wannabetoughguy

By posting this my brethern can help me get to the bottom of my thoughts.

I've had the car for four years and paid it off after two. It's a 2013 G37X that I bought for $20k with 24,000 miles. It was the wife's daily up until a year and a half ago. 15 years ago I got a 2004 STi and had it for 3 1/2 years before it was stolen. It was stage 2. Before I got the G37 I bought a B5 12v for $1,700 that I put a few mods on.

I really like my car, but I bought a 10 speed 5.0 last January ($31k otd) and that now has performance springs and a really nice catback. The G37X has Megan racing springs and a 2.5" straight pipe. The G won't be as fast as the 5.0 mod for mod and I accept that. It's a different car (luxury vs muscle). The vr30 doesn't seem as reliable as the vq37hr and if I sell my g37 I will surely replace it.

Whether I keep the g37 or not I'll buy a new Z, gr86, supra, or whatever I please in a few years. In order to sell the g37 it will need close to a $1,000 of work (new bumper, pdr, stock springs and catback). With it being paid off I figure my offer from carfax would be over $10k. It has 65k and very good condition with that mileage comes in at $14k trade in value. I'd be able to pay off my credit card debt of $8k with that and probably be at an 800 credit score within a year... Even though the 5.0 isn't paid off.

As you can tell I'm conflicted here. If I keep my G37 it will get admin intakes, rims, tune, and likely a full exhaust. Probably still won't be as fast as my stock 5.0 10r80, but it will be more than what it is. I like enjoying different types of cars. I miss my 03 G35 5AT that got totalled, 97 A4, and I know that I'd miss this car. Even though vr30s have a higher ceiling they seem like more of a headache. Not only that, but by getting rid of my paid off G37X and trying to replace it with something newer or faster I'll still lose out money wise.

I'm talking out loud here and I would like for you all to put yourselves in my shoes and give me your opinions on what you would do. I felt that talking out loud would help me make the right decision. Remember, whether I keep it or not in about two years I will be able to get a new supra, Z, or whatever I please.

Ultimately, I know I will miss this car if I sell it. I'll be trying to replace it with another awd car and spend more money in the end by trying to replace it with something else. I accept that it won't be as fast mod for mod as many cars including the vr30s. As cool as owning a vr30 q50/60 sounds, I'd rather have a vq37 because it's more reliable and mine is paid off. I'll be out of credit card debt in two years if I decide to keep it anyway. Knowing that I'll miss this paid off car I lean towards keeping it.

So, put yourselves in my shoes and tell me what you'd do?

Cliffs
- Option A: sell and return paid off g37 back to stock, pay off credit card debt immediately, and have thousands left over.

- Option B: keep and go fbo, ride until the wheels fall off.

Said Amir

Since you already have a 5.0 why not just keep the G as a daily? If you are to spend more money modding it you might as well take that money and pay off your credit card debt slowly. Since you already have a fast car the 5.0 I do not see the need to make the G fast also since you will have more funds in two years to get a replacement. Once that two years come around you can trade it in, and get something different. Also, it is paid off. Rather than making payments on a new car, just take some amount and pay off your credit card. I hate to say it but at the end of the day these are depreciating assets, and I rather have you with a 800 credit score and not in debt. Also with a higher credit score you will be able to get your replacement car with a lower APR.

Options:
A) Keep the G as a daily and pay off credit card debt for the two years
B) Sell the G and pay off the credit card debt immediately

BULL

Get rid of the X before you decide to spend countless dimes. Take advantage of the offers and bring yourself out of debt.
Though I love these cars I hate AWDs non turbo vehicles, though yours is still a virgin it will deteriorate faster than you think.
The mod bug is real on these cars but it's more of an addiction than anything.

wannabetoughguy

Is it true bolt ons will decrease the longevity? A guy on mystang6g tried to tell me that gen 3 coyotes like mine will lose reliability with bolt on and a tune. I thought that only happened when going NA to FI.

The car is only going to depreciate and trade in values are at an all time high. I sold a car to carmax before and the offer was a few hundred dollars under trade in value. That car had been in a wreck too and the offer for the condition it was in was surprising.. I took that offer and feel if I don't sell it now I'll regret it. The $500-1000 it will need (cracked wind shield, stock springs, catback, pdr) seems worth it. I happen to like the high revving awd car and I pulled on a 2.5 2010-2013 wrx that was at the very least stage 2, but I wanted something bigger than this and now have it with the a10 5.0.

I had my fun and still enjoy it, but the next owner will need and enjoy it more than I currently do. I may put it for sale here in a few weeks. I'm the second owner and it has a clean carfax. 65,000 miles. I've been contradicting myself a lot, but since I'm considering selling it I feel I really should.

I wouldn't mind a new awd charger or Durango down the line as another awd car. I'd even trade the g37 for an ls1 camaro if I we're to go used. The g37 is beautiful, has a sunroof, navy, leather, and heated seats. But, I think I'm ready to move on. In some ways I already did once I got the mustang. As nice as it is it's only going to depreciate and ill take a big hit in the future.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

IMO, the best time to modify a car with bolt-ons is when it's nearly new.

So keep the G for another two years, don't put any more money into it, then trade it in and don't look back.

BULL

Yes and no. Any bolt ons will give the driver feedback and the feedback for performance parts is to test them. This test no matter how careful you'll try to be will require wide open throttle runs.
Any Wide Open Throttle even will wear the engine faster than at any other angle of throttle. A rule when doing more than 2 bolt ons is to check how your tune is doing. This is the real killer.
A more efficient engine will probably run leaner on stock programming.

wannabetoughguy

https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...d-12s-n-a.html

Does anybody know what happened to this guy? Does he still have the car? I still love this build, but with the awd and even a shorter final drive the best he could do was a 12.6 in the 1/4 mile I believe. It had a custom driveshaft and thousands in mods and imo the results we're a little disappointing. No disrespect to anyone, but I enjoyed my 03 auto g35 rwd just as much if not more than the g37x and I owned both at the same time. On rwd cars you cars you can get a shorter final drive ratio even a 4.09 which I'm sure goes a long way.

This guy's build was exciting, but now makes me realize it's not worth it in 2021 to do as much in an awd vq. He was like a pioneer though and nobody else did it, but I wonder if he still has the car and is as in love with it as he was. No disrespect to anyone things are much different now five years after the build was taking place.

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Very similar situation as yourself...almost identical. In your situation, I sold my G and paid off my debt. While I miss the G, being CC debt free is magnificent.

Ironically, I also picked up a 5.0 but a 6MT. The Coyote is stout; Mustang 6g is full of morons. It's either dudes running insane power on pump gas and wondering why their car popped or 70+ retirees who believe modding them in any way ruins their 'purity'.....like they're a female from the 1940's.

Check out Alejandro Flores on youtube for some really useful info on these cars. He's crude and rude in the livestreams but he's been around the platform for years and works for Lund. Lots of very useful information on there. He's not a fan of the Gen 3 Coyote due to the IMRC and DI but he's all about going max effort with FI. Full bolt ons and E85 is nothing for your car; your Gen 3 coyote can see 800-900whp if you mod correctly, do the correct supporting mods and get a good tune....full effort boltons, pump or E85 tune won't even make it sweat.

My Mustang is getting the FI treatment so it's not going to be my daily. I picked up a used, 197k mile, '09 Ridgeline for the DD/winter duties for nothing practically. Truck was in rough shape cosmetically and interior looks like Freddy Kruger put those 197k on it but mechanically, it was sound.

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Matt is still around but he is more on IG I believe. He still pops in now and again.

wannabetoughguy

Nice. You described the mustang forum as I saw it too. From my understanding Gen 2s are better suited for FI. If I do go FI one day I'll start with the predator block. I know very little about the platform though. Still learning and if it's FI one day it's either a Whipple or sleeper kit. The ten speed will have to be beefed up and I'll also need a daily.

Stock form is a handful with 235 tires. I have a long way to go. I might just do full exhaust, CJ, and a steeda intake. But, that's about half the cost of a blower. The car is too much for the street I will go to the track when I'm due for new tires. Modding is expensive.

Are you putting a blower on or going turbo?

I assume he still has the car. I'd probably keep it too with all the money invested. It was complete.

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Yea, Gen 2 is the best FI candidate out the box but honestly, Gen 3 is just fine if you're planning 'street' power. The 10AT will be fine under 800whp. Definitely need some wider rubber. My '16 came with the 255/275 set-up so I'm going to see what I can do with that and upgrade if the car struggles to put the power down. I also did the BMR lockout kit which really helped things out. Before that, I'd get crazy wheel hop at stock power. Personally, hoping for 600; anything more is house money.

Funny, I'm actually surprised by how much 'cheaper' the Mustang is in comparison the the G. Full 3' exhaust is 1k whereas most name brand G exhausts are a couple hundred more. Built MT is less than 4k where the 7AT is about 5k for a built unit. Not cheap by any means but even the Paxton kit is cheaper than most offerings for the G.

I've got a Paxton 2200SL that started going in today. Pre-install tear down is complete and the head unit bracket just went on. Going to install the head unit, IC and possibly the air intake unit tomorrow. Going to go with Lund for the tuning.

deep0542

iTrader: (1)

IMO; going FBO on an AWD isn't worth it. I've had an AWD g37 for 4 years, and am currently returning it back to stock to sell and take advantage of the current used car market. I recently picked up a '07 G35S 6MT Sedan; and even with the smaller engine and being 100% stock it's an entirely new world of fun. A much better platform to mod off of; although I also just picked up a Nismo 370Z- so that will be more of the car I play with.

As someone who works in the finance industry- get rid of that revolving debt ASAP. Sell the G and enjoy the 5.0; and pick up a cheap daily for the mean time. The mustang will be much cheaper to mod $/hp; and you'll see much better returns. If you truly have your heart setting on modding a G- I'd find a 6MT or RWD platform to work with.

KidJai06

I'm far from one to give financial advice, since when it comes to my car(s) I generally don't make the "ideal" financial decisions, but as another way to think about things... Add up the total monthly principle and interest you're paying on your outstanding debt(s) then calculate the total # of months it will take you to pay off the debt(s) and that is essentially what the G is costing you to keep. Then just decide whether that amount is worth it to you. If not, sell it. If so, keep it.

Another thought is take a look around the house or garage, do you have spare parts, collectibles, or generally sellable items that you are less attached to than the car... if so consider selling those things to put toward your debt instead. That's generally been my path.

wannabetoughguy

Thanks for sharing. The infiniti is paid off and my credit card debt is just over $8,000. I'd probably pay off the card in less than two years anyways, but I could immediately. That's part of the reason why I want to sell the car also because as much as I like it, I can get the most for trade in value now.

I went to carmax today just to ask a few questions about selling. I did so before, but I was bored. They said leaving the limo tint on there won't effect trade in value and the small hole in the bumper isn't worth fixing to them. I'll take pictures if it cost me around $500 to put a new bumper and paint it i might just do that.

The car will need the stock catback, springs, chrome trim on the cupholder, pdr, new windshield, and some touch up on the paint. I think all of that will cost me close to $1,000, but if it's going to get me the most for my trade in it's worth it. Trade in value is $14,200 for an awd car my year and mileage in very good condition. I'm expecting an offer between $10-14k. I sold a v6 mustang that got hit by a deer and had an aftermarket radio and the offer was a few hundred dollars under the estimated trade in value. I took that offer.

The car also has some scratches on a wheel or two, but I'm going back to stock and just see what they offer me. I think it's worth it just to know. I'll be posting progress pics and the offer in about a month from now.

wannabetoughguy

Congrats on the nismo. The Z is about 200-300 lighter than a G37 sedan and a G37X model is 38xx pounds. I'd choose a Z to mod just based on it being the lightest, but to each their own. It appears that a shorter final drive goes a long way which you can't do on a G37X without a custom driveshaft and new front and rear different. Even still I believe the shortest ratio you can go is 3.69.

If I somehow end up keeping mine it will only get lightweight wheels, admin intakes, z1 ported manifold, test pipes,, and an ISR catback. I still really like these cars, but a Z and even rwd sedan will always have me on power to weight ratio.