You can use the updated one, 544B2-JK51B.
When I replaced mine, I found the same front cross member off a G35X from Texas, had zero rust for $95 plus $100 shipping (544B2-EG300). I highly recommend new mounting bolts as a lot of times they get damaged / destroyed when trying to remove a badly rusted one (11298-EG30A).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNLT...ist=WL&index=1
When I replaced mine, I found the same front cross member off a G35X from Texas, had zero rust for $95 plus $100 shipping (544B2-EG300). I highly recommend new mounting bolts as a lot of times they get damaged / destroyed when trying to remove a badly rusted one (11298-EG30A).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNLT...ist=WL&index=1
#6
I was in the process of installing the rear when you posted this. I just went to LKQ in CLT and got a front and rear. $100.80 total. Rear was pristine front was a compromise. Will referb the little scrapes and rust. Word of caution is that LKQ will overcharge you unless you have a screenshot of the names and prices like I did. I knew they would. No Q models in the yard for that updated model or I would have gotten it...
Last edited by Krzysztof47; 02-05-2024 at 08:40 AM.
#7
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Interesting, that rev, according to https://www.infinitipartsnet.com/oem...ber-544b2jk51b, it is only '19/'20.
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#8
A word of caution: Be wary when searching for parts from those "discount" parts houses. While most are decent, they often use outdated parts catalogues and, as we all know, Nissan loves to supersede parts numbers faster than lightening. Additionally, some of these places rely on Amazon and eBay parts catalogues which are notorious for errors.
That said, the above part number will work:
That said, the above part number will work:
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 02-05-2024 at 01:46 PM.
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Krzysztof47 (02-05-2024)
#9
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I used to work for and still supply Nissan, and they are unique sans Honda, with revs.
This is what the link I posted says it supersedes. @ILM-NC G37S where was that from?
544B2-JK50A, 544B2-JK50B, 544B2-JK51A
This is what the link I posted says it supersedes. @ILM-NC G37S where was that from?
544B2-JK50A, 544B2-JK50B, 544B2-JK51A
#10
Above from infinitiorlandparkparts.com and amayama.com
I almost exclusively use jp-carparts.com and amayama.com as their catalogues are usually the most recent with amayama having the best prices even with international shipping factored in. I also recommend partsouq.com as well. For US sources, there is always parts.infinitiusa.com and, of late, infinitioforlandparkparts.com have been my "go-to's."
The only issue with most US parts houses is that many parts for these cars are automatically being listed as "Discontinued" or "No Longer Available" even though overseas 99% of those parts are still available/ in production including many paint-specific parts. I recently purchased a new exterior A-pillar trim piece in my specific paint code (K57) for hundreds less than here in the US (if it was "available").
I almost exclusively use jp-carparts.com and amayama.com as their catalogues are usually the most recent with amayama having the best prices even with international shipping factored in. I also recommend partsouq.com as well. For US sources, there is always parts.infinitiusa.com and, of late, infinitioforlandparkparts.com have been my "go-to's."
The only issue with most US parts houses is that many parts for these cars are automatically being listed as "Discontinued" or "No Longer Available" even though overseas 99% of those parts are still available/ in production including many paint-specific parts. I recently purchased a new exterior A-pillar trim piece in my specific paint code (K57) for hundreds less than here in the US (if it was "available").
The following 2 users liked this post by ILM-NC G37S:
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#12
You can use the updated one, 544B2-JK51B.
When I replaced mine, I found the same front cross member off a G35X from Texas, had zero rust for $95 plus $100 shipping (544B2-EG300). I highly recommend new mounting bolts as a lot of times they get damaged / destroyed when trying to remove a badly rusted one (11298-EG30A).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNLT...ist=WL&index=1
When I replaced mine, I found the same front cross member off a G35X from Texas, had zero rust for $95 plus $100 shipping (544B2-EG300). I highly recommend new mounting bolts as a lot of times they get damaged / destroyed when trying to remove a badly rusted one (11298-EG30A).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNLT...ist=WL&index=1
#13
I believe the 2012 model was the first to introduce the updated cross member brace. Should fit without any issue. But you will 100% need new bolts, unless they are not rusted. The Z1 brace is probably a little lighter and stiffer, though I never looked at it.
#14
seems like general consensus is to avoid aftermarkets..why?