PO106 Can't be fixed
#1
PO106 Can't be fixed
All, I read the other threads in the PO106 Code. I replaced the MAP and reset the ECU. That didn't fix it. I replaced the spark plugs and got new boots that didn't fix it.
I begrudgingly took it to Grubbs in Grapevine Texas, They reset it with Connect3 and it still has the PO106. This was after paying $500 for nothing.
Then the dealer said let me have it some more, and they said the Evap Purge Valve was sticking open. I replaced it and dealership reset my ECU. Still I get the same PO106 Code.
The dealer has the car and now they are saying that I need to replace my throttle body's and put the infiniti OEM Air box back on. (I have a K&N intake) This is $5,200!!!!!
Does anyone have any guidance? Thoughts on what else to try before I replace my throttle bodies. I think that Grubbs is lost as to what to fix and is spitballing fixes.
I begrudgingly took it to Grubbs in Grapevine Texas, They reset it with Connect3 and it still has the PO106. This was after paying $500 for nothing.
Then the dealer said let me have it some more, and they said the Evap Purge Valve was sticking open. I replaced it and dealership reset my ECU. Still I get the same PO106 Code.
The dealer has the car and now they are saying that I need to replace my throttle body's and put the infiniti OEM Air box back on. (I have a K&N intake) This is $5,200!!!!!
Does anyone have any guidance? Thoughts on what else to try before I replace my throttle bodies. I think that Grubbs is lost as to what to fix and is spitballing fixes.
#2
Double check for vaccume leaks
that includes the pcv and purge systems
Make sure you dont have any bad sensors, wires or half *** grounds
clean the throttle bodies
perform an idle relearn
If your issue persists and the ECU is stock, have the dealer perform any and all ROM updates available.
at least one of those updates deals with this particular code.
If it's tuned, talk to your tuner before going to a dealer
that includes the pcv and purge systems
Make sure you dont have any bad sensors, wires or half *** grounds
clean the throttle bodies
perform an idle relearn
If your issue persists and the ECU is stock, have the dealer perform any and all ROM updates available.
at least one of those updates deals with this particular code.
If it's tuned, talk to your tuner before going to a dealer
#3
I attached (or tried to attach) a service bulletin that references the P0106 code that is applicable to the 2010 to 2012 G37, not sure if you fall into that category. If the attachment doesn't go through, I will PM it. For reference the title is ITB12-026a.
Some thoughts:
Was the replacement MAP sensor you installed an OEM product? Just mentioned this because the ECU sometimes doesnt play well with non-OE parts.
Have you looked into the wiring?
I dug into the FSM for the connections between the ECU and the MAP Sensor.
It shows the following:
ECU pin 38 sends a signal to MAP Sensor pin 2, the signal is 1.2V at idle and 1.5V at 2000RPM.
ECU pin 60 sends the 5V power source to pin 1 of the MAP Sensor.
ECU pin 96 provides a ground to pin 3 of the MAP Sensor.
Note that the power and ground from the ECU are shared with the Bank 1 Cam Phaser and Power Steering Pressure Switch - in that order. Assuming there are no issues with either of these, then you would only need to verify the wiring from pin 1 of the Power Steering Pressure Sensor to pin 3 of the MAP Sensor for the ground circuit and pin 3 of the Power Steering Pressure Sensor to pin 1 o the MAP sensor to verify the 5V power curcuit.
Wiggle the connectors around if you decide to do wiring checks. I had a bad Bank 1 MAF connector that plagued me for years until I finally stopped changing parts and began to troubleshoot.
I probably added more confusion then help, but the bottom line is to begin looking at other possibilities before throwing more parts at it. @SkysG37 had some great ideas as well and his mention of an ECU update blends with the attached Tech Service Bulletin
Keep us updated!
Some thoughts:
Was the replacement MAP sensor you installed an OEM product? Just mentioned this because the ECU sometimes doesnt play well with non-OE parts.
Have you looked into the wiring?
I dug into the FSM for the connections between the ECU and the MAP Sensor.
It shows the following:
ECU pin 38 sends a signal to MAP Sensor pin 2, the signal is 1.2V at idle and 1.5V at 2000RPM.
ECU pin 60 sends the 5V power source to pin 1 of the MAP Sensor.
ECU pin 96 provides a ground to pin 3 of the MAP Sensor.
Note that the power and ground from the ECU are shared with the Bank 1 Cam Phaser and Power Steering Pressure Switch - in that order. Assuming there are no issues with either of these, then you would only need to verify the wiring from pin 1 of the Power Steering Pressure Sensor to pin 3 of the MAP Sensor for the ground circuit and pin 3 of the Power Steering Pressure Sensor to pin 1 o the MAP sensor to verify the 5V power curcuit.
Wiggle the connectors around if you decide to do wiring checks. I had a bad Bank 1 MAF connector that plagued me for years until I finally stopped changing parts and began to troubleshoot.
I probably added more confusion then help, but the bottom line is to begin looking at other possibilities before throwing more parts at it. @SkysG37 had some great ideas as well and his mention of an ECU update blends with the attached Tech Service Bulletin
Keep us updated!
Last edited by beefychicken; 12-04-2023 at 02:49 PM. Reason: am white space challenged
#4
I just asked the dealership about the ROM Update.
When I did my plugs, I did clean my bodies completely. I also changed my oil and got new wiper blades. This is funny because the dealership added these 3 services to my estimate. I wrote a stern letter to expressing that they were trying to fleece me with $720 of uneccesary and uneeded repairs. They threw the service tech under the bus and made HIM call me to appologize.
1: The oil is crystal clear...he said he saw a sticker on the windsheild that said I needed a change. Never bothering to look at the oil.
2: The wiper blade had a "Streak" to which I said you couldn't tell that they are litterally a week old and look brand new?
3: He said he looked at the body and had some carbon on ring. I said both of them. No, he "quickly" looked at one of them.
Car is a 2011 G37 Sedan Journey, 141,000 miles
When I did my plugs, I did clean my bodies completely. I also changed my oil and got new wiper blades. This is funny because the dealership added these 3 services to my estimate. I wrote a stern letter to expressing that they were trying to fleece me with $720 of uneccesary and uneeded repairs. They threw the service tech under the bus and made HIM call me to appologize.
1: The oil is crystal clear...he said he saw a sticker on the windsheild that said I needed a change. Never bothering to look at the oil.
2: The wiper blade had a "Streak" to which I said you couldn't tell that they are litterally a week old and look brand new?
3: He said he looked at the body and had some carbon on ring. I said both of them. No, he "quickly" looked at one of them.
Car is a 2011 G37 Sedan Journey, 141,000 miles
#5
Double check for vaccume leaks
that includes the pcv and purge systems
Make sure you dont have any bad sensors, wires or half *** grounds
clean the throttle bodies
perform an idle relearn
If your issue persists and the ECU is stock, have the dealer perform any and all ROM updates available.
at least one of those updates deals with this particular code.
If it's tuned, talk to your tuner before going to a dealer
that includes the pcv and purge systems
Make sure you dont have any bad sensors, wires or half *** grounds
clean the throttle bodies
perform an idle relearn
If your issue persists and the ECU is stock, have the dealer perform any and all ROM updates available.
at least one of those updates deals with this particular code.
If it's tuned, talk to your tuner before going to a dealer
#6
@lektrix ,
Assuming everything is stock (no tune or stuff like that) the ECU update can only be done by the dealer. if there is some custom work done on the ECU /engine then you would need to deal with whoever did the work.
You would have to contact your local dealer and ask about pricing.
The update being referenced in this thread is noted as relevant for the 2010 to 2012 models. All things considered, there could have been some manufacturing escapes that would extend that timeframe, so it doesn't hurt to try - well it might hurt your wallet : )
Assuming everything is stock (no tune or stuff like that) the ECU update can only be done by the dealer. if there is some custom work done on the ECU /engine then you would need to deal with whoever did the work.
You would have to contact your local dealer and ask about pricing.
The update being referenced in this thread is noted as relevant for the 2010 to 2012 models. All things considered, there could have been some manufacturing escapes that would extend that timeframe, so it doesn't hurt to try - well it might hurt your wallet : )
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