Like many who have reported the 500 RPM idle when specifically in drive, I finally had mine fixed. Ever since I got my G it idled in drive at 500 RPM when stopped. Very rarely it would idle at the correct 650 RPM +/- 50. Though the FSM does not even state a specific RPM for idle in drive or reverse, probably as there are too many variables that would effect it. I would get these annoying vibrations when stopped in drive. After doing a lot of looking around for what might be the fix, it's boosting the idle with a diagnostic tool with the capability to save RPM changes to the ECU. I had the throttle bodies cleaned, new OEM TB gaskets installed, bolts torqued to spec (75 In-lbs, in the correct sequence). My throttle bodies were fairly clean thanks to the Mishimoto G37 catch can kit. Had the proper idle relearn done (first: accelerator pedal released position learning > throttle valve closed position learning > Idle air volume learning). After that my idle did not change much, so the idle was boosted via Nissan Data Scan 3. Laptop I used had windows 10 and VAG-K+CAN communication cable. Idle was boosted by 125 RPM and the cars idle now is rock solid.

I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR ISSUES CAUSED BY IMPROPER USE OR USER ERROR.

Without NDS you could use another diagnostic device to do the idle RPM adjustment, though the only ones I know of that; PERMANENTLY (until adjusted or removed) saves your changes to the ECU are: Nissan Consult of course, X-431, and the AutoEnginuity EI06. I am sure there are more out there with this capability.

Z1 has the "Elite" scan tool by Foxwell which is a NT510 (NT530) loaded with Nissan functions. It says on the box it can do idle RPM adjustment, but Z1 says it's not saved to the ECU, though it seems they don't even know what it can do. A person on the Juke forum said it corrected their idle and it was permanent apparently.

The cable I got is: and it came with instructions for setting up the drivers correctly.

In the NDS software you need to set the communication port for the cable to what Windows assigns it. You need to go to device manager and see what it set it too. For my laptop it assigned it "COM4", so in NDS I changed it to that. As for the cable you need to download the correct drivers for it to work correctly.

The IVAL needs to be always done before doing any idle RPM adjustment. Once that is done, the idle RPM adjustment can be done. Of course the car will need to be at a certain temperature range to complete it, NDS will display this specific temperature range the car needs to be in to save successfully. If the idle relearn needs to be done again in the future, you need to remove the idle RPM adjustment you did prior which is saved to the ECU.

Images of great idle in drive now:





Reverse as well:




Hope this helps someone out there.

 

Very interesting. Since I've recently run across some annoying issues on my G37 I've ordered up a cable and will get the NDS3 software.

I assume you are using the NDS3 for PC? It looks like the Android software is very limited...

 

Yes, I got NDS3 on my laptop. The Android version won't be able to do any of this unfortunately. It is very important to get the drivers for the cable setup and assign it the correct COM name in NDS otherwise it won't communicate.

And for context, I had this issue since I was the owner. Even after the gallery gasket overhaul which I had new ignition coils and spark plugs put in, it had the same idle. This included a throttle body cleaning as well with new gaskets. I noticed a lot of times people say replace the spark plugs etc. Best to first do the proper throttle body cleaning, using new throttle body gaskets which the FSM calls for, and performing the proper idle relearn procedure. Instead of replacing expensive OEM parts that might not need to be replaced. Then testing and seeing what the idle is before doing an idle RPM adjustment.

On a side note, at the mileage I am at in my photos, I had the passenger side heater hose fitting replaced as some maintenance. I did not have any leaks or issues but figured it was a good time to replace. This is one of those ticking time bombs on these cars. My original one fell apart as it was being removed. As others have state, replacing it at 100K miles is a good practice I would say for preventative maintenance. I only had the fitting and clamps replaced, the OEM rubber hoses are quality and last a long time. The fitting for me was: 92417-JK20A according to my VIN.

Here is the video how to adjust the idle in NDS3:

 

This is really interesting. I'm curious to see what parameters does the ECM need to see to perform an idle relearn.

So far many of the parameters I've seen are inputs to the IPDM. I would be interested to see if idle can be adjusted this way without the IPDM.

 

Few things I know about the proper relearn is vehicle needs to meet a few parameters such as battery voltage, coolant temp, etc. I believe there are complete lists online for all the parameters the vehicle must meet before the IVAL is done, so it can complete successfully.

 

How's your car been since making this change? I'm going to try to do mine this week. I feel like I've changed every damn sensor in the engine.

 

It's been excellent, unfortunately these cars are finicky. I would just double check the throttle bodies, MAF are clean with proper relearn procedure and that there is no leaks etc before adjusting the idle permanently.

 

Man, just went ahead and upped it 125 and went for a test drive…. My goodness this is like an entire different car now. Didn’t drop below 650ish at all and was very stable. Can’t believe I spent all that damn money on throttle bodies/maf sensors/pcv valves and all I had to do was this. The data scan software is pretty dope so I’ll probably keep it for other diag issues I may have. Thanks for this thread bro.

 

That is great to hear! The dealers as always seem unwilling to help with this issue, and few seem to want to boost the idle. Most shops don't know what to do with this issue.

Sorry to hear you had to replace so many things to no avail. I have been there myself and it is frustrating.

Yes NDS 3 is a great piece of software and for the price it is hard to pass off. I did find it struggles with giving correct part numbers for some of the modules on the car, but that is minor.

Of course!