Rusty Front Cross Beam (AWD)
#1
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Rusty Front Cross Beam (AWD)
Successfully completed a power steering rack replacement for my '09 G37XS. Part of that operation required the removal of the front cross beam. Mine was very rusty and upon removing the flakes I found two large holes! Chicago winters and salt are hard on a car but this garage kept car (home and work) rust surprised me. New parts are $600+. Car has $110k miles
Can;t seem to find a used part. I'm thinking of bringing it to a welder and having them do $50 worth of work to make it sound but not pretty, I've never gone junkyard picking. Have any of you had luck?
Anyone with similar issues?
Pictures
Brian
Can;t seem to find a used part. I'm thinking of bringing it to a welder and having them do $50 worth of work to make it sound but not pretty, I've never gone junkyard picking. Have any of you had luck?
Anyone with similar issues?
Pictures
Brian
#3
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Decided to get it welded up. Went to a local place that charges $70/hour expecting it to be about an hours worth of work. They were backed up two weeks so I ended up paying $200 to get it done within two hours.
Installed it and both of the outer bolts on the ends of the cross bar are stripped. FSM says 63 ft-lbs and I set the torque wrench at 60. New thread will be started on that.
Brian
Installed it and both of the outer bolts on the ends of the cross bar are stripped. FSM says 63 ft-lbs and I set the torque wrench at 60. New thread will be started on that.
Brian
#4
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Forgot that the torque reading in the FSM is NM and the second number in the bracket it Ft-lbs. the right torque was 46 ft lbs (63 NM) and I used 63 ft lbs.
Dumbass.
Brian
Dumbass.
Brian
#8
Registered Member
Thread Starter
I cleaned it with lacquer thinner and then primed and pained it. On the RHS of the beam air conditioning condensation keeps the area wet which is why I think it rusted so quickly. Not my best work but I needed to drive it!
Have a rust bubble forming on the body at the seam where the rear quarter meets the part of the bumper that wraps around right behind the rear wheel. If only I didn't live in an area that needed to use salt in the winter. At 110k miles and would like to get to 150K without a big nasty cancerous hole in the body.
Brian
Have a rust bubble forming on the body at the seam where the rear quarter meets the part of the bumper that wraps around right behind the rear wheel. If only I didn't live in an area that needed to use salt in the winter. At 110k miles and would like to get to 150K without a big nasty cancerous hole in the body.
Brian
#9
I have the same cross beam rust issue. It really seems to be the first thing that starts to rust on the underbody.
My plan was to replace it with a megan H-brace when it starts looking really bad. Can anyone chime in on if it installs over the cross beam or is it a replacement?
My plan was to replace it with a megan H-brace when it starts looking really bad. Can anyone chime in on if it installs over the cross beam or is it a replacement?
#11
Alright so after doing some research it looks like I gotta 86 the Megan H-brace idea. Their brace and similar braces like Soul Function D-brace are only designed for the RWD model. I plan on doing something similar to OP, probably getting a wrecking yard brace in good condition and powdercoating it.
#14
Premier Member
Oh man now when I go to the scrap I will be looking for a better one and also you guys need to check the differential cover mine is rusting fml
#15
I assume you never had the car oil sprayed? I’m in the midst of getting a 2013 and here in Ontario the salt is nasty. First thing I’ll do is polish up paint, wax, clear bra then oil spray. Every car I have done that to has remained in excellent condition.
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SlimTV (02-11-2021)