2013 G37xS - Interior lights just stopped working
#18
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
ASIDE FROM THE LIGHTING, ARE THERE ANY OTHER ISSUES WITH THE CAR?
That broken red wire is for connector M119, pin #11 at the BCM. This supplies 12V+ (constant/fused) to the BCM. I would suggest you clean everything up and repair that broken wire. From there, button everything back up and see if the problems are solved. I am willing to bet that if you took a jumper from that wire to the pin, your interior lights will work.
The BCM is a tough little module. It takes a lot to "break" it. It can happen, but is rare. If, after you complete the above, the issue persists, then you will have to look into replacing the module. To answer your question: yes, the BCM is specific to the car (coupe/sedan/'vert) and WILL REQUIRE PROGRAMMING for the iKey, security, TPMS, and some other functions. You are not here yet.
#19
Yes, my plan is to fix the broken wire & see if my interior lights work.
I also plan on inspecting and blowing out the sunroof drains as well as check for other leaks around the cowl area.
I am hoping that I don't have to replace the BCM - Fingers X.
Any help / suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
I also plan on inspecting and blowing out the sunroof drains as well as check for other leaks around the cowl area.
I am hoping that I don't have to replace the BCM - Fingers X.
Any help / suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
#21
All the interior lights are working now - M119 that supplies 12v that was broken was the culprit.
Does any know what tool is required to remove these pins?
I am now going to investigate the leaks...
Any help / suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Does any know what tool is required to remove these pins?
I am now going to investigate the leaks...
Any help / suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
#22
Registered Member
iTrader: (8)
wow, you got lucky that your BCM did not die. The pins are pretty hard to remove but with a very small / thin metal piece you can release them.
For the sunroof drain, I got a coupler and extended the drain down into the AC drain location, bypassing the stupid firewall drain. no issues since.
For the sunroof drain, I got a coupler and extended the drain down into the AC drain location, bypassing the stupid firewall drain. no issues since.
#23
Registered Member
#24
Registered Member
iTrader: (8)
Don't even need to go in the engine bay. Take off A pillar trim, take off the side dash plastic trim and you have enough space to get your hands in there and put the coupler on.
oh, you do have to pull back the carpet to get access to the ac drain but it's like 4 clips.
oh, you do have to pull back the carpet to get access to the ac drain but it's like 4 clips.
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Selym (06-30-2022)
#26
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Do not waste your money on the extraction tool. All you need is a small, metal "pick" to press the locking tab. I use a old jewelers screwdriver. Tomorrow, I will post pics for how to release the terminals from the connector. It is not hard, but can get VERY aggravating.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 07-02-2022 at 01:06 PM.
#27
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Here is the official publication from Nissan TechInfo on the different connectors and how to unlock the retainers and remove the pins/ terminals (using their ridiculously overpriced "extraction tools").
The M119 connector is a NS-16FW-CS (NS Family, 16-pin, Female terminal, White housing). The following shows how I remove the terminals/ pins using a small jewelers screwdriver. Any HARD METAL "pick" will suffice.
THIS PROCEDURE WILL ONLY WORK ON THE NS FAMILY OF CONNECTORS. DO NOT TRY THE SAME PROCEDURE ON DIFFERENT CONNECTOR TYPES. YOU WILL F*** IT UP!
IMPORTANT! Note the orientation of the terminal as you remove it to ensure you are inserting it correctly upon reassembly. You should feel a solid "click" as the terminal gets locked into place. Any resistance, STOP! and check orientation. This is not one of those "if it don't fit, force it" moments. Your partner might be forgiving, these terminals/ pins are not.
Patience is key and with the limited space to work, it will get frustrating, fast. The good news is this connector is the easiest to de-pin.
As with any guide, you assume all risk for working on your own car.
The M119 connector is a NS-16FW-CS (NS Family, 16-pin, Female terminal, White housing). The following shows how I remove the terminals/ pins using a small jewelers screwdriver. Any HARD METAL "pick" will suffice.
THIS PROCEDURE WILL ONLY WORK ON THE NS FAMILY OF CONNECTORS. DO NOT TRY THE SAME PROCEDURE ON DIFFERENT CONNECTOR TYPES. YOU WILL F*** IT UP!
IMPORTANT! Note the orientation of the terminal as you remove it to ensure you are inserting it correctly upon reassembly. You should feel a solid "click" as the terminal gets locked into place. Any resistance, STOP! and check orientation. This is not one of those "if it don't fit, force it" moments. Your partner might be forgiving, these terminals/ pins are not.
Patience is key and with the limited space to work, it will get frustrating, fast. The good news is this connector is the easiest to de-pin.
As with any guide, you assume all risk for working on your own car.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 07-02-2022 at 01:08 PM.
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flipmode007 (01-30-2024)
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