Questions about built transmissions and built differential
06-01-2022, 08:50 AM
#16
Moderador
OPs only real “requirement” was running low 11s or high 10s in one of those 3 platforms.
“$3k easily push 460whp/500ft lbs. running 11.4s-11.7s for another $3.5k push 500whp/540ft lbs and run 11.1-11.4s all day on a street tire.”
that $3k includes a HX. You won’t heat soak after just 1 pull. And you can always add a WMI setup for easily under $500. My setup could do 10 back to back 40-90 pulls in under 30second intervals with zero heat soak. 3 consecutive 60-130s didn’t phase it either.
all those above are easy DIY. Turbos are challenging as you need to drop the engine so add at least $1500 for install of those, but those aren’t needed unless you are hunting mid to low 10s.
but stock turbos can still run very low 11s, IIRC one individual has run 10.9s on stock turbo.
that $10k G is going to have well over 100k+ miles in which case a Q of the same condition/mileage isn’t much more expensive. Got to compare equivalent cars. IE condition, mileage, etc…
OP stated automatic - auto G37s aren’t holding 550whp for long without upgrading flexplate and a built trans or VR30 trans swap, which adds to the cost/complexity.’ And even then low 11s isn’t a stretch but will be tough. Much easier and cheaper to make a Q50 go low 11s then a G. The G will have the edge on the back half / hwy pulls. But 60ft / 1/8 mile the Q getting too far ahead for the G to catch in the 1/4th. Highly dependent on a million variables and specific setups obviously. But if goal is specifically low 11s in the 1/4 mile between those 3 vehicles, the Q is much easier and cheaper platform to reliably and consistently do it on.
This isn’t me hating on the G or a SC G, i had a full build Q50 and switched to a G for the soul reason/purpose of topgunz SC kit. But I’m aware of the challenges and expectations first hand of both platforms/setups. The G is a better roller/hwy puller. and revving out to almost 8k and being rewarded for it is magical. The Q is better on the strip especially at the price and ease of doing so.
“$3k easily push 460whp/500ft lbs. running 11.4s-11.7s for another $3.5k push 500whp/540ft lbs and run 11.1-11.4s all day on a street tire.”
that $3k includes a HX. You won’t heat soak after just 1 pull. And you can always add a WMI setup for easily under $500. My setup could do 10 back to back 40-90 pulls in under 30second intervals with zero heat soak. 3 consecutive 60-130s didn’t phase it either.
all those above are easy DIY. Turbos are challenging as you need to drop the engine so add at least $1500 for install of those, but those aren’t needed unless you are hunting mid to low 10s.
but stock turbos can still run very low 11s, IIRC one individual has run 10.9s on stock turbo.
that $10k G is going to have well over 100k+ miles in which case a Q of the same condition/mileage isn’t much more expensive. Got to compare equivalent cars. IE condition, mileage, etc…
OP stated automatic - auto G37s aren’t holding 550whp for long without upgrading flexplate and a built trans or VR30 trans swap, which adds to the cost/complexity.’ And even then low 11s isn’t a stretch but will be tough. Much easier and cheaper to make a Q50 go low 11s then a G. The G will have the edge on the back half / hwy pulls. But 60ft / 1/8 mile the Q getting too far ahead for the G to catch in the 1/4th. Highly dependent on a million variables and specific setups obviously. But if goal is specifically low 11s in the 1/4 mile between those 3 vehicles, the Q is much easier and cheaper platform to reliably and consistently do it on.
This isn’t me hating on the G or a SC G, i had a full build Q50 and switched to a G for the soul reason/purpose of topgunz SC kit. But I’m aware of the challenges and expectations first hand of both platforms/setups. The G is a better roller/hwy puller. and revving out to almost 8k and being rewarded for it is magical. The Q is better on the strip especially at the price and ease of doing so.
How much do you think a C6 that isn’t clapped out costs, and then costs to make it run 10s? No NA, non FI, non nos, no heads/cams is running 10s on an ls2/3 unless maybe serious weight reduction. And to hookup the power to run a 10s needs some suspension work for weight transfer and a serious tire. Good luck on the street. Definitely a great platform if setup right though.
go look at dragy leaderboards, or join the FB groups.
so many Qs running 11.0-11.3s on stock turbos with just FBO, fueling mods for E85 and racebox tunes, a few have broken 10.9s on stock turbos.
compare same condition/mileage C6 to a Q. Q is cheaper.
compare price of mods for C6 to run 11.0s vs Q, Q is cheaper.
CAI or tubes and drop ins, downpipes, Y-pipe, Heat exchanger. Ranges $1500-2500, then add a tune. Gets you sohos dyno you posted for mid 11s.
LPFP, HPFP, Injectors, flex fuel is optional but recommended, for about $3,500. Can now run E85 and gets you 11.0s. Assuming AWD, RWD needs some work to hookup.
Are you building a dedicated drag car? Or what is your goal/purposes specifically?
go look at dragy leaderboards, or join the FB groups.
so many Qs running 11.0-11.3s on stock turbos with just FBO, fueling mods for E85 and racebox tunes, a few have broken 10.9s on stock turbos.
compare same condition/mileage C6 to a Q. Q is cheaper.
compare price of mods for C6 to run 11.0s vs Q, Q is cheaper.
CAI or tubes and drop ins, downpipes, Y-pipe, Heat exchanger. Ranges $1500-2500, then add a tune. Gets you sohos dyno you posted for mid 11s.
LPFP, HPFP, Injectors, flex fuel is optional but recommended, for about $3,500. Can now run E85 and gets you 11.0s. Assuming AWD, RWD needs some work to hookup.
Are you building a dedicated drag car? Or what is your goal/purposes specifically?
We've had a few come in for oil burn and soot in the back, many of them we were able to get infiniti to replace them. Certain social media groups will show more or less, I've seen some folks in Instagram with unbeknown turbo failure then next posts "we upgrading turbos" I'm a firm believer that maintenance and previous life will be the denominating factor for reliability in these cars and with such a quick spool it's almost a crime not to see full boost at least once a day or 24/7. I live in the city and certain types of people that get these cars refuse to do maintain something.
The VHR on the other hand being it a more simple engine as long as Gallery safety was done it's pretty hard to kill them however for to even come close to utilizing that power it will need a VR trans.
A 160k G with a dead transmission would not be so hard to find and would be the perfect canvas, it can even be had for less than $6k.
I think the corvette is falling behind.
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Jaws2003 (06-01-2022)
06-01-2022, 08:57 AM
#17
2. For the G37 I did want the air to air supercharger kit from Soho with exhaust, 3.69 gears, and and a stall converter and a trans that can take that type of power. I don't have e85 where I live. I would have to go to Orlando, FL which is 250 miles to get that. Here's another build that I liked that was on the G37. The second link will be on a 370z but turbo. I like the supporting mods list and I would only change it to a supercharger on pump gas. G37 link: https://youtu.be/QCqedhzN84k
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If you don't have Ethanol then run WMI with a failsafe. Get about half the octane benefits with twice the cooling benefits. Pretty easy/cheap to setup and integrate into the tune to push things higher safely.
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Jaws2003 (06-01-2022)
06-01-2022, 07:18 PM
#18
Registered Member
Thread Starter
How much do you think a C6 that isn’t clapped out costs, and then costs to make it run 10s? No NA, non FI, non nos, no heads/cams is running 10s on an ls2/3 unless maybe serious weight reduction. And to hookup the power to run a 10s needs some suspension work for weight transfer and a serious tire. Good luck on the street. Definitely a great platform if setup right though.
go look at dragy leaderboards, or join the FB groups.
so many Qs running 11.0-11.3s on stock turbos with just FBO, fueling mods for E85 and racebox tunes, a few have broken 10.9s on stock turbos.
compare same condition/mileage C6 to a Q. Q is cheaper.
compare price of mods for C6 to run 11.0s vs Q, Q is cheaper.
CAI or tubes and drop ins, downpipes, Y-pipe, Heat exchanger. Ranges $1500-2500, then add a tune. Gets you sohos dyno you posted for mid 11s.
LPFP, HPFP, Injectors, flex fuel is optional but recommended, for about $3,500. Can now run E85 and gets you 11.0s. Assuming AWD, RWD needs some work to hookup.
Are you building a dedicated drag car? Or what is your goal/purposes specifically?
go look at dragy leaderboards, or join the FB groups.
so many Qs running 11.0-11.3s on stock turbos with just FBO, fueling mods for E85 and racebox tunes, a few have broken 10.9s on stock turbos.
compare same condition/mileage C6 to a Q. Q is cheaper.
compare price of mods for C6 to run 11.0s vs Q, Q is cheaper.
CAI or tubes and drop ins, downpipes, Y-pipe, Heat exchanger. Ranges $1500-2500, then add a tune. Gets you sohos dyno you posted for mid 11s.
LPFP, HPFP, Injectors, flex fuel is optional but recommended, for about $3,500. Can now run E85 and gets you 11.0s. Assuming AWD, RWD needs some work to hookup.
Are you building a dedicated drag car? Or what is your goal/purposes specifically?
06-01-2022, 07:23 PM
#19
Registered Member
Thread Starter
You're right, if that is the goal a Q can get there faster (time frame) and can hang in there. Turbos failure is a bit more than what's documented, I live next to 3 main south FL infiniti dealers.
We've had a few come in for oil burn and soot in the back, many of them we were able to get infiniti to replace them. Certain social media groups will show more or less, I've seen some folks in Instagram with unbeknown turbo failure then next posts "we upgrading turbos" I'm a firm believer that maintenance and previous life will be the denominating factor for reliability in these cars and with such a quick spool it's almost a crime not to see full boost at least once a day or 24/7. I live in the city and certain types of people that get these cars refuse to do maintain something.
The VHR on the other hand being it a more simple engine as long as Gallery safety was done it's pretty hard to kill them however for to even come close to utilizing that power it will need a VR trans.
A 160k G with a dead transmission would not be so hard to find and would be the perfect canvas, it can even be had for less than $6k.
I think the corvette is falling behind.
We've had a few come in for oil burn and soot in the back, many of them we were able to get infiniti to replace them. Certain social media groups will show more or less, I've seen some folks in Instagram with unbeknown turbo failure then next posts "we upgrading turbos" I'm a firm believer that maintenance and previous life will be the denominating factor for reliability in these cars and with such a quick spool it's almost a crime not to see full boost at least once a day or 24/7. I live in the city and certain types of people that get these cars refuse to do maintain something.
The VHR on the other hand being it a more simple engine as long as Gallery safety was done it's pretty hard to kill them however for to even come close to utilizing that power it will need a VR trans.
A 160k G with a dead transmission would not be so hard to find and would be the perfect canvas, it can even be had for less than $6k.
I think the corvette is falling behind.
06-01-2022, 07:46 PM
#20
Several tutorials, at least 4 or 5 full length swaps i know of on youtube.
a 3-4yr old 30-40k mile Q is very cheap and easy to come by, often only 1 owner, fresh off lease with a full lengthy service history record on file.
also several different people running 10.6Xs on stock turbos now. Hadn’t checked in a minute, but was looking more today. At least 10-15 other known Qs in the 10s on stock turbos as well.
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Jaws2003 (06-10-2022)
06-01-2022, 09:05 PM
#21
Of the cars mentioned the C6 is obviously the coolest with by far the highest ceiling. However to get a relatively clean lowish mileage C6 is pricy and what you’d have to put into it to runs consistent 10s is a lot, you’d almost be better off shooting for 9s at that point to make it worthwhile. And hooking up a 10s C6 on the street is tough. The C6 will be the best purpose built track/strip car in the end though with the investment And does have that timeless nostalgia to it. But you are looking at 15+ year old car at the end of the day. If you plan on doing a good chunk of street / daily driving I would probably pass. If you have a DD already and it’ll spend a good chunk of its time on the strip/track it might be the best option in the end.
Now to the G/Q. Either option I would highly recommend AWD will make life and running low 11s or high 10s a lot easier and cheaper, and you’ll actually have traction on the street.
The Q can run 11.0s for the cheapest when looking at comparable mileage and trim levels. Is the newest and nicest car of the 3. Turbo failures although much higher then they should be, you still have substantially better odds of not having a failure then you have of having a failure and performance mods don’t seem to be a contributing factor to them failing either. But if they do fail budget another $6k on top of your 11.0 $7k setup and you now have a 650whp setup running low to mid 10s all day. If you want a very nice daily and/or will spend a good mix on street/strip the Q is probably the option.
the G at a comparable mileage and trim level will probably be about 15-20% cheaper on initial purchase compared to the Q which puts say $3-4k in your pocket for more mods. But the problem with the G especially a supercharged auto is slow 60ft. However the G is possibly cheaper/easier to build a solid roller / hwy puller. You get that back half top end street pull power. but 60ft is crucial in 1/4 mile and the G won’t compete with the Q in 60ft. If you will spend most of your time on the street and only occasionally the strip the G is the option. I would also probably take the G for a track (road course) setup over the Q.
each of the 3 options can be the best option depending on your specific goals.
Now to the G/Q. Either option I would highly recommend AWD will make life and running low 11s or high 10s a lot easier and cheaper, and you’ll actually have traction on the street.
The Q can run 11.0s for the cheapest when looking at comparable mileage and trim levels. Is the newest and nicest car of the 3. Turbo failures although much higher then they should be, you still have substantially better odds of not having a failure then you have of having a failure and performance mods don’t seem to be a contributing factor to them failing either. But if they do fail budget another $6k on top of your 11.0 $7k setup and you now have a 650whp setup running low to mid 10s all day. If you want a very nice daily and/or will spend a good mix on street/strip the Q is probably the option.
the G at a comparable mileage and trim level will probably be about 15-20% cheaper on initial purchase compared to the Q which puts say $3-4k in your pocket for more mods. But the problem with the G especially a supercharged auto is slow 60ft. However the G is possibly cheaper/easier to build a solid roller / hwy puller. You get that back half top end street pull power. but 60ft is crucial in 1/4 mile and the G won’t compete with the Q in 60ft. If you will spend most of your time on the street and only occasionally the strip the G is the option. I would also probably take the G for a track (road course) setup over the Q.
each of the 3 options can be the best option depending on your specific goals.
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Jaws2003 (06-01-2022)
06-01-2022, 09:40 PM
#22
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Throwing a wildcard into the mix. If you are just looking to go fast, and go fast now, a gen 2 Coyote would just need boost and a tire. Coyote is good for 800-900whp, 6r80 for 800wtq (build nothing). Pump gas with 9-10 PSI will net you 650+whp and be a low 11 - mid 10 second car pending driver mod. If E85 is available, it's a matter of pulleying down and you're at 800+whp.
Mustang: 25-27k w/ 80k or fewer miles
Centri blower: 5-6k
Tune: 1k
Rim and tire set-up: $1500
Total: 32,500 - 35,000
Mustang: 25-27k w/ 80k or fewer miles
Centri blower: 5-6k
Tune: 1k
Rim and tire set-up: $1500
Total: 32,500 - 35,000
06-01-2022, 10:26 PM
#23
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Of the cars mentioned the C6 is obviously the coolest with by far the highest ceiling. However to get a relatively clean lowish mileage C6 is pricy and what you’d have to put into it to runs consistent 10s is a lot, you’d almost be better off shooting for 9s at that point to make it worthwhile. And hooking up a 10s C6 on the street is tough. The C6 will be the best purpose built track/strip car in the end though with the investment And does have that timeless nostalgia to it. But you are looking at 15+ year old car at the end of the day. If you plan on doing a good chunk of street / daily driving I would probably pass. If you have a DD already and it’ll spend a good chunk of its time on the strip/track it might be the best option in the end.
Now to the G/Q. Either option I would highly recommend AWD will make life and running low 11s or high 10s a lot easier and cheaper, and you’ll actually have traction on the street.
The Q can run 11.0s for the cheapest when looking at comparable mileage and trim levels. Is the newest and nicest car of the 3. Turbo failures although much higher then they should be, you still have substantially better odds of not having a failure then you have of having a failure and performance mods don’t seem to be a contributing factor to them failing either. But if they do fail budget another $6k on top of your 11.0 $7k setup and you now have a 650whp setup running low to mid 10s all day. If you want a very nice daily and/or will spend a good mix on street/strip the Q is probably the option.
the G at a comparable mileage and trim level will probably be about 15-20% cheaper on initial purchase compared to the Q which puts say $3-4k in your pocket for more mods. But the problem with the G especially a supercharged auto is slow 60ft. However the G is possibly cheaper/easier to build a solid roller / hwy puller. You get that back half top end street pull power. but 60ft is crucial in 1/4 mile and the G won’t compete with the Q in 60ft. If you will spend most of your time on the street and only occasionally the strip the G is the option. I would also probably take the G for a track (road course) setup over the Q.
each of the 3 options can be the best option depending on your specific goals.
Now to the G/Q. Either option I would highly recommend AWD will make life and running low 11s or high 10s a lot easier and cheaper, and you’ll actually have traction on the street.
The Q can run 11.0s for the cheapest when looking at comparable mileage and trim levels. Is the newest and nicest car of the 3. Turbo failures although much higher then they should be, you still have substantially better odds of not having a failure then you have of having a failure and performance mods don’t seem to be a contributing factor to them failing either. But if they do fail budget another $6k on top of your 11.0 $7k setup and you now have a 650whp setup running low to mid 10s all day. If you want a very nice daily and/or will spend a good mix on street/strip the Q is probably the option.
the G at a comparable mileage and trim level will probably be about 15-20% cheaper on initial purchase compared to the Q which puts say $3-4k in your pocket for more mods. But the problem with the G especially a supercharged auto is slow 60ft. However the G is possibly cheaper/easier to build a solid roller / hwy puller. You get that back half top end street pull power. but 60ft is crucial in 1/4 mile and the G won’t compete with the Q in 60ft. If you will spend most of your time on the street and only occasionally the strip the G is the option. I would also probably take the G for a track (road course) setup over the Q.
each of the 3 options can be the best option depending on your specific goals.
06-01-2022, 10:41 PM
#24
Thanks for the breakdown of the three cars. This raises a couple of questions about the 60ft and quarter mile times on the Q and G. Wouldn't a higher stall converter help with the 60ft times? Also is it possible to upgrade the AWD differentials to say a 3.69 ratio? I believe those would help the 60ft and total quarter mile times.
yes, you can change gearing in the awd but you need to swap gear in both diffs. Front diff needs to drop subframe to get to though so it ain’t easy diy or cheap to pay.
However with a 3.69 and stock tire diameter fourth only goes to 115, meaning you’ll need 5th for a 1/4 pass and actually potentially be slower. The 3.35 lets you run 126 in 4th which is perfect for trapping around 121-126 in low 10.9-11.3s.
With a slightly higher limiter and slightly taller tire you can easily stretch 4th to 130 for future mid 10s.
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Jaws2003 (06-08-2022)
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Jaws2003 (06-08-2022)
06-08-2022, 12:30 AM
#26
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