G37sPhoton

where are you all finding these? it seems simple but i can't find this specific nut combo.
i bought some M6-1.0 torque lock nuts and they sort of work but are not threading on correctly ... junk yard maybe?

dkmura

I'd replace that entire terminal end with a fresh one that has new hardware.

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

The battery clamps can become "stretched" over time. If the clamp is still loose on the post no matter how tight the nut is, I would replace the clamp.

I had to do this about 5 years ago or so....

I found these on . I'd use a regular nut and bolt before I'd buy them, though.

BULL

Hey Photon, So you've entered into a delicate (over dramatic from my part) situation and let me explain (apologies for the long post)

The OEM ground wire is about a 4awg internally in size, it's only one wire which on one end it has the carries the negative post terminal and on the other it uses a two hole ring terminal/lug.
On the G37 it uses an electronic load sensing device that tells the IPDM how much % the alternator should have.

Apart from the unavoidable post deterioration, you also have a ground wire with about 1/2 inch of exposed copper in a really acidic area which means it's only a matter of time until these elements enter the strands and start creating additional unwanted resistance.

Replacement can be tricky, Though a single hole ring terminal WILL work on the grounding side I still prefer the two hole method. These terminals are almost impossible to find and the ones online are for solid wire (could work though).

I started this endeavor with post deterioration and wanted to upgrade upon replacement and these were my issues.

When upgrading you'll need to create your own since the sensor needs to be passed through the wire which on itself can be difficult.

Heres a link to the closest I got to that bolt and nut however like @ILM-NC G37S mentioned, this new hardware might just be a bandaid since the terminal has stretched out.

Your best and least invasive is to cut that terminal and replace it with an universal one.

The other options will be a bit more difficult to achieve.

G37sPhoton

wow... thanks and Bull for the additional info... didnt think on the exposed section and the intricacies of just what all is done... i'll check on the bolt replacement and then contemplate a full on replacement... though the problem i see is if i trim the wire for a universal set up, i wont have enough to reach the terminal... so not sure thats an option...but again... damn... nothing is simple anymore?😂

G37sPhoton

thank you sir! i saw this one and wasnt sure on the fit , but ordered and then will determine on next steps per @BULL recommendation

BULL

It will be tight but it will reach, pay attention to the type of terminal that you buy before hand.

Prior to purchase, pull on that wire from the mounting surface towards the battery, this will straighten the wire a bit and give you as much lenght as it can. The wire is about 1 foot long.

These are two examples of cables I've made. The reason why the cable is 1 foot long is so the battery doesnt have to be disconnected if diagnosing any of the modules in that area but it doesnt necessarily need to be that long.

The one with the copper terminal is a home made terminal going into a Z

BULL

On another note, one thing you'll notice is that the Z doesnt have an ELD sensor and it's because many dont come with one. Only the Roadster is noted as the only Z with one.

A personal opinion: Having a voltage gauge that variates between 12.7-14.5 would send more folks to the dealer thinking there's something wrong with the car when the "old school" mentality is that it should always be a 14v + with vehicle on.