Some major work is unavoidable
#16
Registered Member
Good advice. Cat shield rattle is an inevitability on every car. I've lost count on the number of cars I've ripped off a rattling cat shield. (Well... OK, maybe six in the last 30 years.)
AFAIK, the only reason a catalytic converter would start rattling internally is if the catalyst material was damaged by the engine running rich for way too long. So if the OP owned the car since new, has had regular maintenance, and never ran the car for extended periods with a CEL where it just wasn't running right, odds are the cats are fine and it's the shields which are making the noise.
AFAIK, the only reason a catalytic converter would start rattling internally is if the catalyst material was damaged by the engine running rich for way too long. So if the OP owned the car since new, has had regular maintenance, and never ran the car for extended periods with a CEL where it just wasn't running right, odds are the cats are fine and it's the shields which are making the noise.
The following users liked this post:
Lynn49 (05-28-2020)
#17
1200-1500???? Not here in California.... all my quotes were 3500+ (non dealership).. 1200 is a steal and something I would pay every day of the week (twice on sunday). I've had 2 gallery gaskets fail on me... realistically buying a lower milage engine is waaaaaaaay cheaper than having someone try to fix it. when the 2nd gallery gasket went on the 2nd engine I said forget it. lets attack the problem. The problem is the weak paper gallery gaskets put in the engines by Nissan. so I tore my engine apart and and changed it out. Now i'll never have to worry about it again. the upgraded non paper gallery gaskets are like 40 bucks. well worth the money. i'll never have to worry about it again. ive been posting my progress in the coupe section of "what did you do to your car today" if you wanna check out some pictures. my out of pocket cost is like 40 bucks for the gray gasket stuff, and the new gaskets.. the kit comes with better bolts as well.
In CA, the rent is too expensive though, so I guess the shops need to charge much higher to cover their rent payments. That sucks for people man.
The following users liked this post:
Lynn49 (05-28-2020)
#18
Registered Member
In GA, most shops that work on Nissan and Infiniti will change the gallery gasket for only $400 - $ 600 (Z1, TS1 Autoworks, Royalty Performance, Countersteer llc, Southern Motorworks, etc.) If you bought parts by yourself, Z1 Mortorposrt has all of them. I'm lucky to be in GA, so I can just go to Z1 (like almost 1 hr of driving lol) to pick up all of the parts to avoid the shipping fee. The OEM water pump is only like $70, the gallery gasket is like $20, and the timing chain kit is like $400. So yea, the total comes out to be in the range of $1,200 - $1,500.
In CA, the rent is too expensive though, so I guess the shops need to charge much higher to cover their rent payments. That sucks for people man.
In CA, the rent is too expensive though, so I guess the shops need to charge much higher to cover their rent payments. That sucks for people man.
wverything is expensive in California ... I get taxed when buying stuff,.. they tax my paycheck... then I owe money when I have to pay my taxes.... it’s terrible. Soon as my son turns 18 I’m moving to Texas.
The following users liked this post:
Lee Nguyen (05-21-2020)
#19
Move to Georgia, we are chilling over here . Houses aren't that expensive compared to Texas .
#20
Banned
iTrader: (1)
To OP, it's probably just your shields making the rattling noise. You can pinpoint the sound when you turn it on. Also, just maintain the car. If everything works, it works. Don't be out looking for trouble because you will find it.
The following users liked this post:
Lynn49 (05-28-2020)
#21
Registered Member
Thread Starter
#22
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Good advice. Cat shield rattle is an inevitability on every car. I've lost count on the number of cars I've ripped off a rattling cat shield. (Well... OK, maybe six in the last 30 years.)
AFAIK, the only reason a catalytic converter would start rattling internally is if the catalyst material was damaged by the engine running rich for way too long. So if the OP owned the car since new, has had regular maintenance, and never ran the car for extended periods with a CEL where it just wasn't running right, odds are the cats are fine and it's the shields which are making the noise.
AFAIK, the only reason a catalytic converter would start rattling internally is if the catalyst material was damaged by the engine running rich for way too long. So if the OP owned the car since new, has had regular maintenance, and never ran the car for extended periods with a CEL where it just wasn't running right, odds are the cats are fine and it's the shields which are making the noise.
#23
Registered Member
Thread Starter
If I had a nickel for every Californian I hear say that, I would be rich. Many don't even move and those who do move to Texas come crying back a year later because of the humidity, bugs, and storms. I see so many Texas plates in California now because y'all are moving back. It's not really the rent that makes shops charge so much, it's the industry as a whole in this state that is so toxic. I've lived in the South and some work was a quarter of the cost they charge in Cali. In Cali though, one shop wanted to charge $600 to wrap my sun visors in suede that I already brought, no thanks. Another wanted to charge $1000 to paint my front bumper. Insanity. I only go to shops for paint, and alignments. That's it.
To OP, it's probably just your shields making the rattling noise. You can pinpoint the sound when you turn it on. Also, just maintain the car. If everything works, it works. Don't be out looking for trouble because you will find it.
To OP, it's probably just your shields making the rattling noise. You can pinpoint the sound when you turn it on. Also, just maintain the car. If everything works, it works. Don't be out looking for trouble because you will find it.
#24
Registered Member
Where are you? In Georgia, many shops will do all of that for under $1,000 of labor, so the total may come out around $1,200 - $1,500 without the cats, so with cats it may be close to $2,000. Just replace everything in there while you have it opens, including the galley gaskets. IMO, after replacing all of that, you will be good until 300,000 miles. Also, if you swapped another engine in, you still would have to replace these parts eventually, so there are no points to waste money on another engine if this engine is still good. However, if the car, in general, is already in bad shape like rusty, dents, broken parts, or leaking everything everywhere, then you should buy a new car.
IMO, the VQ37VHR is a very good engine, so with basic maintenance such as oil change for every 4,000 - 5,000 miles, coolant and transmission fluid change for every 60,000 miles, it should last as long as a Lexus. I have seen many G35 and G37 with over 200,000 miles or even more than 300,000 miles, and they are still running very well.
IMO, the VQ37VHR is a very good engine, so with basic maintenance such as oil change for every 4,000 - 5,000 miles, coolant and transmission fluid change for every 60,000 miles, it should last as long as a Lexus. I have seen many G35 and G37 with over 200,000 miles or even more than 300,000 miles, and they are still running very well.
#25
Registered Member
Timing chain replacement
Timing BELTS need regular replacement. For sure. Likie Toyota used to use.
But unless the chain is stretched, or some other timing insult has occurred like worn gears, it should just GO AND GO. If you've changed oil and filter regularly, that chain has been well protected from wear and corrosion.
"Timing belts require routine replacement—timing chains do not." So says => https://www.carparts.com/blog/when-t...-timing-chain/
BUT -even if you are experiencing weird engine codes relating to timing, or poor operation, etc - then maybe. I would look elsewhere first- sensors, sensor wiring, etc.
Do you do oil analysis when you change your oil? If you have increasing iron content in your used oil, valve train wear (including the timing chain) can be the source. It's good to keep an eye on iron in your oil, it can tell you some things about your engine. Not so much how much iron is in the used oil- as long as it's below what's considered a warning sign- but whether is has started to increase markedly. Blackstone Labs will do your oil for not a whole lot of money, check them out. BESIDES having your oil analyzed will give you something cool to talk to your pals about.
I think it's typical for a timing chain that needs replacement to show some kind of sign rather than just letting go all at once out of the blue - unless you use your car on the track.
NOW- the WATER PUMP - hmmm... I do not know how long those last in the G. I know that in general they do occasionally need replacement in internal combustion engines. But, again, the Enlightened are given a Sign.... coolant leaking from the engine, horrible bearing noise / wobbling pulley, overheating engine.... this is your Honorable Water Pump telling you it is time to bring in Replacement-San.
But unless the chain is stretched, or some other timing insult has occurred like worn gears, it should just GO AND GO. If you've changed oil and filter regularly, that chain has been well protected from wear and corrosion.
"Timing belts require routine replacement—timing chains do not." So says => https://www.carparts.com/blog/when-t...-timing-chain/
BUT -even if you are experiencing weird engine codes relating to timing, or poor operation, etc - then maybe. I would look elsewhere first- sensors, sensor wiring, etc.
Do you do oil analysis when you change your oil? If you have increasing iron content in your used oil, valve train wear (including the timing chain) can be the source. It's good to keep an eye on iron in your oil, it can tell you some things about your engine. Not so much how much iron is in the used oil- as long as it's below what's considered a warning sign- but whether is has started to increase markedly. Blackstone Labs will do your oil for not a whole lot of money, check them out. BESIDES having your oil analyzed will give you something cool to talk to your pals about.
I think it's typical for a timing chain that needs replacement to show some kind of sign rather than just letting go all at once out of the blue - unless you use your car on the track.
NOW- the WATER PUMP - hmmm... I do not know how long those last in the G. I know that in general they do occasionally need replacement in internal combustion engines. But, again, the Enlightened are given a Sign.... coolant leaking from the engine, horrible bearing noise / wobbling pulley, overheating engine.... this is your Honorable Water Pump telling you it is time to bring in Replacement-San.
The following users liked this post:
MStrike (09-17-2020)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
heedtheninja67
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
9
06-30-2024 10:09 AM
Bahoni
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
21
07-16-2022 02:01 AM
Primo55
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
20
03-24-2016 10:23 AM