fred_durst

2011 G37x Sedan 115K miles

Rear passengers door lock actuator appears to have failed. I am looking to do a repair and surprised there is very little information online. I did find one video on youtube for the drivers door which appeared way more complicated than required.

I also noted that the replacement parts online are very expensive $300 and up. Also saw some refurbished parts on eBay for about $100.

Does anyone have any guidance or experience or video to assist?

Thanks in advance.

13_SkylineSedan

This?
https://www.discountinfinitiparts.co...bC12Ni1nYXM%3D

Not unlocking with the other doors? As in, the outside handle won't open the door after unlocking the car? You know about the "child lock" thing that disables the inside handle, right? If it operates manually, (manually unlocking allows you to open from either side) but not electronically, then first take a look at the wires that pass through the rubber boot into the door to be sure they're not frayed or broken.

fred_durst

Thank you for the reply. In answer to your questions and some additional information.

3 of the 4 doors lock/unlock using the key FOB and buttons inside the car. I can manually move the lock/unlock **** near the inside door handle and the door can then be opened. I have no issues/problems using the door handle either inside or outside the car.
Yes, I am aware of the child lock feature.

When I actuate the door lock/unlock electronically all doors make a noise, the suspect door makes a bit of an odd noise near the actuator location.

From my research the link you posted appears to be the part required.

Does anyone have videos or photos of the repair. Does anyone have experience with the remanufactured units off eBay?

infinitiG37

I ordered a used part from eBay. It was under 100. My outer door latch cable broke on the driver side.
heres a video from YouTube that will give you an idea how it’s done.

-Red-

I just replaced mine about 3 months ago with a part bought on ebay, only to have to do it again a month later. There was a decent variety available on ebay at the time. I went with one which ran about $45. I installed it, and overall it worked, although I should have known I was on borrowed time as it made a whining sound when it engaged. It lasted about a month then died. Considering the price of a new one, I opted to take another chance on another part from ebay. This one ran me about $65. It was in a noticeably better shape than the first one and is much quieter when it engages.

Overall, getting at the door lock was fairly straightforward, albeit a little time consuming Getting the door handle out was slightly painful. It took a little bit as I was getting paranoid that if I twist it too hard, I could break something, so I had to take my time. The biggest challenge was removing the old actuator. It has a little weight to it and just the right size where trying to manipulate it while still inside the door is not easy (at least it wasn't for me) I don't know if anyone has found a better way, but after trying to angle it a bunch of different ways to get it out of the door, I ended up having to loosen up the closest window track to finally remove it.

Overall, if you're mechanically inclined, once you remove the door panel, you'll be able to figure it out, just pay attention to how the cables are positioned and be careful trying to extract the old actuator and you'll be ok.

wesleyboyle

Whenever you face lock failure issues, contact an auto locksmith in your area. They can help you to fix that issue.

DonaldMoore

Thank you so much for your replies, it will help me in fixing the door lock issue without hiring any locksmith.

droc

I just did all 4 doors on a sport sedan in one shot. The video above is a great help for the front doors. The front passenger door is the same minus the manual key rod step. I was a little intimidated going in esp. about removing the glass but it went in/out pretty easily. The door handles were also simple to remove and install, but you can bypass that step if you reuse that cable and switch it to the replacement actuator. Then all you have to do is swap the actuator but to get at it you still have to remove the speaker + glass before the door plate can come off. The most time consuming part was figuring out how to open some of the connectors.

I had no info on the rears. When you pull the door panel off there is clear plastic covering a couple of access holes so you don't have to remove the glass. As "Red" stated above, removing the old actuator in that space was impossible without loosening the bolt into the window channel which allowed you to slip the actuator underneath and slide the cables through under the window channel. Back in the same way. 2nd rear was much easier once that was figured out. I'd give yourself 2 hours per door worst case but they go much quicker after the first.

I bought them refrub on ebay for about 100 per and they seem excellent.
Feel free to ask me any questions you have.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

/closed

These threads are bait for locksmith bot trolls.

I have no idea why "locksmith" threads are like this, but here we are again. Member "KevinDane" has been permanently banned, whether they're a real person or not. (Probably not... sigh)