2013 G37 XS overheating
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
2013 G37 XS overheating
I’m sure you guys will probably refer me to older threads as this seems like it’s a recurring problem with these cars but I might as well ask anyways.
Car has been overheating at idle. Has 97,600 miles on it. Goes all the way to Hot. Sometimes it fluctuates above half while I’m driving it. I’ve done the thermostat, changed hoses, coolant flush. No service engine lights on either. Both fans work.
Car drives normal. I’ve had a couple people suggest taking out the thermostat all together to see if that rectifies the issue.
Car has been overheating at idle. Has 97,600 miles on it. Goes all the way to Hot. Sometimes it fluctuates above half while I’m driving it. I’ve done the thermostat, changed hoses, coolant flush. No service engine lights on either. Both fans work.
Car drives normal. I’ve had a couple people suggest taking out the thermostat all together to see if that rectifies the issue.
#2
Registered Member
Is it a genuine Nissan thermostat? Idk how Nissan rolls...but with Honda's, if you go with an aftermarket thermostat, you can be about 90% sure it will overheat.
Or maybe you've still got air in the system. Did you bleed it per the FSM?
I'm assuming you used a compatible coolant, mixed properly? I always use pre-mix because buying distilled water and mixing it like some sort of scientist is a hassle (you can't use tap water).
Is the coolant leaking or "disappearing"?
Or maybe you've still got air in the system. Did you bleed it per the FSM?
I'm assuming you used a compatible coolant, mixed properly? I always use pre-mix because buying distilled water and mixing it like some sort of scientist is a hassle (you can't use tap water).
Is the coolant leaking or "disappearing"?
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Is it a genuine Nissan thermostat? Idk how Nissan rolls...but with Honda's, if you go with an aftermarket thermostat, you can be about 90% sure it will overheat.
Or maybe you've still got air in the system. Did you bleed it per the FSM?
I'm assuming you used a compatible coolant, mixed properly? I always use pre-mix because buying distilled water and mixing it like some sort of scientist is a hassle (you can't use tap water).
Is the coolant leaking or "disappearing"?
Or maybe you've still got air in the system. Did you bleed it per the FSM?
I'm assuming you used a compatible coolant, mixed properly? I always use pre-mix because buying distilled water and mixing it like some sort of scientist is a hassle (you can't use tap water).
Is the coolant leaking or "disappearing"?
No leaks, used the correct coolant, bled properly. The thermostat is actually duralast.
#4
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Is it a genuine Nissan thermostat? Idk how Nissan rolls...but with Honda's, if you go with an aftermarket thermostat, you can be about 90% sure it will overheat.
Or maybe you've still got air in the system. Did you bleed it per the FSM?
I'm assuming you used a compatible coolant, mixed properly? I always use pre-mix because buying distilled water and mixing it like some sort of scientist is a hassle (you can't use tap water).
Is the coolant leaking or "disappearing"?
Or maybe you've still got air in the system. Did you bleed it per the FSM?
I'm assuming you used a compatible coolant, mixed properly? I always use pre-mix because buying distilled water and mixing it like some sort of scientist is a hassle (you can't use tap water).
Is the coolant leaking or "disappearing"?
thinking it’s the fan because the issue doesn’t happen while driving. It happens usually when car is idling
#5
If it's that hot, you should hear the fan on full blast at idle. Given your recent overhauls, I bet it is a fan failure.
#6
Registered Member
Thread Starter
now car isn’t accelerating and driving sluggish. This is a nightmare lol..
#7
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
While driving at speed the fans typically will not come on as there is sufficient air flow across the radiator to dissipate heat. Alternatively, when the vehicle is not moving, the fans will come on- as needed- to move air across the radiator. When you are overheating, BOTH FANS should be running at FULL BLAST. It will be a loud roar.
Easy way to test the fans is to run the IPDM/er self-diagnostic function: IPDM/ER SELF TEST
In my case the fans were barely turning at all causing me to run hot when stopped at a red light, drive thru, etc.
Easy way to test the fans is to run the IPDM/er self-diagnostic function: IPDM/ER SELF TEST
In my case the fans were barely turning at all causing me to run hot when stopped at a red light, drive thru, etc.
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#8
Registered Member
Thread Starter
While driving at speed the fans typically will not come on as there is sufficient air flow across the radiator to dissipate heat. Alternatively, when the vehicle is not moving, the fans will come on- as needed- to move air across the radiator. When you are overheating, BOTH FANS should be running at FULL BLAST. It will be a loud roar.
Easy way to test the fans is to run the IPDM/er self-diagnostic function: IPDM/ER SELF TEST
In my case the fans were barely turning at all causing me to run hot when stopped at a red light, drive thru, etc.
Easy way to test the fans is to run the IPDM/er self-diagnostic function: IPDM/ER SELF TEST
In my case the fans were barely turning at all causing me to run hot when stopped at a red light, drive thru, etc.
Quite sure it’s my fans. They come on when car is moving and when I idle the gauge always is going up now. Any recommendations on fans to use or only oem? Is Dorman acceptable?
#9
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
The fan control module is also something that is known to be problematic on these cars. Fortunately it's cheap and easy to replace those.
In my case the fans were running all the damn time, even when the engine is stone cold and A/C was off. The control module was the culprit.
In my case the fans were running all the damn time, even when the engine is stone cold and A/C was off. The control module was the culprit.
#10
Registered Member
Thread Starter
The fan control module is also something that is known to be problematic on these cars. Fortunately it's cheap and easy to replace those.
In my case the fans were running all the damn time, even when the engine is stone cold and A/C was off. The control module was the culprit.
In my case the fans were running all the damn time, even when the engine is stone cold and A/C was off. The control module was the culprit.
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JG37XS (10-05-2020)
#12
Registered Member
I’m sure you guys will probably refer me to older threads as this seems like it’s a recurring problem with these cars but I might as well ask anyways.
Car has been overheating at idle. Has 97,600 miles on it. Goes all the way to Hot. Sometimes it fluctuates above half while I’m driving it. I’ve done the thermostat, changed hoses, coolant flush. No service engine lights on either. Both fans work.
Car drives normal. I’ve had a couple people suggest taking out the thermostat all together to see if that rectifies the issue.
Car has been overheating at idle. Has 97,600 miles on it. Goes all the way to Hot. Sometimes it fluctuates above half while I’m driving it. I’ve done the thermostat, changed hoses, coolant flush. No service engine lights on either. Both fans work.
Car drives normal. I’ve had a couple people suggest taking out the thermostat all together to see if that rectifies the issue.
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...an/2013/CO.pdf
See page CO-7 for troubleshooting analysis.
Could be something simple like a defective radiator cap or a loose belt?
Or clogged radiator or a defective water pump and thermostat?
Good luck
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JG37XS (10-05-2020)
#13
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Thread Starter
Last edited by JG37XS; 10-01-2020 at 08:01 PM.
#14
Registered Member
Thread Starter
So, we went over everything. It’s not the fans.
Coolant level was low but no visible leaks. Bled the system
Also oil didn’t have coolant in it. Just replaced radiator cap.
Kind of thinking the worst, but hopefully this is the remedy.
Coolant level was low but no visible leaks. Bled the system
Also oil didn’t have coolant in it. Just replaced radiator cap.
Kind of thinking the worst, but hopefully this is the remedy.
#15
Registered Member
I had a 2010 G37 coupe and it did the exact same thing to me. I had to take off the radiator cap, run the car for a few minutes (yes, you will spill a little bit of coolant) and let some of the air bubbles work their way out.
This seems like a very common problem and I haven't seen a sure fire way of rectifying it. But that's the best way I found to DIY it without paying a shop to do basically the same thing. If you do take it to a shop, make sure it's a reputable one so you get your money's worth.
This seems like a very common problem and I haven't seen a sure fire way of rectifying it. But that's the best way I found to DIY it without paying a shop to do basically the same thing. If you do take it to a shop, make sure it's a reputable one so you get your money's worth.