AWG

Bought stock 2011 g37x at 100k rear end was a bit squirrely but not problematic did alignment and left with total rear toe barely within range.
fast forward to 2022 as my tread has decreased the car has gotten increasingly squirrely to the point of throwing my rear end out on ice patches and wet roads. Brought my car in twice within 2 months time with different toe results, (never hit any thing not even a pothole big enough to cause such differences) last alignment was told that my rear tie adjustment was maxed out and that was the best they could do. Before I go throwing a set of new tires on that might get chewed up faster due to total toe, any ideas on the problem here? Thanks and any help would be greatly appreciated.

2019 alignment

2022 first alignment

2022 final alignment

2.2Lude

iTrader: (1)

That’s a crap ton of rear toe-in(positive)
A little bit of rear toe-in for these cars will help stabilize the rear but I’m talking .04-.08 degrees total rear toe-in. Not .4 degrees. 0 rear works well too.

I have to assume the alignment tech is saying he’s maxed out the toe-in adjustment.
Why that’s an issue for him I have no idea since he needs toe-out(negative) adjustment to get to 0.

Have the tech set your rear toe to absolute 0 and it should solve your issues.

Edit: Just re-read and saw you have a AWD G. I don’t have any experience with the suspension on the AWD models so Im not 100% sure my suggestion will work for you.

With that said I don’t see why at stock height the rear toe adjustment would be maxed out .2(ish per side and unable to get your car to 0. If that truly is the case then a set of SPC rear toe bolts should get you the adjustment back.

https://conceptzperformance.com/spc-performance-rear-toe-camber-bolt-kit-nissan-370z-infiniti-g37-72265_p_4294.php

AWG

Before I buy that set I will see if those bolts are indeed fully adjusted to the max somehow, and if not take it back in one more time (good thing for lifetime alignment) bad thing is that the only close wheel alignment shops are firestone and tiresplus near me.
But looking at the actual SDS for the 2011 sedan it shows toe in at .12° recommended for each side. Thanks again for the info as I had assumed wrongly that positive toe was toed out instead of in as it should be.

2.2Lude

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a smart plan. Here is a video for reference on how the toe bolts adjustment will affect toe, starts at 4:00 min mark:

AWG

Thanks, completely forgot that the huge resource of youtube and Google existed for a moment there, that should help quite a bit.

2.2Lude

iTrader: (1)

Good luck solving it. I really do believe the rear toe issue will fix your problems as I went through something similar but for my RWD sedan.

On track with .12 degrees toe-in each side my car was crazy loose on track. Dialing that back with toe bolts to .02 degrees toe-in each side solved my issues. The car was soo much more composed at the limit. Again RWD vs AWD but

AWG

Thanks again, this has been bothering me to no end, to the point that I was suspecting other suspension components due to the alignment sheet specs being technically in the green

BULL

You will still go through the issue everyone goes through. The rear toe on these cars significantly affect camber.
Many times the tech will try to aim towards better toe making camber off and vice versa.

You're still in the green however you want to be in the middle for your rear specs.
I suspect that squirrely feeling, I've had before and I can only attribute it to alignment specs barely in green and back shocks.
As the shock bounds it sends that side out of spec (since it was close to already) and changes the angle of the suspension only to return to normal once it rebounds.

You may want to invest in aftermarket rear toe bolts and camber arms. You'll need them either way. This way there is no excuses.

AWG

I was thinking in general that camber gets dialed in first and toe after, because camber affects toe but not vice versa (when it comes to adjustment).
Edit: And if I have to sacrifice a bit of camber to get decent handling back (and probably replace both camber toe arms/links), then that will have to be it.