Dreaded Driver Side Grommet Leak
#1
Dreaded Driver Side Leak
Been chasing a leak, thought it was just contained to passenger but it is not, found water under carpet on driver side. It is not the sunroof drains this time, they were previously addressed when I dropped the headliner, all 8 ends. I know I am getting water on the passenger side likely through a loose harness grommet and loose cowl possibly dripping water into the air intake duct as well, ****ing dumb design. Those are soon to be addressed, likely in this post at some point. I have scoured the interwebs on any info regarding this driver side grommet and can't find much. It appears to be an absolute bear to reach. I am thinking the easiest, is just to clean and wipe everything real good then find a clear silicone with a tip that I can reach down into the brake compartment and spread silicone between grommet and firewall. How has everyone else attack this fix? Anyone pulling the booster to make room? Need some ideas here...
Driver Side Carpet pull up, water under styrofoam
Under driver dash, arrow showing firewall entry, rust on bracket
Brake box with cowl removed, arrow showing firewall entry
Dirty grommet
Best angle of failing grommet
Driver Side Carpet pull up, water under styrofoam
Under driver dash, arrow showing firewall entry, rust on bracket
Brake box with cowl removed, arrow showing firewall entry
Dirty grommet
Best angle of failing grommet
Last edited by kickin_it; 05-11-2023 at 12:12 PM. Reason: Clarity
#2
Moderador
Though not that common, these can simulate the same leak as sunroof.
You dont have to pull the booster but moving the ABS pump lets you get in there. You dont have to disconnect the pump however the 3 12mm nuts need to be removed and the pump can be lifted a bit while connected.
Pull on the harness and pop that grommet out of place ( about 6 inches worth of room) Proceed to clean that area really well, lastly some acetone around the lip and grommet to remove the last bits of glue and cake some Heavy duty RTV (avoid clear) around the lip and pop it back in place. Just like a caulking process, run your finger around the whole grommet to create the Perfect seal transition (tile/bathroom caulk finish style). Your leak will stop. Good luck
You dont have to pull the booster but moving the ABS pump lets you get in there. You dont have to disconnect the pump however the 3 12mm nuts need to be removed and the pump can be lifted a bit while connected.
Pull on the harness and pop that grommet out of place ( about 6 inches worth of room) Proceed to clean that area really well, lastly some acetone around the lip and grommet to remove the last bits of glue and cake some Heavy duty RTV (avoid clear) around the lip and pop it back in place. Just like a caulking process, run your finger around the whole grommet to create the Perfect seal transition (tile/bathroom caulk finish style). Your leak will stop. Good luck
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kickin_it (04-07-2023)
#3
Fantastic answer, will report back with pics when the rain stops. I think this all started when the windshield was replaced. When I removed the cowl, noticed I don't have the plastic "cords" people reference and I guess because it was AFM windshield, I do not have the plastic "catch" on the back side of the windshield. I did pick up a few different types of weather-stripping foam to replace all the foam on the underside of the cowl. Seems odd the rubber seal doesn't run the length of the car either.
Cowl Parts
Cowl Parts
#4
Moderador
Correct, that small piece of weather strip is what keeps that cowl from receiving water. They all deteriorate from harsh environment + acidic washer fluid. Toast the rubber and cracks and breaks.
Windshield replacement will finish the job as it wont go back together properly. I believe a few members found an amazon universal replacement for this cowl.
This + sealed grommet will solve your issue.
Windshield replacement will finish the job as it wont go back together properly. I believe a few members found an amazon universal replacement for this cowl.
This + sealed grommet will solve your issue.
#5
Edit* Post #239 I think this is it.
Edit** Or the TRIM LOK INC X2199HT - P shaped w/ adhesive
Last edited by kickin_it; 04-07-2023 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Clarity
#6
Sunny and 70 tomorrow, knocking out this entire cowl project with pictures, trying to get my ducks in a row. All of these projects reference the weather stripping to eliminate the popping noise, which I though typically effected coupes over sedans. I still have all of my pieces as outlined in the FSM below and all appear to be in decent shape. I am replacing all of the foam (#12) as marked below. When people are performing this mod, are they replacing the seal (#2) with the new stripping or adding it in addition to? I though the idea was to run the P shaped strip with adhesive back on to the base of the windshield and the P facing up, then putting all of the cowl pieces back including the (#2) seal? Or does adding the P seal eliminate the need for the (#2) seal? Has anyone added the P seal to the glass and then added D shaped stuck to the cowl? AustinHardware Dot Com sells the trim-lock P seal by the foot at $0.90 and then slaps $15 shipping on it. I will be replacing all of the black plastic push snaps, have bags of new ones. Has anyone 3d printed a plastic shield that can cover the air intake a bit more?
cowl parts
cowl parts
#7
Premier Member
iTrader: (6)
Sunny and 70 tomorrow, knocking out this entire cowl project with pictures, trying to get my ducks in a row. All of these projects reference the weather stripping to eliminate the popping noise, which I though typically effected coupes over sedans. I still have all of my pieces as outlined in the FSM below and all appear to be in decent shape. I am replacing all of the foam (#12) as marked below. When people are performing this mod, are they replacing the seal (#2) with the new stripping or adding it in addition to? I though the idea was to run the P shaped strip with adhesive back on to the base of the windshield and the P facing up, then putting all of the cowl pieces back including the (#2) seal? Or does adding the P seal eliminate the need for the (#2) seal? Has anyone added the P seal to the glass and then added D shaped stuck to the cowl? AustinHardware Dot Com sells the trim-lock P seal by the foot at $0.90 and then slaps $15 shipping on it. I will be replacing all of the black plastic push snaps, have bags of new ones. Has anyone 3d printed a plastic shield that can cover the air intake a bit more?
cowl parts
cowl parts
Trending Topics
#8
Registered Member
Brake booster compartment filled with water
Sunny and 70 tomorrow, knocking out this entire cowl project with pictures, trying to get my ducks in a row. All of these projects reference the weather stripping to eliminate the popping noise, which I though typically effected coupes over sedans. I still have all of my pieces as outlined in the FSM below and all appear to be in decent shape. I am replacing all of the foam (#12) as marked below. When people are performing this mod, are they replacing the seal (#2) with the new stripping or adding it in addition to? I though the idea was to run the P shaped strip with adhesive back on to the base of the windshield and the P facing up, then putting all of the cowl pieces back including the (#2) seal? Or does adding the P seal eliminate the need for the (#2) seal? Has anyone added the P seal to the glass and then added D shaped stuck to the cowl? AustinHardware Dot Com sells the trim-lock P seal by the foot at $0.90 and then slaps $15 shipping on it. I will be replacing all of the black plastic push snaps, have bags of new ones. Has anyone 3d printed a plastic shield that can cover the air intake a bit more?
cowl parts
cowl parts
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ChefMatt (05-02-2023)
#11
I'm still working on this damn thing. I replaced all the foam on the cowl pieces last night and finally sealed all the firewall grommets. I will get pictures and products updated today/tonight. Hoping to attack it hard this afternoon before the rain this weekend.
#13
Premier Member
iTrader: (6)
Yes Amayama and Partsouq are the best for buying OEM parts. The prices are mostly 50% cheaper or more sometimes, even with international shipping it's almost always cheaper than the dealer. Very large and heavy items though will cost more to get from overseas.
#14
I replaced all of it, the EPT foam on the cowl pieces as well as the battery and brake lids and covers. I also purchased a black foam rope to fill in the cowl channel gap. I also "deleted" the air check valve and just added a generic valve and blue silicone hose. I finally got it wrapped up last night. I know, it's dirty, kick rocks kid. I'll get some more photos up but I'm happy with the repair so far.
Black Foam Rope Install (6mm)
Finished Cowl Update
Black Foam Rope Install (6mm)
Finished Cowl Update
Last edited by kickin_it; 05-05-2023 at 02:03 PM.
#15
Looking back through my pics, I did not take pictures of the new foam on the cowls before install. IF I need to pull them for any reason, I'll snap a pic. Here are some other shots.
Generic Check Valve Install and Pipe Delete
Cover, new foam
cover, new foam
Generic Check Valve Install and Pipe Delete
Cover, new foam
cover, new foam