The how much is my Sedan worth discussion thread
#16
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Pre- vs post-pandemic... that's a good point. Whatever was once normal, tack on 20% give or take.
I think your guesses are good, ngolbuff. But the mileage... so many miles.
I think your guesses are good, ngolbuff. But the mileage... so many miles.
#17
1st off, GREAT thread idea @Rochester.
As my sig notes, I have lots of ideas for mods, but the personal time/money side is what holds me back. That being said, it has allowed me to slowly build my car to my liking while staying what I see as, subtle stock.
2013 G37x 150k miles bought from member in Ohio in Jan/2017 w/85k miles on it then for $16k.
-4DRZ's custom drilled out mitsubishi wheels from his G37 (they became my summer wheels, they were his winter)
-RSB from a coupe member on here to switch out the pencil thin OEM.
-4DSC stickers (these add at least 10hp each).
-50% tint all the way around (yes windshield too, no it doesn't affect sight at night)
-F.I. RHFC bought from a member on here.
-LED inside lights from member
-Diode Dynamics taillights plug (so underrated)
-Brand new matching 5k fogs/headlight bulbs.
-Bell Raceworks rear diff brace
-Washed weekly at least (still not as clean as 2,.2 lude's)
-(Ark Grip exhaust coming down the pipeline soon)
Not that I would ever let mine go now (especially after buying an exhaust for it), but I have a couple numbers in mind for potential sells.
BC (before Covid)- $12k maybe?
AC (after Covid w/current high prices)- $14k AT LEAST.
**Would consider trade+cash for same/newer M56x/M37x/newer models of those
(before tint)
As my sig notes, I have lots of ideas for mods, but the personal time/money side is what holds me back. That being said, it has allowed me to slowly build my car to my liking while staying what I see as, subtle stock.
2013 G37x 150k miles bought from member in Ohio in Jan/2017 w/85k miles on it then for $16k.
-4DRZ's custom drilled out mitsubishi wheels from his G37 (they became my summer wheels, they were his winter)
-RSB from a coupe member on here to switch out the pencil thin OEM.
-4DSC stickers (these add at least 10hp each).
-50% tint all the way around (yes windshield too, no it doesn't affect sight at night)
-F.I. RHFC bought from a member on here.
-LED inside lights from member
-Diode Dynamics taillights plug (so underrated)
-Brand new matching 5k fogs/headlight bulbs.
-Bell Raceworks rear diff brace
-Washed weekly at least (still not as clean as 2,.2 lude's)
-(Ark Grip exhaust coming down the pipeline soon)
Not that I would ever let mine go now (especially after buying an exhaust for it), but I have a couple numbers in mind for potential sells.
BC (before Covid)- $12k maybe?
AC (after Covid w/current high prices)- $14k AT LEAST.
**Would consider trade+cash for same/newer M56x/M37x/newer models of those
(before tint)
#18
Registered Member
The way I see it, I dont ever plan on getting an M. However, if something catastrophic happens, I feel I would enjoy the same base care that is a little more luxury side vs. sport luxury. On top of that, I can count on it being just as reliable as my G has been for years for me.
#19
Registered Member
Yep, miles are miles. It is my daily driver. I have no form of work from home. Since 2017, I have been driving the car to my job (60 miles round trip, 7 days bi-weekly). It adds up fast and the gas bill is not pretty right now, but it drives as nice as it did when I first got it and I havent fallen out of love with it. I still look back and admire in a parking lot
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rotarymike (02-06-2022)
#20
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
Alright let's give this a shot, car has 94k miles. Garage kept CA and AZ car(NO rust or corroded hardware), clean title, and fantastic condition inside and out with minor imperfections as expected for a car with 94k miles. I'm the second or third owner and bought the car with 84k miles March of 2020. Also have a spreadsheet with all the maintenance done to the car. Everything has been done within the last 10k miles plugs, all fluids, VC gaskets, PCV, etc. It was used for about 7 beginner and low intermediate HPDE events last year.
I'm sure I'm forgetting somethings but that should be the most relevant information.
I'm very open to selling as-is or returning the car to stock(have all the OEM pieces) then selling. Previously I've found the latter to bring in more $$ at the end of the day.
Suspension:
I'm sure I'm forgetting somethings but that should be the most relevant information.
I'm very open to selling as-is or returning the car to stock(have all the OEM pieces) then selling. Previously I've found the latter to bring in more $$ at the end of the day.
Suspension:
- G37 OEM staggered IPL wheels for street use
- Enkei PF01's 18x9.5 +35(with 10mm spacer) and 275/40/18 Pilot Super Sports for the track
- Z1 10mm spacer and extended studs all around
- Tanabe ComfortR Coilovers
- Eibach Front sway bar
- Kinetix Racing FUCA
- AFE drop in Filters
- ADD W1 Catch Cans
- Z1 Motorsports Setrab 34 row oil cooler with thermostatic plate and line covers
- GKTech 1.3 Bar radiator cap
- Redline D6 ATF in Power Steering
- Custom Coupe Mid-pipe/resonators
- Z1 Under-tray
- ECUTek tuner(not tuned yet)
- ZSpeed HD CSC and SS clutch line
- RJM Rev 3.3 Clutch Pedal
- Motul RBF600 Clutch Fluid
- TMW Short Shifter assembly
- Bell Raceworks diff brace
- DIY Poly filled diff bushing
- Redline MT-85 in Transmission
- Redline 75w90 in Differential
- "Custom heat treated" gold calipers from track use
- G-Loc GS-1 pads front/rear for Street use
- G-Loc R12 front/R10 rear for Track use
- Local autoparts store rotors
- Castrol SRF Fluid
- Bumperplugs.com front bumper licence plate plugs
- Diode Dynamic reverse and license plate LED's
- Diode Dynamics Turn in Tail module
- Nokya 3k H11 foglight bulbs - trimmed tab to fit for higher light output
- Ceramic Global 20% window tint
- Diode Dynamic full interior LED's
- GTR red start button
- GTR overhead lenses
- 255g white Mishimoto tear drop shift **** with 1" extension
- Broadway rear view mirror
Last edited by 2.2Lude; 02-07-2022 at 02:25 PM.
#21
Registered Member
Well I paid $36.5k for it new and KBB is saying private value is around $23k now, meaning roughly $1,500/yr for (almost) nine years. Not bad at all.
But as downright goofy as used car prices are right now, I’d still prob pass on selling for that much. Mainly for the fact that acceptable replacements just aren’t worth it to me. Sure a low-mileage B8.5 S4 would be pretty cool, but at this point in my life, to come out of pocket with more than a few bucks to drive a higher maintenance car is just not that compelling.
So guess I grossly overvalue my car…not a terrible thing
But as downright goofy as used car prices are right now, I’d still prob pass on selling for that much. Mainly for the fact that acceptable replacements just aren’t worth it to me. Sure a low-mileage B8.5 S4 would be pretty cool, but at this point in my life, to come out of pocket with more than a few bucks to drive a higher maintenance car is just not that compelling.
So guess I grossly overvalue my car…not a terrible thing
#22
Administrator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Years ago, I used to look at Edmunds and KBB often when getting an understanding of a car's value. Then I butted that information up against actual cars FS on sites like AutoTrader. Whatever you come up with, if you have a niche market car (like a modified 6MT ), you should probably look at what people are asking and getting here in the cars FS forum.
Curiously, Edmunds thinks my G is worth $14k at the high end of the scale. Figure I could pad that with another few thousand considering the mods and the low miles and the history here... again, assuming that has value to someone on the forum. It actually takes value away from the car on the open market.
FWIW, back in 2012, I paid $32K, as a used car less than one year old, with less than 4,000 miles.
Curiously, Edmunds thinks my G is worth $14k at the high end of the scale. Figure I could pad that with another few thousand considering the mods and the low miles and the history here... again, assuming that has value to someone on the forum. It actually takes value away from the car on the open market.
FWIW, back in 2012, I paid $32K, as a used car less than one year old, with less than 4,000 miles.
#23
Moderador
Years ago, I used to look at Edmunds and KBB often when getting an understanding of a car's value. Then I butted that information up against actual cars FS on sites like AutoTrader. Whatever you come up with, if you have a niche market car (like a modified 6MT ), you should probably look at what people are asking and getting here in the cars FS forum.
Curiously, Edmunds thinks my G is worth $14k at the high end of the scale. Figure I could pad that with another few thousand considering the mods and the low miles and the history here... again, assuming that has value to someone on the forum. It actually takes value away from the car on the open market.
FWIW, back in 2012, I paid $32K, as a used car less than one year old, with less than 4,000 miles.
Curiously, Edmunds thinks my G is worth $14k at the high end of the scale. Figure I could pad that with another few thousand considering the mods and the low miles and the history here... again, assuming that has value to someone on the forum. It actually takes value away from the car on the open market.
FWIW, back in 2012, I paid $32K, as a used car less than one year old, with less than 4,000 miles.
2nd owner, owned since new, mods, exceptional paint, etc.
I think is a matter of when you decide to post it then give it 2-3 months for the proper buyer. Now is the time, tons of folks will have some decent money in the next couple of weeks.
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ngolbuff (02-09-2022)
#24
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
These specs are the sticky details that can get you the money you want.
2nd owner, owned since new, mods, exceptional paint, etc.
I think is a matter of when you decide to post it then give it 2-3 months for the proper buyer. Now is the time, tons of folks will have some decent money in the next couple of weeks.
2nd owner, owned since new, mods, exceptional paint, etc.
I think is a matter of when you decide to post it then give it 2-3 months for the proper buyer. Now is the time, tons of folks will have some decent money in the next couple of weeks.
#25
This thread will be fun. I spent over a year looking for my car online, and I looked on every site you can imagine- These forums, craigslist in every city/state, FB marketplace, cars(dot)com, autotrader, cargurus, ebay etc
I'd check an easy 5 times day minimum, on average i'd probably check once every 90 minutes or so since these cars go quick. I even scrolled back through old listings dating back up to 5 years on these forums to have an idea of what I should be paying
It was my obsession for more than 365 days. I still look nowadays too Trust me when I say I know what these cars are worth with the caveat that my estimates are for pre-fall of 2021 (Prices went all over the place after summer ended, consistency in the prices these cars were being listed at went out the window) One of the craziest sales I saw back in the spring of 2021, 170k mile 6MT Sedan going for $12.5k. At the time, that was pretty insane. Nowadays I wouldn't be THAT surprised lol
I kinda developed a criteria for arrving at the price, depending on body style, transmission type, mileage, and year
Anyways, here's my input
Stock estimates:
2017-2019 price: $12.2k-$12.5k
2020-2021 Summer Prices: $14k-$15k
Now: Could probably squeeze out $17k
Estimates with your setup:
2017-2019 price: $15k-$16k
2020-2021 Summer Prices: $18k
Now: $20k-$21k
Edit: I'll be back with more input for the posts above
I'd check an easy 5 times day minimum, on average i'd probably check once every 90 minutes or so since these cars go quick. I even scrolled back through old listings dating back up to 5 years on these forums to have an idea of what I should be paying
It was my obsession for more than 365 days. I still look nowadays too Trust me when I say I know what these cars are worth with the caveat that my estimates are for pre-fall of 2021 (Prices went all over the place after summer ended, consistency in the prices these cars were being listed at went out the window) One of the craziest sales I saw back in the spring of 2021, 170k mile 6MT Sedan going for $12.5k. At the time, that was pretty insane. Nowadays I wouldn't be THAT surprised lol
I kinda developed a criteria for arrving at the price, depending on body style, transmission type, mileage, and year
Anyways, here's my input
Just paid my taxes, SC thinks my 2013 is worth $9800.
Opinions welcome (bear in mind, my car is NOT for sale) Thick skin engaged LOL.
2013 Sedan 6MT 77K miles
-All redline fluids except oil
-5K oil changes
-new HDCSC
light weight ZSpeed FW, Stage 2 ZSpeed clutch
All chrome vinyl wrapped
long tube CAI
Modded 350Z upper intake
Z1 dyno tuned
FI RHFC and catback
Hotchkis sways
Nismo red 370 springs
Koni yellow shocks
Coupe sport 19" wheels with Kumho PS91s 245/275
Tanabe FSTB
Other tweaks? Can't remember at this point.
Opinions welcome (bear in mind, my car is NOT for sale) Thick skin engaged LOL.
2013 Sedan 6MT 77K miles
-All redline fluids except oil
-5K oil changes
-new HDCSC
light weight ZSpeed FW, Stage 2 ZSpeed clutch
All chrome vinyl wrapped
long tube CAI
Modded 350Z upper intake
Z1 dyno tuned
FI RHFC and catback
Hotchkis sways
Nismo red 370 springs
Koni yellow shocks
Coupe sport 19" wheels with Kumho PS91s 245/275
Tanabe FSTB
Other tweaks? Can't remember at this point.
2017-2019 price: $12.2k-$12.5k
2020-2021 Summer Prices: $14k-$15k
Now: Could probably squeeze out $17k
Estimates with your setup:
2017-2019 price: $15k-$16k
2020-2021 Summer Prices: $18k
Now: $20k-$21k
Edit: I'll be back with more input for the posts above
Last edited by SwiftKit; 02-09-2022 at 08:32 PM.
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Rochester (02-10-2022)
#27
Registered Member
I think I could get 15k for my 2013 auto tragic with 125k on it.
Let's start the mods
BC Forged RS43 monoblocs 9.5 front and 10.5 rear
Michilen Pilot AS/4 (245 and 275 width)
DBA T4000 rotors all around
Carbo tech 1421 pads
Z1 high flow cats
Custom full stainless exhaust with vibrant connections and Borla XS mufflers
Z1 subframe/differential poly bushings
Z1 finner differential cover
Bell Raceworks Diff brace
Z1 long tube intakes
Mishimoto Dual Catch Cans
Fortune Auto 500 coil overs with 11k stock spring/10k 8" Swift springs rear
Voodoo FUCA's (ridiculously expensive imo)
Z1 rear camber and traction arms
Hotchkis sway bars
Z1 undershroud
All in all a well rounded fun car that I don't plan on ridding myself of.
Let's start the mods
BC Forged RS43 monoblocs 9.5 front and 10.5 rear
Michilen Pilot AS/4 (245 and 275 width)
DBA T4000 rotors all around
Carbo tech 1421 pads
Z1 high flow cats
Custom full stainless exhaust with vibrant connections and Borla XS mufflers
Z1 subframe/differential poly bushings
Z1 finner differential cover
Bell Raceworks Diff brace
Z1 long tube intakes
Mishimoto Dual Catch Cans
Fortune Auto 500 coil overs with 11k stock spring/10k 8" Swift springs rear
Voodoo FUCA's (ridiculously expensive imo)
Z1 rear camber and traction arms
Hotchkis sway bars
Z1 undershroud
All in all a well rounded fun car that I don't plan on ridding myself of.
#29
Registered Member
iTrader: (7)
I work in the auto industry and I can tell you guys that if you have ever considered selling your car- now is clearly the time if you can either find a new car to replace it with or if you have something else to drive. Trade in values are super inflated right now due to lack of inventory which is great if you own a car you want to sell, but not great if you want to replace it with another used car because those values are also high.
That being said, your car is truly only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. We all think our cars are worth a lot more than someone else does because we have put in all the work and we think our cars are perfect (most of us). For an eye opening experience, give your car a full detail by hand and you will notice all the little defects that you normally miss because you see the car every single day. You will start to see the little stone chips, small dents, scratches, maybe a scuff on a rim or something you have been ignoring. This will help you put your car in the right condition because most people think their car is in KBB "excellent" condition when it actually needs a few thousand dollars in reconditioning. Most cars fall under KBB "good condition" with the exception of maybe Rochester's car and my old G that we both detailed daily (hourly?) and kept stored under a climate controlled glass case in a museum when we weren't driving them. All kidding aside, KBB "good" condition is usually pretty accurate.
The good news is now that you have adjusted what you think your car's condition is, trade values are still crazy high. I just looked up KBB "good" for my old G and I swear it has gone up about $3,000 since this time last year. So hindsight is always 20/20 and had I know this would be the market now I would have waited to sell. However, I can live with that as I had a lot of fun with my Jeep Gladiator(s) off road and had I not sold it(them) when I did I would have never seen the crazy good STI Type RA unicorn that I picked up in October, so no regrets.
Another point I wanted to make was about modifications. I only modify my cars if the benefits outweigh the downside and I try to keep them subtle since styling mods are such a personal choice. If you go too far it becomes difficult to find someone with the same automotive tastes as you. I always figure if I can get back 1/4-1/2 the cost of the mods I come out ahead since I have enjoyed driving the car every single day I have had the modifications. A dealership will probably not give you much if anything extra for any modifications so you need to go private party if your car is significantly modified.
I was hoping to sell my G37S on Bring a Trailer, but even as nice as my car was and as heavily modified as it was they simply were not doing G37S sedans yet. It was a bummer because their clientele usually has deeper pockets. I put it on Cars and Bids as an experiment thinking I could set a reserve in case I did not get what I wanted with the mods. They seemed extremely interested in the car and Doug DeMuro ended up reviewing it, but they wanted me to set a stupid low reserve. We went back and forth a few times on the reserve and fortunately the offers went well over the reserve on the last day and it sold. I still felt like I gave the car away considering the cost of the mods, but that's the thing, at some point you have to swallow your pride and realize that your car is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it.
That being said, your car is truly only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. We all think our cars are worth a lot more than someone else does because we have put in all the work and we think our cars are perfect (most of us). For an eye opening experience, give your car a full detail by hand and you will notice all the little defects that you normally miss because you see the car every single day. You will start to see the little stone chips, small dents, scratches, maybe a scuff on a rim or something you have been ignoring. This will help you put your car in the right condition because most people think their car is in KBB "excellent" condition when it actually needs a few thousand dollars in reconditioning. Most cars fall under KBB "good condition" with the exception of maybe Rochester's car and my old G that we both detailed daily (hourly?) and kept stored under a climate controlled glass case in a museum when we weren't driving them. All kidding aside, KBB "good" condition is usually pretty accurate.
The good news is now that you have adjusted what you think your car's condition is, trade values are still crazy high. I just looked up KBB "good" for my old G and I swear it has gone up about $3,000 since this time last year. So hindsight is always 20/20 and had I know this would be the market now I would have waited to sell. However, I can live with that as I had a lot of fun with my Jeep Gladiator(s) off road and had I not sold it(them) when I did I would have never seen the crazy good STI Type RA unicorn that I picked up in October, so no regrets.
Another point I wanted to make was about modifications. I only modify my cars if the benefits outweigh the downside and I try to keep them subtle since styling mods are such a personal choice. If you go too far it becomes difficult to find someone with the same automotive tastes as you. I always figure if I can get back 1/4-1/2 the cost of the mods I come out ahead since I have enjoyed driving the car every single day I have had the modifications. A dealership will probably not give you much if anything extra for any modifications so you need to go private party if your car is significantly modified.
I was hoping to sell my G37S on Bring a Trailer, but even as nice as my car was and as heavily modified as it was they simply were not doing G37S sedans yet. It was a bummer because their clientele usually has deeper pockets. I put it on Cars and Bids as an experiment thinking I could set a reserve in case I did not get what I wanted with the mods. They seemed extremely interested in the car and Doug DeMuro ended up reviewing it, but they wanted me to set a stupid low reserve. We went back and forth a few times on the reserve and fortunately the offers went well over the reserve on the last day and it sold. I still felt like I gave the car away considering the cost of the mods, but that's the thing, at some point you have to swallow your pride and realize that your car is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it.
Last edited by 4DRZ; 02-12-2022 at 10:34 AM.
#30
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
A 6MT Sedan popped up a few days ago near me:
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto...456645299.html
I’ve been teeter tottering on listing mine but if his sells for his asking price…
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto...456645299.html
I’ve been teeter tottering on listing mine but if his sells for his asking price…